Polling the Supertech Crowd

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I thought it would be interesting to poll the BITOG users... Who is using Supertech and also to encourage the "Lurkers" to join and contribute as well.

1) Conventional or Synthetic
2) Grade?
3) What is your OCI?
4) How long have you used it?
5) General results on how it has worked for you?

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I myself have used it in my Beater '95 Neon back in the day and used their conventional 5w30.



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1)Synthetic, but not averse to Conventional
2)5w30 and 5w20
3)3750 to 5000 miles
4)First time was 5w20 in my (SOLD) 12 Sonata 2.4 GDi
5)Worked just as well as M1, PP or anything else

currently in my Sportage (5w30 Syn)
 
well, with SN+ and GF-5 approvals I wounder what the consensus is for DIT use.

I would consider trying the full syn on a shorter OCI at least to start.
 
Originally Posted by FA_WRX
well, with SN+ and GF-5 approvals I wounder what the consensus is for DIT use.

I would consider trying the full syn on a shorter OCI at least to start.


It's dexos1Gen2 and SN+, so it is a nonissue to me. I'll run it in the Santa Fe TGDi as well.
 
First time I tried it was in my 1992 Subaru Loyal. Was conventional, probably 10w30 or 10w40, maybe both at different times. Seemed to work fine. Then I bought a 97 Sonoma (4.3 V6) from a buddy, he ran the first 92k miles on Mobil1 5w30. I continued with that for a while, but eventually switched to ST syn 5w30 (at probably 125k miles) and continued running that until I traded it in at 198k. (6k mile OCI the entire time) That engine was still running great. The new ride was a 2005 Colorado with the 3.5 I5 engine. Ran ST syn 5w30 for quite a while, then started switching back and forth with Formula Shell syn 5w30. I would guess I used about 50/50 between the Shell and ST over the years. I bought it with 6,250 miles, and at about 190k it started to puff blue smoke upon startup if I had driven about 30 minutes of highway prior to shutting down, the next 2 fills were PP 5w30, seem to clear up that problem with the smoke. (probably a dirty PCV or something) I ran 7,500 mile OCI for the life of that truck. Sold to my brother-in-law almost a year ago (at 204,400 miles), he drives it out to and around the farm and loves it. I now have a '16 Sierra, and I've performs 1 change, it's now full of ST 5w30 Dexos1 gen 2. Plan to keep using that whenever the OLM tells me to change it, for the foreseeable future.

My wife's Altima is currently filled with ST 0w20 syn. Plan to sell that as soon as spring hits, her late mother's Volvo s60 is in the garage ready to take over the job. No ST for that s60, however, because it requires 5w30 ACEA A5/B5.

Our '99 s70 gets whatever 10w30 is cheap. It's had a LOT of ST, both syn and conventional over the past 262k miles. It's next change with be Harvest King, I just discovered a local farm store that carries that for $1.99/qt.
 
my dad used supertech conventional in my truck when he owned it. Its made it to 251k miles so far. I just put synthetic in the buick a couple weeks ago. Hasnt blown up yet. I plan to run 5k mile intervals.
 
Originally Posted by StevieC
I thought it would be interesting to poll the BITOG users... Who is using Supertech and also to encourage the "Lurkers" to join and contribute as well.

1) Conventional or Synthetic
2) Grade?
3) What is your OCI?
4) How long have you used it?
5) General results on how it has worked for you?

1. Synthetic
2. 5w30
3. 5k miles
4. Off and on for the last 10 years or so
5. It's oil. It works.
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I've never noticed a difference in the way any of my engines run from the brand of oil. I use Supertech when I need to buy oil and the Napa-brand synthetic is not on sale. I buy whichever is cheaper. It's synthetic and will easily last for my conservative 5k interval.
 
I've used it often. Full synthetic for 7500 and conventional for 5k. Never done a uoa before but 2 of my cars have over 140k and running strong.
 
1) Synthetic
2) 0w20
3) 5000(Lexus Maintenance light)
4) 1st OCI
5) Just as good as anything. Honestly I run LG Biotech as well, but this combo is actually quieter than the PP/Biotech I had run before. Much cheaper as well and really at 5K OCI's, I think i'm going to stick with it.
 
1) Synthetic and HDEO
2) Syn 5w30HM, 10w30HM, HDEO 15w40
3) synthetic -185 hours, HDEO - 155 hours
4) Used off and on for the past year.
5) It has worked well. The 5w30FSHM has coincided with piston slap in the rav4, but will switch over to blending it with the 15w40 50/50 after to target a 3.5 HTHS mix. I use HDEO in a Kia Rio, and once i exhaust my supply of Delvac, I'll switch over. Not afraid of CJ4/SN if they don't have CK4/SN+. I want to try their 10w40 or SAE HD30 for a run in my Rav or Kia Rio. I can't find UOA or VOA on HD monogrades, so I don't know how long to use it.
 
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I've used Supertech 5w-30,10w-30 full synthetic ever since this stuff came out two decades ago. My 2007 GMC Canyon went the first 150,000 miles on ST with no problems. I only switched it over Fram full synthetic(ConocoPhillips)because I was able to buy several cases for a dollar a quart. My 1993 chevy pickup went 220,000 on ST 10w-30, before I gave it to my Dad. No problems there either. My Mazda Protege had 100,000 on it using ST 10w-30 when I gave it to my brother. All these vehicles were run with a 10,000 mile OCI. Note: the Chevy(295,000) and the Mazda(150,000) have been recently been reaquired by me and are currently running SMB semi-synthetic 10w-30 from Dollar Tree.
 
Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
For the thickies:



My wife seems to want a new Hyundai 2.0T. I fully intend on using the 5w40 supertech syn.

I've used supertech synthethic and maxlife blend in a 17 year old ford 4.6 2v for years. Zero issues. Scope into the valve cover shows nice and clean cams and valve train.

Just as clean as my daily driver Tacoma that's been "babied" with 5-8k oci with Mobil 1 and Valvoline full synthetic.

I'm a firm believer that you should choose the appropriate spec and grade in whatever bottle color/design/brand makes you FEEL most comfortable, since that's all the difference really is anyway.
 
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Super Tech Synthetic 0w20 5q Dexos1 Gen2

I run in 10k miles in the 2017 Rav4 and 7500 Miles in the 2012 Mazda3.

Both call for 0w20.

$16 for a 5quart jug, it's a no brainer. Especially when I got it for 20% off with some special online Google Market deal.

Once I go through the 6 jugs I have stashed, I will probably get more 0w20 from Rural King for $11.99 for a 5qt jug that meets Dexos1 Gen 2 as well.
 
1) Both, mainly Synthetic HM now since it is so cheap.
2) 0w20, 5w20, 5w30, 10w30
3) 5K to 10K
4) Many years
5) Works fine.
 
I used the ST Syn few times in a older Ford Focus I had. Dad uses the ST 10w30 conventional for 3,500-4,000 miles in his 03' Dakota without issues.

I'm glad it's not made by CITGO in my region
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My stash has never been low enough from the AZ and Advance Auto parts clearances to use SuperTech. When i was doing alot of family and friends oil changes I used Smittys from Kmart...

If i ever hit bottom on my stash i will probably use Rural King oil.. just because i want the Rural King to stay in my area and i know that Walmart will stay regardless.
 
Wow that 5w40 "meets" Porsche A40 specs. That must be some pretty good stuff in that bottle. (Yes I know not officially licensed).

I would like to do a VOA on the 5w40 and the 5w30 and see if it's the same formula just blended into the 5w30 or what changes between the two.

Hmmm... Maybe a couple cheap Wix 24077 UOA Kits from Rock Auto.
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I put some ST synthetic in my 10 year old Lawnmower and the carburetor fell off. Put the carb back on drained that Walmart junk out and poured in some > and it ran fine.
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There is always one naysayer so I thought I would jump the line.

The point was made that with rebates and clearance sales you can get synthetic oil (equal or better than ST) for >$12. I'm never have less than 2-3 OCIs worth on the shelf for each car. Average price is about $10/jug.

If that was not available ST would be the next choice.
 
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