Post your latest brake job

Had both front and rear brakes done on my 2019 Impreza. Used EBC Yellow stuff pads and EBC coated plain rotors. Only about 20 miles on them so can't give an impression yet.
 
Rear drums on '06 Silverado 1500 with 6.0. Apparently like the GMT900s with rear drums, the '800s are also heavily rear-biased. Just 93k on this:
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The Powerstop kit was incredibly comprehensive including EVERYTHING inside the drums incl all springs and auto-adjuster:
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and coated drums (I was servicing due to a pulsing pedal but not felt in steering wheel = rear brakes):
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Powerstop Z36 on both axles of 2014 Ram 3500. Silicone brake lube on all sliders and shims.

Here's to reduced brake dust compared to the TRW stamped nonsense that came off (with >50% pad life remaining.) The mud I washed off the rims on a regular basis was appalling.

Had a real time getting the pistons fully retracted on one of the fronts. Used more clamping force than I am proud of. Will be keeping an eye on that corner.
 
Powerstop Z36 on both axles of 2014 Ram 3500. Silicone brake lube on all sliders and shims.

Here's to reduced brake dust compared to the TRW stamped nonsense that came off (with >50% pad life remaining.) The mud I washed off the rims on a regular basis was appalling.

Had a real time getting the pistons fully retracted on one of the fronts. Used more clamping force than I am proud of. Will be keeping an eye on that corner.
And today that caliper got replaced with a reman unit. Hate to use a parts store reman but 1/2 the cost of getting a new mopar unit shipped from rock auto and I don't have the time. (Family trip pulling the camper next week/weekend.) I reused my old frame and sliders with their caliper. (Their sliders looked horrible.) Mopar dealer was too long a wait and 50% more than rock auto.

The caliper had been working fine, but forcing the pistons in against their will was the end. Must've had a cruddy section in the bore and locked the pistons up bad enough they wouldn't freely retract in normal service. It acted fine on initial drives but last night it drug and overheated on a short trip. First I've had that on a pad slap.

Rotor seems to have survived with only 0.002" lateral runout. New pads seemed salvageable. Will be watching them all with an IR gun. Took a long trip today and all seems well.

Lesson: don't do work on your truck before a big trip. And certainly don't do elective work before a big trip. Who'd a though a pad slap would have had complications.
 
2005 Toyota Matrix
168k miles

The brakes had some pulsation and the pads wore a little unevenly (pads were rusted to the clips). Rotors are original Toyota units.

Off: whatever came pre-installed on the NAPA reman calipers about 5 years ago.
On: Famous Brand (aka Carquest Platinum) ceramic pads from Rock Auto. Can't beat $8 for top quality pads!

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2007 Cadillac CTS
174k miles

Front pads only
OFF: Raybestos EHT
ON: Carquest Platinum ceramic
Fluid: Shop Pro (Autozone) DOT 3

This job started as a simple pad slap but then I had to open the bleeder to compress the calipers (if ya open em ya gotta bleed em). But then I realized that I haven't flushed the fluid in about 3 years so I flushed em, too. So the 1 hour pad slap turned into a 2 hour pad slap + flush. At least the weather was nice (80s) and I didn't need a cooling towel to prevent heat stroke...

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And today that caliper got replaced with a reman unit. Hate to use a parts store reman but 1/2 the cost of getting a new mopar unit shipped from rock auto and I don't have the time. (Family trip pulling the camper next week/weekend.) I reused my old frame and sliders with their caliper. (Their sliders looked horrible.) Mopar dealer was too long a wait and 50% more than rock auto.

The caliper had been working fine, but forcing the pistons in against their will was the end. Must've had a cruddy section in the bore and locked the pistons up bad enough they wouldn't freely retract in normal service. It acted fine on initial drives but last night it drug and overheated on a short trip. First I've had that on a pad slap.

Rotor seems to have survived with only 0.002" lateral runout. New pads seemed salvageable. Will be watching them all with an IR gun. Took a long trip today and all seems well.

Lesson: don't do work on your truck before a big trip. And certainly don't do elective work before a big trip. Who'd a though a pad slap would have had complications.
Funny enough, I just came here searching to see if there were similar stories. I had posted in the other thread about putting some new rear pads and rotors on my Forester, and how pleased I was with the Bosch QuietCast stuff.

Went to take it to work today and hear a "shush shush shush shush" noise, and figured maybe I just needed to bed them in or get things squeezed a little to be parallel. Well, that didn't happen and so I turned around and its parked back in the driveway until I can get time to pull things apart again.

The rear caliper pistons looked really crusty, and I didn't want to try and push them back flush because I was worried they would tear the boot they were so bad. But I was also replacing the brakes because of the Raybestos EHTs that I had on that were kinda crusty, and assumed I had some rusty wear patterns causing the noise.

Now I wonder if I have a bad caliper or break hose that is the source of my problem, and its just been me ignoring it for too long. I have a reman caliper and new brake hose on order from Orelieys auto parts now to see if that will get it. Ill try to pull things apart again before then just to see if its something I did, or maybe I mushed up the backing plate somehow to cause it to rub on the back side? Anyway, thanks for posting that you had to do some things that might have caused an issue.
 
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2018 Mk7.5 GTI Performance ~51k miles

front and rear rotors and pads (340x30mm & 310x22mm)
off: factory VW rotors (SHW made) and pads (Jurid 310-A GG and Galfer GA8135 FG)
on: SHW Performance two-piece fully floating rotors (VFX43901, same as VW 5Q0615301P) on front and OE VW (SHW made) on rear with Pagid Street+ pads and some VW hardware

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1992 Chevy Blazer K1500
Off: whatever O’Reilly, then Kragen at the time had for rotors, pads and shoes. Stock GM drums.
On: Raybestos EHT pads and rotors. Reman calipers. Raybestos R-line drums, Powerstop shoes, Dorman hardware, adjusters and wheel cylinders.

2019 Lexus RXh, rear pads:
Off: OEM Toyota Akebono pads
On: ditto.
 
03' Solara. Rear drums. 130k . Some of the shoe pins rusted away from road salt. Installed new ones, bleed and adjust. Thru on a set of new drums since they were original. Shoes are still good ! About 1/2 gone. Wheel cylinders were fine. All other hardware was fine. Not too easy of a brake job. Put a dab of silicone on backing plate where pins go thru to keep the salt out. SALT BELT is terrible. It will find it's way into everything and just start eating.
 
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