Brake job coming up, what do I need?

[Shel_B]

The brakes on the Camry are getting close to needing replacement, although I do have some time based on the last inspection about 6-mos back. I'm starting to look into my options, but I don't know what I'll need besides rotors and pads. The last time I did any brakes was around 1988-89 and they were on two much newer cars than the Camry. The only other brakes I've done were in 1972 when I slapped a set of front pads on my Mazda.

Should I consider new calipers and pistons? AFAIK, they're fine now, but do they get replaced as preventative maintenance, and doing it "while you're in there?" Is there some sort of maintenance to be done on the calipers and pistons? I'd just as soon not spend the $$, but I've no concern about doing so if it's something to be done.

What else should be looked at or replaced? What about the parking brake? Does it get adjusted or need maintenance? And brake fluid? Dot 3 or Dot 4? Is all brake fluid pretty much the same? Should the brake hoses be replaced?

The bottom line is this: I'm OK doing anything that has to or should be done ... I don't want to skimp or overlook anything ... but I'll be happier if more $$ can stay in my wallet.

 

[Astro14]

Rotors, pads, and caliper hardware. The clips, springs, etc. that are on the caliper.

Often they’re OK, but when they’re not, you don’t want to be scrambling for new hardware in the middle of the job.

 

[tblt44]

Pads

 

[JMJNet]

That camry just need a pad.
Buy the pad with the hardware included.

You don't need any new caliper or anything.
I have not had to replace any caliper in my Toyota and I have a couple around your camry's age (2010 and 2013).
Everytime, I just put a new pad and flush the fluid.
The rotor, you can inspect ahead of time if you need a new one but I suspect it is not.

Toyota have great quality parts, so don't start replacing them if it is not broken/bad.

 

[Dave9]

The brakes on the Camry are getting close to needing replacement, although I do have some time based on the last inspection about 6-mos back. I'm starting to look into my options, but I don't know what I'll need besides rotors and pads.

Nothing necessarily, besides tools, and *materials* like brake grease and brake fluid, possibly some sandpaper and/or wire wheel or wire brush if there is corrosion to get rid of.

Should I consider new calipers and pistons? AFAIK, they're fine now, but do they get replaced as preventative maintenance, and doing it "while you're in there?" Is there some sort of maintenance to be done on the calipers and pistons?

If the vehicle has heavy rust and it looks like it is already dicey whether you could get the hose off the hard line or the caliper, then it "might" be time to replace those... or it could already be past that point and you risk damaging the hard line trying to remove it.

This is a case of pull the wheel and inspect everything. Considering it is (only) a 2011, odds are that the only hardware you need are pads, possibly rotors, and possibly the new springs/clips that often come with pads.

Maintenance while you're in there, yes. Pull the caliper slider pins, inspect for corrosion, clean corrosion off or replace them if it is excessive (pitting level), and relube them. If unsure what the original lube was (probably lithium grease, you can tell if silicone because it won't dissolve in gasoline/etc petroleum solvents), then you need to clean all the original lube out of the slider pin bore, or if the grease is very crusty/hardened, then again a good idea to clean all the old grease out. Clean off corrosion under the caliper slider rail shims, and viscous grease there before replacing back on and/or replacing with new ones.

Other maintenance is flush new brake fluid through the system if it hasn't been done in a few years. Opinions vary on how often this is needed but if still on the original fluid then it is due for it. It should take DOT4, any old brand will do fine.

What else should be looked at or replaced? What about the parking brake? Does it get adjusted or need maintenance?

Does the parking brake still hold well? I am unfamiliar with what mechanism it uses for the parking brake and pads but you would inspect that. It is self-adjusting but if it does not work well, like if seized up or you have secondary pads, or a seized cable, address that issue. If there is a mechanism that is corroded, you could clean it off and relube, or replace (and may still benefit from more lube added) and adjusted after put back on (if it was taken off).

You might find some youtube videos that give you a better idea what everything looks like ahead of time. IF you are dealing with significant corrosion, it is time to think about cleaning that off the hub center and face, and applying anti-seize or silicone paste to the center area that contacts the rotor, and also clean and AS or paste on the wheel center bore where it contacts the hub.

 

[cptbarkey]

Check South Main Auto on Youtube, he has done what feels like hundreds of brake job videos in usual meticulous detail. You will gain confidence watching him. Main point that Dave hit on is lubing the pads and caliper slide pins to ensure good operating brakes. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018PSASU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Your calipers are likely just fine, but if you are up north they may need alot of extra grunt work.

Replace the rotors, dont skip on this investment, its key for smooth brakes.

At 13 years you are definitely due for new brake fluid, any DOT3 or DOT4 will work fine. I use supertech and its fine and cheap.

Good luck.

 

[Shel_B]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018PSASU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for the tip. From what little I've read thus far, that (or something similar) seems to be the way to go.

 

[JoelB]

That fact that you're in California means those brakes really shouldn't be horrible to work on. Rust is really the killer in that area. Heat cycling + salt is just nasty.

 

[CarbonToast]

Measure the brake rotor thickness. If the surface finish looks OK, no pulsing from the brake pedal, and the thickness is within range I reuse the Rotors.

This is an unpopular opinion, but that is how I do it.

 

[Kantaro]

You may want to watch a few vehicle specific videos or DIY guides. Sometimes I like to review the factory service manual or even a Haynes/Chilton manual to see if there are any "gotchas" missed by amateurs. Your library may have these available.

Unlikely you'll need anything other than pads, but you may as well replace the rotors while you're in there. Pads leave a layer of deposits on the rotor surface that may or may not interfere with the new pads. The replacement pads should come with new hardware - be sure to use them to ensure that the pads can slide smoothly in the caliper bracket. It's also good practice to grease the pad ears with anti-seize. Be careful not to use any petroleum based grease on the guide pins that could cause the rubber boots to swell and prevent the caliper from moving.

RockAuto may have the best availability. I think Bosch QuietCast are a safe choice for pads and coated rotors. For brake fluid, I would recommend Bosch ESI6 - it is compatible with DOT3 and DOT4 but has lower viscosity and a longer service life. A better overall product for a similar cost.

 

[We're Metals]

Are you planning on doing the work youself?

Why not ask the professionals who you will pay to work on your car?

 

[John105]

No need for calipers unless there’s an issue. Maybe rotors and pads. Usually new clips not needed.

On a Toyota almost always the OE shims are missing. 2 per each pad so 16 of them.

Admittedly I bought them but didn’t installs them and no noise with akebono pro acts, OE rotors front, Centric back.

Since I am coming up on the 3rd set of pads
For the front rotors, I may put in new Centrics in the spring. OE is too expensive esp with shipping and Centrics look the same except they have black, not gray, hats.

Not sure about the Camry but my LS430s rotors are all loose. There is no set screw holding them to the hubs so discs are easy to replace.

Good luck

 

[JeffKeryk]

@Shel_B are you doing all 4 or just the fronts? Are the rears disc or drum? Do you have the necessary tools, mainly a proper jack and jack stands?
It might be worth it to come down to Los Gatos and we do the work in my garage... Or even in Petaluma?

Heck, we might even drag @The Critic over; he is always willing to lend a hand and his expertise. I am half kidding, of course, but he is always happy to help.
FYI, if it were me, I would likely use any good rotor and Toyota OE pads.

 

[The Critic]

47769-50010, order 2 of them if you are doing a front brake job. 50/50 chance of them being swollen which results in the slide pins being stuck.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018PSASU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That stuff has limited use. It is okay for shims, but that is about it - even for that, the oil will "sweat" off and leave a mess. Definitely do not use it for slide pins.

 

[We're Metals]

Ive had more issues with swolen/ stuck/ overtightened lug nuts than anything else in the past.

 

[zzyzzx]

Make sure you have the right pads... If it's anything like a 2000 Camry, there are different pads for different engine sizes, and different pads for made in USA vs Made in Japan Camrys (not sure of that last part is applicable to your year). And uh, just because yours was made in USA doesn't mean that your Camry uses the pads that the part catalog says is for a Made in Japan Camry.

 

[Shel_B]

Measure the brake rotor thickness. If the surface finish looks OK, no pulsing from the brake pedal, and the thickness is within range I reuse the Rotors.

You may want to watch a few vehicle specific videos or DIY guides. Sometimes I like to review the factory service manual or even a Haynes/Chilton manual to see if there are any "gotchas" missed by amateurs. Your library may have these available.


Unlikely you'll need anything other than pads, but you may as well replace the rotors while you're in there. Pads leave a layer of deposits on the rotor surface that may or may not interfere with the new pads. The replacement pads should come with new hardware - be sure to use them to ensure that the pads can slide smoothly in the caliper bracket. It's also good practice to grease the pad ears with anti-seize. Be careful not to use any petroleum based grease on the guide pins that could cause the rubber boots to swell and prevent the caliper from moving.

RockAuto may have the best availability. I think Bosch QuietCast are a safe choice for pads and coated rotors. For brake fluid, I would recommend Bosch ESI6 - it is compatible with DOT3 and DOT4 but has lower viscosity and a longer service life. A better overall product for a similar cost.

I'm going to replace the rotors. When I got the car in August of 2020, the rotors were shaved to eliminate a vibration. Also, at 55,000 miles (the car has 92,000 now) the rear brakes were replaced and the front and rear rotors are no longer a "matching set." I don't know how important that is, but it annoys me even though there have been no braking issues as a result.

I'll look into the Bosch fluid. What benefit does the lower viscosity offer?

I'm going to get new hardware. I don't know the quality and condition of what's on there now, and the set that I'm considering from Rock Auto has some insulating material on the pads or shims that helps to quiet the brakes. Sounds like an upgrade worth considering.

Thanks, guys.

 

[Shel_B]

47769-50010, order 2 of them if you are doing a front brake job. 50/50 chance of them being swollen which results in the slide pins being stuck.

I never would have thought about those bushings. Thanks! Why just the front? I'm going to do all four corners, so shouldn't a similar item be available/recommended for the rear?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018PSASU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That stuff has limited use. It is okay for shims, but that is about it - even for that, the oil will "sweat" off and leave a mess. Definitely do not use it for slide pins.

What do you suggest in its stead?

 

[Nukeman7]

47769-50010, order 2 of them if you are doing a front brake job. 50/50 chance of them being swollen which results in the slide pins being stuck.


That stuff has limited use. It is okay for shims, but that is about it - even for that, the oil will "sweat" off and leave a mess. Definitely do not use it for slide pins.

That purple Permatex Ceramic formulation brake grease will cause the rubber bushing seals to swell up and bind the caliper pins. Just get the 100% silicone grease instead.

MISSION Silicone Paste

You will also need a can or two of spray brake cleaner and good nitrile gloves to protect your hands. I have had very good experiences using the Akebono Pro-Act Ceramic pads and shims on Toyota Camrys and Honda Accords.

 

[Shel_B]

@Shel_B are you doing all 4 or just the fronts? Are the rears disc or drum? Do you have the necessary tools, mainly a proper jack and jack stands?
It might be worth it to come down to Los Gatos and we do the work in my garage... Or even in Petaluma?

Heck, we might even drag @The Critic over; he is always willing to lend a hand and his expertise.
FYI, if it were me, I would likely use any good rotor and Toyota OE pads.

I'm doing all four, and the rears are disc.

I certainly appreciate and welcome your offer. We'll see what the situation is closer to the time the job will be done. I'll inspect the brakes again at the next oil change which should be in 2-3 weeks.