Silverado cold start lifter tick

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: Mossyoakglock
AFM is off. Has been off since about 50k.


You need to do more than turn it off; you need to delete it entirely and replace it with normal lifters.
 
I would love to replace everything related AFM but this is my only vehicle and I don't really have the time to get into that.

Somebody mentioned a thicker oil. Does that mean go with a 10w-30 or thicker 5W-30? If I went with a 10w-30 would that mean that it won't bleed back down as easily?

Wouldn't I want a thinner 5W-30 (with low CCS & MRV) so it reaches the top of the motor faster?
 
I was comparing Pennzoil PP 5W-30 and 10W-30 and noticed that the 10W has lower MRV numbers. Is that common for a thicker oil to have a lower number than a thinner one?

I might be way off but I'm still learning what everything means when it comes to oil and specs. The lower the CCS and MRV numbers, the better/easier it flows when cold?
 
Originally Posted By: Mossyoakglock
I would love to replace everything related AFM but this is my only vehicle and I don't really have the time to get into that.

Somebody mentioned a thicker oil. Does that mean go with a 10w-30 or thicker 5W-30? If I went with a 10w-30 would that mean that it won't bleed back down as easily?

Wouldn't I want a thinner 5W-30 (with low CCS & MRV) so it reaches the top of the motor faster?


Not sure what your owner's manual says for oil requirments, but my 2006 Colorado specs 5W-30 that meets GM 6094M[low temp pumpability]. The only HM oil I have been able to find that meets both specs is Valvoline Max-Life Blend. $17/ 5qt on Amazon Prime.
 
Originally Posted By: Mossyoakglock
I was comparing Pennzoil PP 5W-30 and 10W-30 and noticed that the 10W has lower MRV numbers. Is that common for a thicker oil to have a lower number than a thinner one?

I might be way off but I'm still learning what everything means when it comes to oil and specs. The lower the CCS and MRV numbers, the better/easier it flows when cold?


Sorry, but this is still a positive displacement pump. SO as long as the oil is liquid (vs freezing - gellation), it's all going to pump at the same speed. There is no faster to the top, or anywhere else involving the pump ...

Sling and splash oil will be a bit different. But not a whole lot either.

Yes, a filter can make a difference in that the anti-drain-back-valve does not seal as well. Silicon rubber valves are the best, so that's Napa Gold (WIX), Fram Ultra, Baldwin, etc. If you get cold start lifter tick, that's the first check, swap in another filter with known good ADBV.

Next is a can of BG109 or KREEN for 100 miles before the next oil change. If that fixes it, it was a tad of varnish build-up in the lifter. If not, it's something else.

I'd run spec oil, or if veering off spec, I'd go 0W-30 and see if that helps ...
 
Last edited:
I'm currently running a Wix filter but will give a Fram Ultra a try. What material ADBV is the PF48/48E? I still have a few 48's lying around that I snagged before they were phased out.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Mossyoakglock
I just checked online and PP HM meets the spec too. GM6094M


But find it for $17/5 qts....
21.gif
 
Last edited:
Since one reason for the cold start lifter tick is oil draining and the lifters being "dry," would Castrol Magnatec 5W-30 help with keeping the oil on the lifter and it not being dry, therefore eliminating the tick? The Magnatec is supposed to cling to the metal so I would think that it would cling to the lifter and not drain down as much.

I found it at the store today and it's the first time I've seen it locally.

It's numbers are similar to all the other 5w-30's except the CCSV and MRV numbers just show the max and not the actual values.

Thoughts on the Castrol GTX Magnatec Full Synthetic?
 
Originally Posted By: krismoriah72
There are 1000s if not 10s of thousands of posts/threads about this on the net...i have read about 500 of them and gave up lol. Basically if you have a 5.3 you just get used to it.

There are claims of running atf, berrymans and lucas that 'fixed' the problem.. I have 230K on my 2003 and have a buddy that has a 2005 with 425K both have same ticking... but it just seems to be a noise to these great engines.




This-it's a very common issue. Also-GM sells over 40,000 trucks a month (Silverado/Sierra combined) and a very small percentage have had AFM issues. The Internet makes it sound like there are lines miles long waiting for warranty work on the motor due to AFM issues-simply NOT TRUE.
 
tick thread

The oil with the best cold qualities is redline, check your tech sheets and check out the cold flow oil tests on youtube if you need a visual. But even better then it's cold flow ability is what it does to ticks due to the formulation. Maybe another oil could help, but if it is possible for an oil to help it Redline would be the best at it. We have been testing this for 5 years in the ram forum, the only oil with a high success rate at getting the ticks out, redline.

The royal purple filter is a high flow high efficiency filter, nothing is close except it's clone filter. filter test

Trouble yourself to read that filter post fully, I can't believe people use paper filters after seeing that test. Spun Microglass leaves literally no contamination at 30 microns rolling around, PLUS they flow better. gl with your tick
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
You need to do more than turn it off; you need to delete it entirely and replace it with normal lifters.


+1 to what this guy says.
 
Originally Posted By: burla
The oil with the best cold qualities is redline, check your tech sheets and check out the cold flow oil tests on youtube if you need a visual.

I have no problems with Red Line, but their cold numbers are unremarkable within grade, which is no surprise, because they're not really ILSAC oils. Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 spanks Red Line 5w-30 when it comes to cold cranking values.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: burla
The oil with the best cold qualities is redline, check your tech sheets and check out the cold flow oil tests on youtube if you need a visual.

I have no problems with Red Line, but their cold numbers are unremarkable within grade, which is no surprise, because they're not really ILSAC oils. Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 spanks Red Line 5w-30 when it comes to cold cranking values.


I wasn't aware of that? I thought, from what I have seen, that Redline poured pretty good in the cold? Maybe it does, but you're saying PP is a lot better? What about PUP 5W-30, I assume the same thing or better?

My wife's Impala fired up great this morning but I wasn't in it to watch oil pressure as I started it remotely from inside the warmth of the house. It is -26 C here this morning.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Mossyoakglock
I was comparing Pennzoil PP 5W-30 and 10W-30 and noticed that the 10W has lower MRV numbers. Is that common for a thicker oil to have a lower number than a thinner one?

I might be way off but I'm still learning what everything means when it comes to oil and specs. The lower the CCS and MRV numbers, the better/easier it flows when cold?


You'll want to check the temperature. The MRV for the 5w-30 will be an additional 5C lower than the 10w-30. You can roughly double the MRV for the 10W-30 to get an idea of what it should be at the lower temperature to be comparable to the 5w-30. You can do the same for CCS. Conversely, you can halve both those numbers for the 5w-30 to compare them to the 10w-30 ones.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top