Redline 5w30 would be a good choice if you’re willing to spend a little more $ and also order it.
I don’t think a very long drain oil is what he’s looking for. He needs the things that an approval like A40 brings.M1 EP 10W-30 "Protects For 20K Miles*"
M1 0W-40 "Protects For 10K Miles*"
Whatever "Protects" mean ...
I have used both for 7500 miles OCIs. Mostly use the 10W-30.
Just based on experiences with 4 different engines, I prefer the 10W-30 and I know that it has no "Euro" writings! We'll save the Euro for the "Euro" guys. lol
After speaking with a couple different intelligent people on the subject, the nearly unanimous consensus is that any engine that does not burn oil can run Euro levels of additives, which can result in a more robust oil, and therefore better protection for the engine.Just based on experiences with 4 different engines, I prefer the 10W-30 and I know that it has no "Euro" writings! We'll save the Euro for the "Euro" guys. lol
Or use a mid- to low-SAPS Euro oil such as one with BMW Longlife-04 or VW 504 00 approval. Same HT/HS and other important attributes. Find one that’s also ACEA C3.After speaking with a couple different intelligent people on the subject, the nearly unanimous consensus is that any engine that does not burn oil can run Euro levels of additives, which can result in a more robust oil, and therefore better protection for the engine.
API = lower sulfated ash = catalytic converters last a little longer
Euro = higher sulfated ash = if you burn oil, your cats will die an inhumane death, and PETA will be hounding you!
OK, the inhumane death and PETA were my additions. As mentioned a few times, the "performance-based" German certifications are much more stringent than API, and most happen to have "Euro" levels of additives (full- or mid-SAPS).
After speaking with a couple different intelligent people on the subject, the nearly unanimous consensus is that any engine that does not burn oil can run Euro levels of additives, which can result in a more robust oil, and therefore better protection for the engine.
API = lower sulfated ash = catalytic converters last a little longer
Euro = higher sulfated ash = if you burn oil, your cats will die an inhumane death, and PETA will be hounding you!
OK, the inhumane death and PETA were my additions. As mentioned a few times, the "performance-based" German certifications are much more stringent than API, and most happen to have "Euro" levels of additives (full- or mid-SAPS).
Your helpful guidance here on C3 allowed me to use 20 quarts of Motul that I got for a deal but had sold the car it was intended for before I used it. It’s currently running well in my SubaruOr use a mid- to low-SAPS Euro oil such as one with BMW Longlife-04 or VW 504 00 approval. Same HT/HS and other important attributes. Find one that’s also ACEA C3.
I was really leaning towards going with Mobil 1 0w40. But it’s high saps I believe. Is this an issue to use in a TGDI engine?Or use a mid- to low-SAPS Euro oil such as one with BMW Longlife-04 or VW 504 00 approval. Same HT/HS and other important attributes. Find one that’s also ACEA C3.
I have the same car like you, a 16’ ST1. Ran PUP 5w-30 in it but took it out as I noticed an oil leak. I personally believe Pup is too thin for this application. So now I’m running Mobil 1 Euro 0w-40 with a Fram titanium FE3600 filter, the bigger filter that allows you to dump 6 qts instead of the 5.7. That’s the only oil I’ll use in the car apart from splurging big bucks on hpl or amsoil.Hello everybody I am new here to the forum. But have read a lot on here prior to joining.
I have a modified 2017 ford focus ST.
It is a TGDI engine.
I am trying to find the best oil for my application.
Currently I am running Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30 API-SP (Resource Conserving).
Is this a good oil for my application?
I have read some threads on here stating to not use a resource conserving oil for high performance turbo charged applications. So I am curious about this because I thought Pennzoil ultra platinum was a very good oil, but it is labeled as resource conserving.
Any help from some of the knowledgeable members on here to help me find a good oil for my application would be much appreciated.
Thank you.
I have the same car like you, a 16’ ST1. Ran PUP 5w-30 in it but took it out as I noticed an oil leak. I personally believe Pup is too thin for this application. So now I’m running Mobil 1 Euro 0w-40 with a Fram titanium FE3600 filter, the bigger filter that allows you to dump 6 qts instead of the 5.7. That’s the only oil I’ll use in the car apart from splurging big bucks on hpl or amsoil.
Hello everybody I am new here to the forum. But have read a lot on here prior to joining.
I have a modified 2017 ford focus ST.
It is a TGDI engine.
I am trying to find the best oil for my application.
Currently I am running Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30 API-SP (Resource Conserving).
Is this a good oil for my application?
I have read some threads on here stating to not use a resource conserving oil for high performance turbo charged applications. So I am curious about this because I thought Pennzoil ultra platinum was a very good oil, but it is labeled as resource conserving.
Any help from some of the knowledgeable members on here to help me find a good oil for my application would be much appreciated.
Thank you.
You want the best oil for your application, which means the best of the best. SP is out of the question , you need an oil that either meets the CK-4 spec or 1 of the Euro Specs. We do have a certain member on this board who is using a CK-4 speced oil in an application that is speked for SP. That is his choice, back to your situation, you have a modified engine here, not a Granny driven vehicle. You need an oil with a good HTHS Number, which PUP 5W-30 does not have.
I would think Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 would be a good choice, but it is not the best of the best. I would give the guys at HPL a call and they can steer you towards the best oil that they have for your application. I am not an HPL Fan Boy, but I did reach out to a member here who switched to HPL and his observations are that this oil is better than what he was using before.
I have in my mind what the best oil application wise from HPL is, but Dave from HPL is better to answer your question!
I’d really like to stick with an off the shelf oil that I can buy locally.
If the high saps Mobil 1 0w40 wouldn’t be good for my application. I was also looking at the Mobil 1 ESP 5w30. It is a heavy 30 weight with higher HTHS and low saps. So I agree that it might be a good option for my TGDI engine.
I would still prefer to go with Mobil 1 FS 0w40 if the high saps content isn’t much of a concern for TGDI. What is everyone’s opinion on this?
Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 would also be a good oil 2 use, do you want low saps or High saps? If the engine is modified and you are driving it like you stole it, does it really matter.
Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 or Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30, really cannot see what the issue is here.
No issue, I just don’t know a whole lot about all of these different oils and all the specs, but I want to learn. That’s why I joined the forum here.
And honestly I don’t know what difference it would make high saps vs low saps for my vehicle. I’ve just read that some people prefer low saps for TGDI engines. But I’m not 100% sure why. I’m assuming it’s just due to intake valve deposits. I’m not too concerned about intake valve deposits though. I’ve seen ecoboost engines with 100k+ miles without the valves being cleaned and the cars run fine. If I do ever have issues with carbon build up on the valves than I would do a walnut blast on the valves anyways.
I have decided on either Mobil 1 FS 0w40 or Mobil 1 esp 5w30 or the esp 0w40.
I’m just not sure which one out of those 3.
And I know it portably won’t matter. All three of these oils have good certifications that should definitely be adequate for my needs. I have just been rather OCD in picking oil for my car lately.
I just run the mishimoto catch can and don’t worry about valve deposits. I manually cleaned out the valves at 60k miles and I’m now sitting at 140k. Haven’t checked on their condition since then. I’m not worried tho.I would love to run Mobil 1 0w40 it’s a very stout oil for a high performance application.
It is a high saps oil though. And some are saying not the best choice for TGDI. But I don’t know if I buy into that.
High saps might create more intake valve deposits possibly? I’m not sure.
I know the new formula of Mobil 1 0w40 is API SP rated. So that is a plus to help with LSPI