So last night I did an oil change and decided to use one of my Pure 1 filters that I picked up on sale PL20195 and when screwing it on I noticed that I could dent or push in the sides with my fingers! Is this normal for a Pure 1 filter? I usually use a Fram XG filter and it seems the XG can is real solid. As a side note I must add that I have had great luck with the Fram XG filters (Only Fram I will use) I have used them for a long time now and they are built quite well. I have cut a few of them open the last one had 9,000 miles on it and it looked great inside.
Pure 1 soft can?
- Thread starter Camprunner
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That`s why I`ve never tried a Purolator filter,I can crush them in my hand. I`ve been using Fram since the 80s. Never a single problem.
I agree that all the Pure 1 filters have a thinner can.
From a burst strength standpoint, you could pretty much make the can out of plastic and it would be fine.
What I would be more worried about is the possibility of kicked up road debris puncturing the can. That could happen.
My 4cyl Tacoma has the oil filter really well protected behind and above a frame cross member, so I use the Pure 1 without worry. If it wasn't as well protected, I probably would find something a little beefier.
From a burst strength standpoint, you could pretty much make the can out of plastic and it would be fine.
What I would be more worried about is the possibility of kicked up road debris puncturing the can. That could happen.
My 4cyl Tacoma has the oil filter really well protected behind and above a frame cross member, so I use the Pure 1 without worry. If it wasn't as well protected, I probably would find something a little beefier.
I've said the same thing on here before. Changing from the XG to Purolator Classics there is a very noticeable difference in the strength of the external cans. I wonder about catching a stone or road debris at highway speeds also. But that's never happened to me.
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
That`s why I`ve never tried a Purolator filter,I can crush them in my hand.
Maybe as retaliation for the Purolator commercials with the hand crushing cardboard end caps, Fram should have commercials with a hand crushing the entire filter.
That`s why I`ve never tried a Purolator filter,I can crush them in my hand.
Maybe as retaliation for the Purolator commercials with the hand crushing cardboard end caps, Fram should have commercials with a hand crushing the entire filter.
Originally Posted By: tig1
I have noticed the thin cans in the past with P1 filters.
Me too, although it doesn't appear to be a problem for my applications.
I have noticed the thin cans in the past with P1 filters.
Me too, although it doesn't appear to be a problem for my applications.
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
That`s why I`ve never tried a Purolator filter,I can crush them in my hand.
Maybe as retaliation for the Purolator commercials with the hand crushing cardboard end caps, Fram should have commercials with a hand crushing the entire filter.
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
That`s why I`ve never tried a Purolator filter,I can crush them in my hand.
Maybe as retaliation for the Purolator commercials with the hand crushing cardboard end caps, Fram should have commercials with a hand crushing the entire filter.
Weird thing is the cheaper Classics, Motorcrafts, even the clones such as Proline and Quaker State are thicker!
Quote:
Weird thing is the cheaper Classics, Motorcrafts, even the clones such as Proline and Quaker State are thicker!
Any proof to back up this claim? Daman did testing here and found that the P1 with the texture removed was similar to Wix/Napa and several others. Extremely doubtful that P1 is using thinner stock then generic 'made fors' or Classic. Motorcraft and Mopar are made to their specs.
Any burst P1 filters reported/posted here? I haven't seen any. In 40+ years of diy oil change, never had an issue with any manufacturers can thickness in pc use.
Seems like a Frammer thread here with lots of speculation but no evidence of any failure.
To the OP, seems you're most confident in the XG, so using that is likely your best move.
Weird thing is the cheaper Classics, Motorcrafts, even the clones such as Proline and Quaker State are thicker!
Any proof to back up this claim? Daman did testing here and found that the P1 with the texture removed was similar to Wix/Napa and several others. Extremely doubtful that P1 is using thinner stock then generic 'made fors' or Classic. Motorcraft and Mopar are made to their specs.
Any burst P1 filters reported/posted here? I haven't seen any. In 40+ years of diy oil change, never had an issue with any manufacturers can thickness in pc use.
Seems like a Frammer thread here with lots of speculation but no evidence of any failure.
To the OP, seems you're most confident in the XG, so using that is likely your best move.
I can't tell any difference between P1 and most other filters myself. Some, like Mopar, M1, and ExtendedGuard do have noticeably thicker cans, but the Purolator Classic and P1 seem similar to Wix, AC, Motorcraft, and most others.
Of course that's just going by "feel" which is notoriously inaccurate.
And as others have said, burst strength depends mostly on tensile strength, so it can still be super high even with a thin shell. Its impact resistance that you need to worry about, and even a dented filter can become a failure point because now pressure cycles will flex the dent and create a fatigue point.
Of course that's just going by "feel" which is notoriously inaccurate.
And as others have said, burst strength depends mostly on tensile strength, so it can still be super high even with a thin shell. Its impact resistance that you need to worry about, and even a dented filter can become a failure point because now pressure cycles will flex the dent and create a fatigue point.
Originally Posted By: Camprunner
So last night I did an oil change and decided to use one of my Pure 1 filters that I picked up on sale PL20195 and when screwing it on I noticed that I could dent or push in the sides with my fingers!
I use PureOnes on all my vehicles and I don't get the sensation that the can is so thin that it's denting while installing (or removing) the filter by hand. Are you maybe over tightening them ... like going for a full turn or something?
So last night I did an oil change and decided to use one of my Pure 1 filters that I picked up on sale PL20195 and when screwing it on I noticed that I could dent or push in the sides with my fingers!
I use PureOnes on all my vehicles and I don't get the sensation that the can is so thin that it's denting while installing (or removing) the filter by hand. Are you maybe over tightening them ... like going for a full turn or something?
When you cut a P1 open you can feel that it is a weaker can, but on the otherhand it seems to be strong enough for normal use. I use a P1 on my motorcycle and the can hangs right out there behind the front tire where lots of stuff gets kicked up and I have never had a problem. The one on there right now has some road tar on it that got kicked up. Maybe I'm just lucky, but I've never had a canister filter of any type get punctured or damaged in use on all sorts of vehicles, though I have crushed and punctured a few getting them off the vehicle.
The Purolators I've used do seem "thinner", I can usually flex them in my hands without difficulty. It has not been a problem and I continue to use them.
The Puro made Motorcraft FL-1A's feel the same way to me.
The cans on the Frams I've used, even the dreaded OCOD seem stouter by feel than Puro's.
Currently running a Baldwin that felt so thick and heavy I think you could bludgeon someone to death with it!
The Puro made Motorcraft FL-1A's feel the same way to me.
The cans on the Frams I've used, even the dreaded OCOD seem stouter by feel than Puro's.
Currently running a Baldwin that felt so thick and heavy I think you could bludgeon someone to death with it!
^^^^Succinct answers, and basically a summary of the long term experiences of P1 users commenting here.
This is just silly. Almost any spin on oil filter will give if you squeeze at the sides. Smaller diameter filters and thicker ones (like Mopar brand) will resist better, but there's no good reason to be squeezing there in the first place. When screwing it on you grip it within a half inch of the dome end or you're doing it wrong. When removing, you grip it there as well, or if it's extra! super! stuck, you grip it within 3/8 inch of the interface end.
Just another reason to run Hastings.
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