Brake job coming up, what do I need?

[Shel_B]

The brakes on the Camry are getting close to needing replacement, although I do have some time based on the last inspection about 6-mos back. I'm starting to look into my options, but I don't know what I'll need besides rotors and pads. The last time I did any brakes was around 1988-89 and they were on two much newer cars than the Camry. The only other brakes I've done were in 1972 when I slapped a set of front pads on my Mazda.

Should I consider new calipers and pistons? AFAIK, they're fine now, but do they get replaced as preventative maintenance, and doing it "while you're in there?" Is there some sort of maintenance to be done on the calipers and pistons? I'd just as soon not spend the $$, but I've no concern about doing so if it's something to be done.

What else should be looked at or replaced? What about the parking brake? Does it get adjusted or need maintenance? And brake fluid? Dot 3 or Dot 4? Is all brake fluid pretty much the same? Should the brake hoses be replaced?

The bottom line is this: I'm OK doing anything that has to or should be done ... I don't want to skimp or overlook anything ... but I'll be happier if more $$ can stay in my wallet.

 

[Shel_B]

That purple Permatex Ceramic formulation brake grease will cause the rubber bushing seals to swell up and bind the caliper pins. Just get the 100% silicone grease instead.

MISSION Silicone Paste

You will also need a can or two of spray brake cleaner and good nitrile gloves to protect your hands. I have had very good experiences using the Akebono Pro-Act Ceramic pads and shims on Toyota Camrys and Honda Accords.

Thanks for the information. The Akebonos are one option I am seriously considering along with Toyota parts. There may be others later as I learn more and develop preferences.

 

[MRC01]

That camry just need a pad.
Buy the pad with the hardware included.
...
Toyota have great quality parts, so don't start replacing them if it is not broken/bad.

This ^^^
What is the mileage? It may not need new rotors. I've seen OEM rotors last into 6 figures of mileage. At least check the rotor surfaces and thickness and replace them only if necessary on condition.

 

[Donald]

Start with spraying the bleeder screw with PB Blaster and then crack it open to make sure you can. If you snap it then it's new caliper time.

I use Akebono ProAct pads. Make sure the pads include new SS clips.

If the piston goes in pretty easily then your calipers are fine. If not you either rebuild the caliper or buy a new caliper.

You will need to make sure some parts you may or may not need are available if needed.

Sil-glyde lube.

The area on the caliper bracket where the SS clips fit needs to be cleaned of rust with a file not wire brush. Use anti-seize under the SS clips. Or a similar lubricant paste.

The sliding PIN and the boot needs to be cleaned and inspected. Do not wire brush any rust off the pin. If there is rust on the pin after wiping with a shop towel then replace. Check that the boot looks good, no tears or swelling. Someone might have used the wrong lubricant on the sliding pin and caused the boot to swell. Replace the boot.

You will get the best brake job with new rotors but if the rotor is pretty smooth and above the minimum thickness then you can reuse the rotors.

 

[Shel_B]

Start with spraying the bleeder screw with PB Blaster and then crack it open to make sure you can. If you snap it then it's new caliper time.
I use Akebono ProAct pads. Make sure the pads include new SS clips.
If the piston goes in pretty easily then your calipers are fine. If not you either rebuild the caliper or buy a new caliper.
You will need to make sure some parts you may or may not need are available if needed.

Sil-glyde lube.

The area on the caliper bracket where the SS clips fit needs to be cleaned of rust with a file not wire brush. Use anti-seize under the SS clips. Or a similar lubricant paste.

The sliding PIN and the boot needs to be cleaned and inspected. Do not wire brush any rust off the pin. If there is rust on the pin after wiping with a shop towel then replace. Check that the boot looks good, no tears or swelling. Someone might have used the wrong lubricant on the sliding pin and caused the boot to swell. Replace the boot.
You will get the best brake job with new rotors but if the rotor is pretty smooth and above the minimum thickness then you can reuse the rotors.

Thanks so much, Donald. You've proffered some important things to think about and to be aware of.

 

[spasm3]

I never would have thought about those bushings. Thanks! Why just the front? I'm going to do all four corners, so shouldn't a similar item be available/recommended for the rear?

What do you suggest in its stead?

I like Mission silicone grease. Works great on slide pins, make sure they are clean. For diy use, a bottle will last forever.

https://www.amazon.com/Mission-Automotive-Dielectric-Silicone-Waterproof/dp/B016E5E59G/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2POEF84C9ADZ2&keywords=mission+silicone+paste&qid=1704754975&sprefix=mission+sil%2Caps%2C407&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

 

[97prizm]

The brakes on the Camry are getting close to needing replacement, although I do have some time based on the last inspection about 6-mos back. I'm starting to look into my options, but I don't know what I'll need besides rotors and pads. The last time I did any brakes was around 1988-89 and they were on two much newer cars than the Camry. The only other brakes I've done were in 1972 when I slapped a set of front pads on my Mazda.

Should I consider new calipers and pistons? AFAIK, they're fine now, but do they get replaced as preventative maintenance, and doing it "while you're in there?" Is there some sort of maintenance to be done on the calipers and pistons? I'd just as soon not spend the $$, but I've no concern about doing so if it's something to be done.

What else should be looked at or replaced? What about the parking brake? Does it get adjusted or need maintenance? And brake fluid? Dot 3 or Dot 4? Is all brake fluid pretty much the same? Should the brake hoses be replaced?

The bottom line is this: I'm OK doing anything that has to or should be done ... I don't want to skimp or overlook anything ... but I'll be happier if more $$ can stay in my wallet.

Definitely new brake fluid. People don't change theirs often enough. Most newer vehicles it's even more important with ABS and the fact that many vehicles use brake force distribution to act as traction control etc. Dirty fluid can plug up the small holes in the system (pump?) And can mess with proper operation.

 

[97prizm]

The brakes on the Camry are getting close to needing replacement, although I do have some time based on the last inspection about 6-mos back. I'm starting to look into my options, but I don't know what I'll need besides rotors and pads. The last time I did any brakes was around 1988-89 and they were on two much newer cars than the Camry. The only other brakes I've done were in 1972 when I slapped a set of front pads on my Mazda.

Should I consider new calipers and pistons? AFAIK, they're fine now, but do they get replaced as preventative maintenance, and doing it "while you're in there?" Is there some sort of maintenance to be done on the calipers and pistons? I'd just as soon not spend the $$, but I've no concern about doing so if it's something to be done.

What else should be looked at or replaced? What about the parking brake? Does it get adjusted or need maintenance? And brake fluid? Dot 3 or Dot 4? Is all brake fluid pretty much the same? Should the brake hoses be replaced?

The bottom line is this: I'm OK doing anything that has to or should be done ... I don't want to skimp or overlook anything ... but I'll be happier if more $$ can stay in my wallet.

Definitely check your e-brake cable and hardware related to that. I spent an arm and a leg after my dad and I replaced the rear drums, shoes, and hardware to have the e-brake cable stick causing the shoes to drag and overheat.

 

[Shel_B]

Definitely new brake fluid. People don't change theirs often enough. Most newer vehicles it's even more important with ABS and the fact that many vehicles use brake force distribution to act as traction control etc. Dirty fluid can plug up the small holes in the system (pump?) And can mess with proper operation.

That's good advice. The Camry had a change in late July 2020 and will get another change when the brakes are done.

 

[Donald]

I like Mission silicone grease. Works great on slide pins, make sure they are clean. For diy use, a bottle will last forever.

https://www.amazon.com/Mission-Automotive-Dielectric-Silicone-Waterproof/dp/B016E5E59G/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2POEF84C9ADZ2&keywords=mission+silicone+paste&qid=1704754975&sprefix=mission+sil%2Caps%2C407&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

I would not use that grease on brakes. It says Silicone Dielectric Grease on the label. Syl-glyde is the standard and is made specifically for brakes. It needs to handle high heat and not swell any rubber parts.

 

[Twisted1]

I would not use that grease on brakes. It says Silicone Dielectric Grease on the label. Syl-glyde is the standard and is made specifically for brakes. It needs to handle high heat and not swell any rubber parts.

Agreed. Syl-Glyde is top notch

 

[spasm3]

I would not use that grease on brakes. It says Silicone Dielectric Grease on the label. Syl-glyde is the standard and is made specifically for brakes. It needs to handle high heat and not swell any rubber parts.

Syl-glyde's label is listed to 400F. Mission is good to 570f. Its also on the label indicated for caliper slide pins and metal rubber plastic safe. I find it superior to syl glyde. I've had syl glyde get gummy and dark. This does not.

I believe @Trav uses this as well.

Just don't apply it to spark plugs the way the second picture shows!

 

[Soft Cars]

Get the ABS module bled out with a scanner; that's the most important thing you can do.

 

[researcher]

Thanks for the tip. From what little I've read thus far, that (or something similar) seems to be the way to go.

shel, please do not use the Permatex ceramic solids grease (purple grease I call it) on the sliding pins. You can use it on the ears/tabs of the pads or even between the shim and the backing plate of the pad. But it won't go well for the Toyota to use that. Use the Toyota rubber grease, it's a lithium soap based grease, it usually only lasts about a year, but servicing brakes every year isn't such a bad thing.

I just saw that others warned you about the purple grease. I've only used it on my scion tC because the performance pads turned other grease into water, kinda got a little too hot for it!

I know people will say to use silicone and they've never had any issues..but Toyota warns against it. I know first hand why.. The sliding pin bushings swelled up from the silicone. Had to replace all those bushings, then I learned of Toyota's rubber grease. 08887-01206 is the part number. Never had another issue, right part for the right job.

and as far as brake fluid, personally I've found that Toyota's DOT3 (heavy duty) is very good. Wasn't any more expensive than the aftermarket, works well for about 3 years then I replace it.

About the pads.. I doubt you'll install some performance pads, not cheap.. My friend just put on some duralast ceramic pads on their rogue. I'm scared to say they are really nice! I never would look at duralast/autozone pads but whoever makes it for Autozone impressed me! have good grip, linear/progressive brake feel, and quiet.

 

[Donald]

shel, please do not use the Permatex ceramic solids grease (purple grease I call it) on the sliding pins. You can use it on the ears/tabs of the pads or even between the shim and the backing plate of the pad. But it won't go well for the Toyota to use that. Use the Toyota rubber grease, it's a lithium soap based grease, it usually only lasts about a year, but servicing brakes every year isn't such a bad thing.

I just saw that others warned you about the purple grease. I've only used it on my scion tC because the performance pads turned other grease into water, kinda got a little too hot for it!

I know people will say to use silicone and they've never had any issues..but Toyota warns against it. I know first hand why.. The sliding pin bushings swelled up from the silicone. Had to replace all those bushings, then I learned of Toyota's rubber grease. 08887-01206 is the part number. Never had another issue, right part for the right job.

and as far as brake fluid, personally I've found that Toyota's DOT3 (heavy duty) is very good. Wasn't any more expensive than the aftermarket, works well for about 3 years then I replace it.

About the pads.. I doubt you'll install some performance pads, not cheap.. My friend just put on some duralast ceramic pads on their rogue. I'm scared to say they are really nice! I never would look at duralast/autozone pads but whoever makes it for Autozone impressed me! have good grip, linear/progressive brake feel, and quiet.

The problem is the people making Duralast pads today might be different than tomorrow and the same goes for different vehicles. One company making Duralast for a Chevy and another for a Ford. You don't know. But you know Akebono or Wagner are making their own pads.

And to some extent it's about rigid quality. In the rust belt you don't want to be filing the pad ears to get them to fit properly. That's asking for rust.

 

[spasm3]

The problem is the people making Duralast pads today might be different than tomorrow and the same goes for different vehicles. One company making Duralast for a Chevy and another for a Ford. You don't know. But you know Akebono or Wagner are making their own pads.

And to some extent it's about rigid quality. In the rust belt you don't want to be filing the pad ears to get them to fit properly. That's asking for rust.

This +1

 

[John105]

Jmoymmv I was taught not to use anti seize but the proper brake lube when dealing with floating calipers, pins, and pads.

Ditto with spark plugs which is a different debate, it should not be used there either as the torque values are altered.

I do use plenty of anti seize on the hub/rotor hat area.

 

[researcher]

The problem is the people making Duralast pads today might be different than tomorrow and the same goes for different vehicles. One company making Duralast for a Chevy and another for a Ford. You don't know. But you know Akebono or Wagner are making their own pads.

And to some extent it's about rigid quality. In the rust belt you don't want to be filing the pad ears to get them to fit properly. That's asking for rust.

that's exactly why I was completely surprised that whoever made the current ceramic pads for Autozone are really decent. But tomorrow who knows who it would be. I never thought I'd give a complement like that..

 

[Donald]

Jmoymmv I was taught not to use anti seize but the proper brake lube when dealing with floating calipers, pins, and pads.

Ditto with spark plugs which is a different debate, it should not be used there either as the torque values are altered.

I do use plenty of anti seize on the hub/rotor hat area.

Anti-seize is often used under the SS clips. I use Muscle Grease on the hub.

 

[John105]

Anti-seize is often used under the SS clips. I use Muscle Grease on the hub.

I know costs add up. My tube is made by ATE and blue.

But I believe that something like this is for brake pins and clips etc

Amazon.com

 

[Kantaro]

I know people will say to use silicone and they've never had any issues..but Toyota warns against it. I know first hand why.. The sliding pin bushings swelled up from the silicone. Had to replace all those bushings, then I learned of Toyota's rubber grease. 08887-01206 is the part number. Never had another issue, right part for the right job.

Fascinating. I wonder if Toyota uses silicone rubber (eg FKM) for those bushings? That's the only rubber that could swell from silicone grease as far as I know, but I could be wrong.

Just goes to show that every application can be unique and the OEMs know more than us mere mortals. Sometimes it's safer to simply clean and reinstall with no grease. That's what the BMW FSM calls for at least.