Preowned SUV reliable models.

Is there a preference for front wheel drive versus all-wheel-drive

Nashville doesn't really get snow (compared to north of the Ohio River). I'd be worried more about ice/sleet---and in that weather it's not just FWD v. AWD, it's tires and prudence of the driver and the drivers around them.
 
RAV4 what years if any would you avoid
There are no years to avoid really. Some of the very early 2019's ICE model had an issue with hard shifting on a rolling stop. Mine did not but it was built in May. I think it was only a small number, but something to pay attention to on test drive.

The 2019 and 2020 hybrid had a gas tank fill issue - I think there was a recall so it was likely fixed? The 2019 to I think 2023 hybrid's had an issue with the cable going to the rear electric motor. Its like a $6000 fix. It seems only to affect those in areas of heavy salt, but still seems a bit rinky dink to me. Long thread about it on Rav4world.
 
Nashville doesn't really get snow (compared to north of the Ohio River). I'd be worried more about ice/sleet---and in that weather it's not just FWD v. AWD, it's tires and prudence of the driver and the drivers around them.
They had like 6 inches a week or so ago. Then it was 70 the next week.
 
If you are looking at a RAV4 get the hybrid if it fits in the budget. Night and day difference in how they drive and perform.
 
These are the two used SUVs that she should look at. Both are very reliable.
The Corolla Cross should also be on her list. She can purchase a new lower end model for about $25000.
FYI, the Honda CR-V has a CVT automatic as well as a turbo charger. From a long term reliability standpoint, turbo charging is something that should be avoided.
Under $25k would put it at a 2019 or older CR-V, which would have the NA engine standard:

The base engine is an Earth Dreams 2.4-litre I4 engine with 184 hp (137 kW; 187 PS); a turbocharged 1.5-litre I4 with 190 hp (142 kW; 193 PS) is offered.
 
I’m leaning towards RAV4. I’m hoping she agrees. Looking at preowned in the Nashville area they are around $24,000 which is in budget. Is there a preference for front wheel drive versus all-wheel-drive
Those prices are for fourth generation RAV
You think? Did she ask for something specific or otherwise provide guidelines?
we will be talking more today. Her previous vehicle was a compact four-door
 
These are the two used SUVs that she should look at. Both are very reliable.
The Corolla Cross should also be on her list. She can purchase a new lower end model for about $25000.
FYI, the Honda CR-V has a CVT automatic as well as a turbo charger. From a long term reliability standpoint, turbo charging is something that should be avoided.
I was not familiar with the Corolla Cross until now. My only concern it’s a new model though since it’s a Toyota I’m sure reliability is not an issue
 
Dodge Hornet GT - 2.0 Turbo, decent horsepower (268 HP), and torque (295 lb-ft), 9-speed ZF transmission (yes, they revised it), AWD, $32K out the door (brand new).



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Dodge Hornet, no way for someone who isn't maintenance/repair savvy.

When a Dodge starts out bad, the time till you want to drive it off a cliff is that much shorter.

Yeah, I'd tell the OP to stick to Mazda/Toyota, and stay away from anything "Terbo Charged" then.
 
I was not familiar with the Corolla Cross until now. My only concern it’s a new model though since it’s a Toyota I’m sure reliability is not an issue
The Corolla Cross has been on the market since the 2020 model year, but it is the second Toyota crossover built on the GA-C platform after the smaller C-HR which was launched in 2016, so it is not really new. Stay away from 1st year models of ANY vehicle, Toyotas included.
It has Toyota's 2.0L D-4S dual fuel injected engine without turbo charging. D-4S port and direct fuel injection is the answer for both oil dilution and carbon deposit problems.
It does have a CVT automatic transmission, but Toyota's CVT also has a physical gear-type 1st gear which negates the "from a dead stop" torque wear that plagues the long term reliability of most CVTs.
 
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I’m hoping to buy preowned certified.
Do you understand what certified means? It's a fee the dealer pays to the manufacturer if the vehicle meets certain criteria like tire depth, mileage, etc. That fee ultimately comes out of your pocket. I have a friend who ran a Hyundai/Mazda dealership for over 20 years. I learned a thing or two.

This vehicle is for your daughter, not a car person. Get her a Mazda CX5, brand new, and call it a day. If she keeps up with her oil changes, she will be fine for a very very very long time.
 
No cvt and a long warranty.
A worthless warranty I might add. My extended family and I owned over 20 Hyundais and a few KIAs since 2008, so I had multiple occasions to learn what that warranty is worth. Just no, stay awag from KIA/Hyundai.
 
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