Q about 200k mi. issue on Odyssey

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7.5K OCIs continuously using conventional oil is too long. Especially using an oil that I've found to produce varnish, if used too long per OCI.

I use synthetic and I never go more than 6-7K per OCI. My GM engines 15-17 years and 250K later (mixed driving) only use a half-quart to a quart per OCI.
 
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Originally Posted By: Triple_Se7en
7.5K OCIs continuously using conventional oil is too long. Especially using an oil that I've found to produce varnish, if used too long per OCI.

I use synthetic and I never go more than 6-7K per OCI. My GM engines 15-17 years and 250K later (mixed driving) only use a half-quart to a quart per OCI.


Yes, I realize that it was not the best choice, however it was late when I realized I should do a syn. Having been yelled at by my dad enough times not to buy tires, oil, filters, etc. that are "luxury", I left this one alone since he's proud it's the only car he bought brand new.

What sucks though is that nobody, including him, actually do anything but drive them; and now I'm stuck with figuring out what to do in order to keep my cost down & keep my mom happy.

TY for at least confirming that a good oil actually does have some long-term benefits.
 
Originally Posted By: gilbertsta
.... not sarcastic... maybe something you dont want to hear?


My Apologies, I'm not trying to be mean, but it's -10F at night right now. I feel if anything I should use a 0w20, and I really really am 100% against using any "magic" oil additives, seafoam, or anyting else into a good engine.

If the engine is actually shot a compression test will show that, and if I see the liner's gone on the borescope then I'll just get a cheap reman. engine and stick it in there. If the liner's good I'll just take the pan off, replace the rings, and hot bath the pistons.

First though I want to do something more simple like replace the PCV, put in some fresh oil that isn't the GTX, and get a UOA before I officially put GTX into the garbage pile. I have a bit of "attachment" to get over, considering I've used it for so many years.
 
One other thing I should ask, but should I expect a leak when going from dino GTX to dino PYB?

I'm thinking "no" but I have no idea how to confirm that as a 0.0% chance, or is it possible to have a 5-30% chance of surprise?
 
No problem, just in my opinion when you have a high mileage car like that,mobviously you must have been doing something right, but now that you made it there it's time to change the game plan a little. It's like getting a walker when your 80 your engine just might need a little extra to keep going.
 
have a leakdown test done, see if the rings are worn

switch to a synthetic xw-30 like mobil 1 or penz platinum.

save for a new van
 
Originally Posted By: JDMHero47
Originally Posted By: gilbertsta
You obviously ran to light of weight of engine oil. Your cylinder walls are probably shellacked. What I would do is a last chance ditch effort to save your engine. I would run a can of sea foam thru her and replace the oil with a 10w 40w.
'

Now this I know is just straight wrong. Did you read what I posted at all?

Is there a way to block sarcastic/stupid answers like this?


He does come up with some doosies.
 
While I commend you for getting the engine to reach a mileage quite a bit past what many people are capable of, the decision to run conventional oil to 7,500 miles and the opinion that several proven engine treatment products are "magic" compel me to appeal to you to open your mind, try a few of the suggestions put forth here by other individuals, and potentially save yourself a lot of time and money. If your parents insisted on using conventional oil and there was no convincing them otherwise, I can understand that, but you don't have to think like them against logic and evidence. I am one of a substantial number of DIY'ers that have seen legitimate results from the proper usage of certain products that some people can't get over as being a "band-aid" or "snake oil". Engine Restore and the little bottles of Gumout fuel treatment are, but not everything is.

There is a difference between wear and simple buildup of dirt. Would you cut out the floorboards and rocker panels of a classic car before washing the mud out from under it to see what you have?
 
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Originally Posted By: Nick1994
You should step it up to a better oil and a step up on viscosity.



This^^^.

I would run HM synthetic 5-30 in the winter and HM synthetic 10-30 in the summer.
 
My folks (later only my Mom) took their Odyssey to 250,000 miles using 5w30. Never a problem. Still ran great. Mom only wanted a newer vehicle because she was concerned that, since the Odyssey was getting a little long in the tooth, that it was due for a major problem. Someone who knew my Mom bought the Odyssey off of her quick and at a better than market value since he knew the quality of it and how they had taken care of and driven it. Still running good. They never used a HM oil in the vehicle. Just basic dealership bulk 5w30 year round.
 
If it were my vehicle I would roll the OCI back to 5k and switch to a 5w30. It's a Honda, burning oil or not i bet that thing has a ton of life left in it.
 
I am surprised you have so little consumption on such a maintenance schedule. My recommendation would be switch oils. Try Castrol HM or Valvoline Maxlife.
 
I think you're getting overly excited here. The motor will run to the 270k you say you want. The oil is contaminated at 5k and you should shorten the oci accordingly. You could start topping up with GTX 5-30 to see if that helps. Ymmv
 
20 grade oil is too thin now. Might have been fine in the brand new engine but you have to account for the wear. You have nothing to lose by going to a 30 grade.

The SN oil may have more detergents which is good. It would possibly have less zddp also compared to the SM formula which is bad. The engine is also older and burning more oil so it makes perfect sense that the oil is getting darker quicker.

Going to a euro spec 30 grade would be my recommendation. It should have more zddp and will have a higher hths which may help oil burning which may in turn make the oil look less dark.
 
Originally Posted By: JDMHero47
Btw, the PYB 5w20 has a NOACK of ~6 something, but the 5w30 has NOACK of ~13 on PQIA. All else held equal, the 20 would be better, right? (not sure if I'm interpreting NOACK correctly, as I don't quite understand why an oil has a % weight loss???)


That low NOACK of PYB was due to SOPUS dumping GTL. Here is the latest PQIA results.


http://www.pqiadata.org/July2016SAE5W20SidBySide.html
 
Sure doesn't take away from the fact that SOPUS does provide a pretty substantial add pack even in the PYB stuff across the viscosity spectrum.
 
Hey Guys, I wanted to update this now that I have 5k mi. on the PYB.

First off, here's the UOA of the GTX 5w20 that came out at the start of March:

 
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