Rusted brake line replacement - '03 Monte Carlo

[92saturnsl2]

Wonder if anyone here has experience in replacing rusted out brake lines-- specifically regarding difficulty, ballpark labor/parts cost, or anything else that might be helpful.

My dad brought me his car to sell- he had a slight fender bender (no damage to car(s), but miraculously the non-fault driver claims whiplash!) when his brakes went out while slowing to a stop (5mph or so). After looking at it, the passenger front line rusted out and is leaking. The left front is not far behind, and the rears are in only slightly better shape. I do all my own work on my cars, so I'm no stranger to a wrench; however I've never come across this issue as I've always lived in fairly mild climates. My dad used to live in northern Vermont, so it's spent several winters there and it's quite evident by looking at the amount of rust underneath.

I thought I could replace the front lines by ordering an OEM replacement online. The replacement has a union in the middle separating the front passenger-side line into two pieces - extremely helpful as there is no way to thread the line through the steering rack, tie rods, exhaust and all the other [censored] that's in the way between the master cylinder and passenger front brake. What's not helpful is that I'm not able to reach the union when the line is in the correct location. It seems obvious to me that these lines were placed there by GM before the subframe, and all the other stuff. I spent a couple hours trying to fanangle the thing into position and STILL be able to couple the union together, but I just can't do it without a lift or some sort of miracle.

It seems to me that a brake / mechanic shop would just make their own lines, and be able to route around obstacles instead of trying to zig-zag through a bunch of [censored] like the OEM line does. Is this usually their approach? If the cost is reasonable, I'd much rather take this to someone than to keep banging my head against the wall. Any ideas on ballpark cost? Vehicle is a 2003 Monte Carlo (3.4L engine) without ABS. Has 120k miles, lots of life left and only a couple other small things I need to repair, but definitely a safe, saleable vehicle provided these brakes lines get replaced. Any input/info/suggstions, etc. would be greatly appreciated.

 

[irad]

The connection you see is a double flare. I replaced rusted brake lines and used a double flaring tool and new connectors. Remember to put the flare nut on the line before you do the double flare. It is not hard but you do have to crank down hard on the tool to get the double flare on the tubing. Remember also the oem routes the brake line so that engine heat does not heat the brake fluid.

 

[bullwinkle]

Nickel/copper is the way to go in this situation, & many shops should have a roll of it, fittings, and the reverse flaring tool to make it. Add the headache of trying to bleed an ABS system (assuming an '03 would have one?), and it's not a bad job to outsource.

 

[Imp4]

Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
Add the headache of trying to bleed an ABS system (assuming an '03 would have one?), and it's not a bad job to outsource.

Definitely a job to outsource if you don't have the correct ABS interface tools to bleed correctly

This is not something you want to find out the hard way!

 

[old1]

I believe the op said it DOES NOT have ABS.

 

[KrisZ]

Forget OEM, more headache than it's worth. Ni-Co lines are the best way to go. I wish I knew that before I did my old Focus lines. Fortunately I sold the car before they needed attention.

If the location is really difficult, I would inspect the lines, cut out the rusty part and make a splice, just like the union you already described.

 

[andyd]

Even with a lift it is a PITN job. When I put new hard lines in the Rat, I made the lines from a roll of 3/16 tubing and flare fittings. The fronts were the hardest due to obstacles. I tied a string on the hose connection and worked back toward the master cylinder. going through the clips to get a rough estimate of length. I also used string to pull it in through the front crossmember. To properly make a double flare takes a little practice and a few simple tools. A tubing cutter and a file. Unless the copper is super easy to form and flare why use it? The new steel lines will out last the Rat. Cars should come from the factory with the copper/nickel tubing

 

[Imp4]

Originally Posted By: old1
I believe the op said it DOES NOT have ABS.

After a re-read, yes, you are correct.
No ABS requirements here.
Still a PITA job if you've never done it before and/or don't have a helper with insight/experience.

I still vote outsourcing.

 

[brianl703]

Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
Nickel/copper is the way to go in this situation, & many shops should have a roll of it, fittings, and the reverse flaring tool to make it. Add the headache of trying to bleed an ABS system (assuming an '03 would have one?), and it's not a bad job to outsource.


Unless you are opening the system between the master cylinder and the ABS hydraulic unit, there should be no need for any special bleeding procedure.

 

[eljefino]

+5 on the Ni-copp. The flare tool is $25. You don't have to run the new line exactly precisely where the old one went as far as routing through the clips etc. Just make sure you secure it every foot or so against vibration and that it won't get snagged by moving suspension parts or by road obstacles. Zip ties to the abandoned old line are the redneck way of doing this.

Typically I go in from above, snake down the firewall, thread it through the front subframe/ firewall interface, then it's smooth sailing from there. The alternate is to cut and flare the line a couple inches aft of the firewall because the twisty hard-to-run "top part" isn't rusty.

You want vibration reduction at the master cylinder, typically done by a few 1.5" diameter loops.

If you've never flared a line before, practice on some scrap. You can buy pre-flared lines of various lengths and adapters to the oddball master cylinder threads if you insist on not flaring.