Sludge concerns

Originally Posted by willbur
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Synthetics last longer
Synthetics keep engines cleaner
Synthetics protect engines better in extreme cold and hot weather.

But hey, you seem to have already talked yourself in sticking with conventional. So enjoy and hope it works out well for you.


But hey- you're funny.
I don't see how you assume I talked myself into using conventional. I simply asked a question. And what ppl thought of the Blackstone assertion. I use synthetic. It seems you are making claims about synthetic and talked yourself into using it. The Blackstone guy is basing his opinion on the results of 10000's of oil analyses while you just have an opinion.
There once was a GM powertrain engineer that(banned on this forum) was very familiar with lubrication of high performance engines. He claimed synthetic was really only necessary if oil temp exceeded 305f or for cold starting.
Now go and check out the latest oil bottles at WM


My Dad was a GM engineer for 45 years.....in manufacturing for turbine engines and transmissions, at Allison Gas Turbine, and Allison Transmission. He had a different opinion and ran Mobil 1 in his cars and trucks. He knew and worked directly with chemical engineers from Exxon Mobil, among others. That said, he would have also told you there is nothing wrong with a good major brand conventional oil. He ran synthetic because it simply performed better, and cleaner, in extremes. There are places in the engine that can get to extreme temperatures. That's where sludge is more likely to begin. He went synthetic because it was much less likely to break down or sludge, and he kept his cars for a long time. There was a time when he didn't keep them more than a year or two. He used the cheapest oil that met spec in those. Usually Valvoline white bottle or PYB.

I'd bet most powertrain engineers that are gearheads run full synthetic. I'd be shocked to hear otherwise. That said, I think today's conventional oils probably have a good deal of group III in them, to meet more demanding specs, so they probably perform very well.
 
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Originally Posted by Amkeer
I have been changing my oils at 10000 mile intervals for 17 years using Mobil 1. The vehicles are in the normal service category. All the motors are extremely clean and use very little oil between the changes. I keep my vehicles for as long as possible and maintenance is important.

Mhy exact words except in my case it's 42 years not 17. Great post.
thankyou2.gif
 
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Originally Posted by clinebarger
The GM 3.6L is DI & beats the snot out of oil, The GM 2.4L DI does the same. Everyone of these engine I've ever opened up looked at the very least "charred".


That was my thoughts too and is a factor the extended OCI posters in this thread are neglecting. This engine is DI and for what ever reason, DI seems to blacken the engine oil quickly. More so on some DI engines than others.

Regardless, I'd love to know why fuel being injected downstream vs. upstream of the intake valves makes so much of a difference on the engine oil! I still battle this with the new to us 2019 Nissan Pathfinder with a DI 3.5 to the point I hate going beyind 3000mi between OCIs and I used to be a 5000-7000 guy.
 
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Originally Posted by willbur
Originally Posted by BMWTurboDzl
Originally Posted by willbur
Greetings-
Interesting topic. Easy to understand BITOG recommendations to go with synthetic oil. However, there is a video of an recent interview (posted on this forum) of a Blackstone Labs manager by a Saab forum moderator where he states there is no difference between "conventional" oil and "synthetic" in engine longevity. Since this is based on analysis of many 1000's of oil samples, does his opinion have validity regarding these oils?



I suspect context is missing. There is no difference when you're following an appropriate change interval for the oil choice. On a 3k or perhaps 5k oci you'll see no wear difference between a synthetic and a conventional. The price premium for synthetic is with regards time/miles in use. Synthetic can go much longer before it needs to be changed. That's the point of synthetics. They're designed for long drain intervals.


Engine longevity is somewhat of a catch all term. What does that even mean? Does that mean without having to perform any repairs on the engine aside from gaskets and non-lubricant related components OR does that mean until all compression is lost or the bearings go out?.


He was referring to wear metals, I believe. Gotta dig up that video and see what else

UOAs are not a tool to measure wear, they are for measuring the health of the oil. Many examples of UOAs not detecting a problem, yet the engine grenades. Also, unless teardowns are performed to measure the actual wear, I am struggling to see how there is no difference between the two oil types.
 
Originally Posted by Number_35
We used the OLM on my last work truck (2013 Chevy Silverado 2500 6.0 4WD) to determine service intervals. The truck had typically racked up about 10,000 km (c. 6000 miles) by the time the OLM got down to 10%.

It's interesting to hear of these 10K mile OLMs on US vehicles; the difference is likely due to our cold weather, and how our truck did a fair number of short trips.



The GM OLM does work well in cold weather. The last 4 years we were doing a lot of baby sitting with the Grandkids and short trips with two vehicles. It would go down to 5% after
6000 km ( 3600 miles) of winter weather.
 
Originally Posted by Amkeer
I have been changing my oils at 10000 mile intervals for 17 years using Mobil 1. The vehicles are in the normal service category. All the motors are extremely clean and use very little oil between the changes. I keep my vehicles for as long as possible and maintenance is important.


Attaboy. Bob would be proud of you
 
As an update, I've developed a pretty bad lifter tick. Not sure what the next course of action is. I'm running Seafoam for now. Will probably reduce my OCI to 7000 miles. Let's see what the Seafoam does.
 
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