One Oil, Two Vehicles

[dave1251]

Originally Posted By: HondaBroMike
his CRV's warranty won't allow for anything less or "greater" than a 0w-20, book it, I mean, warranty book it. Nice try guys but good information for people out there with beaters. Op, I used a 55 cent per Quart oil or 1.55 cent jug oil in my 17 Civic and it has eliminated a grind I would have at startup. I would like to see any of these other recommendations actual fix quirky and inconsistent issues like this, I would vegas book it. Doesn't need any Euro certs, nor BMW not none of that.. but yeah. none of that. Just API SN donut and than it's own UOA and user "testimonials" stuff reported like what I just did.


Is Honda providing free oil? If not it really does not matter the grade. I doubt most people understand this fact.

 

[Ruby2013Elantra]

Maybe I'll give Idemitsu Zepro Touring 5W-30. Its on the Dexos 1 Gen 2 list. I like giving oils I cannot find easily a go. Not really saving money, but its like my wife and her shoe shopping.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: Ruby2013Elantra
Good to know my gut feeling about a 5W-30 is looking to be a better option.

SirTanon, how do I tell if an oil is more shear-stable or not? I'm not overly familiar with that.


Nobody publishes the shear stability of oil that I know of. Only way I've seen is to compare UOA viscosity to the published viscosity at 100C. And how much the oil shears down is dependent of the engine itself, and the mileage on the oil, and how the vehicle is driven.

As an example, look at the UOA viscosity vs published KV100 data viscosity ("virgin viscosity") in this table, and you can see how some oils shear down much more than others.

https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/official-gt-5-0-boss-302-uoa-thread.805918/

 

[HondaBroMike]

Originally Posted By: dave1251
Originally Posted By: HondaBroMike
his CRV's warranty won't allow for anything less or "greater" than a 0w-20, book it, I mean, warranty book it. Nice try guys but good information for people out there with beaters. Op, I used a 55 cent per Quart oil or 1.55 cent jug oil in my 17 Civic and it has eliminated a grind I would have at startup. I would like to see any of these other recommendations actual fix quirky and inconsistent issues like this, I would vegas book it. Doesn't need any Euro certs, nor BMW not none of that.. but yeah. none of that. Just API SN donut and than it's own UOA and user "testimonials" stuff reported like what I just did.


Is Honda providing free oil? If not it really does not matter the grade. I doubt most people understand this fact.


No and they shouldn't need to, I am saying with manufacturer and AAP clearances, it's practically free anyway. And there is some really good oils that go out of style due to new certs like SN plus, for example. The point is price shouldn't dictate elite oil nor should certifications apart from API etc., it's all UOAs and VOAs.

 

[BrocLuno]

Originally Posted By: SirTanon
I'm in Phoenix too. Since we pretty much never get what I consider to be a 'proper' winter, the first number in the oil really isn't terribly relevant - a 5w30 will act pretty much just like a 10w30, for example. What I would focus on is more the base stock of the oil and how shear-stable it will be (including any viscosity modifiers in the add pack).


I'm not citing 0W because you need it for winter, but to get the base stocks and add pack that come with it. Something like M1 0W-30 ESP X ... One change a year for each vehicle and cruise on

 

[CharBaby]

5W30's(dino or syn) are my go to oils and I prefer them to the 5W20/0W20 for the Mazda & Nissan respectively in my signature. ATMOF, I use 5W30 in all 3 vehicles in my sig.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Ruby2013Elantra
I'm an enthusiastic reader of the forum, rarely post, but I love the information I learn. I have a dilemma and wanted to run it by the forum. I have two vehicles and want to buy just one oil, if possible.

Location: Phoenix, AZ so its hot and its dusty (especially during monsoon season)

Vehicle One
2006 Ford F-150 4.6L V8
Current Oil: Schaeffer Supreme 9000 5W-20
Oil Filter: Fram Ultra Synthetic
OCI: 9000ish miles (follows vehicle two OCI reminder)
Driving Habits: 60 miles round trip five days a week, majority freeway

Vehicle Two
2017 Honda CR-V 1.5L Turbo
Current Oil: Schaeffer Supreme 9000 0W-20
Oil Filter: Fram Ultra Synthetic
OCI: follow the MaintenanceMinder (7000ish miles)
Driving Habits: 30 miles round trip work days and weekend driving, majority city driving

Gut Feeling Oil Choice: Schaeffer Supreme 9000 5W-30


My main concern is protection and of course LSPI in the CR-V. To battle LSPI I run 91 octane and change the engine air filter religiously (read somewhere that it's helpful). Schaeffer is not Dexos 1, Gen 2 certified but I had already bought a case of the oil and using it up. I'm a fan of Schaeffer and I would like to stick with it, but options are limited with the brand. Like I said, my gut feeling is a 5W-30, but wanted to get the input of the forum.

Thank you in advance.



Seeing where you reside I'd use any good synthetic 5W30 oil. A few years ago I pondered this as well for my three vehicles two of which call for 5W20 and one 5W30. After some soul searching and speaking with people that know a lot more than I, I landed on PU 5W30 for all three. No regrets, no second thoughts. The Schaffers oil you mentioned sounds good, although you can probably pick something up from WMT having the Dexos 1 Gen 2 certification and have your engine last just as long.

 

[DuckRyder]

Originally Posted By: dave1251
Originally Posted By: HondaBroMike
his CRV's warranty won't allow for anything less or "greater" than a 0w-20, book it, I mean, warranty book it. Nice try guys but good information for people out there with beaters. Op, I used a 55 cent per Quart oil or 1.55 cent jug oil in my 17 Civic and it has eliminated a grind I would have at startup. I would like to see any of these other recommendations actual fix quirky and inconsistent issues like this, I would vegas book it. Doesn't need any Euro certs, nor BMW not none of that.. but yeah. none of that. Just API SN donut and than it's own UOA and user "testimonials" stuff reported like what I just did.


Is Honda providing free oil? If not it really does not matter the grade. I doubt most people understand this fact.


What are you talking about? If you are suggesting that the MMWA requires Honda to provide free oil or you get a pass on following the recommendations then you are right most people don’t understand that because it isn’t correct.

As for the original post, the F150 won’t care... The CRV cares and I doubt anyone would argue that the 1.5T is easy on oil, they appear to be fuel diluters though there may be some relationship to the climate.

I’d run 0/20 with a D1G2 approval, but if you really are willing to take your chances with he Warranty then look up the Honda recommendation for something with a 1.5T in a tropical climate and follow that.

 

[Imp4]

Originally Posted By: parshisa
Buy two jugs: 0W20 and 5w30. Return 0w20, keep receipt. Use 5w30 and enjoy the car

Hey yeah, fraud, great idea!

 

[parshisa]

Fraud is recommending to run synthetic blend oil for 10,000 mi in the turbocharged engine that dilutes and shears oil like carzy. Fraud is allow to run 0w20 only when the rest of the world allows huge varite of oil weights depending on conditions. That is FRAUD. Do You want to continue?

 

[BrocLuno]

It's about the turbo DI and it's requirements for long life and low intake deposits ... The F-150 does not care. Who has the best long term experience with small DI Honda's and can tell us what works best? UOA's and bore scope peeks at the intake tracts. How often does it need intake cleaning? We need some better info here. Opinions (including mine) are a penny a dozen. Who's a Honda tech that has seen this stuff up close ...

What's the chatter over on the Honda boards?

 

[Imp4]

Originally Posted By: parshisa
Fraud is recommending to run synthetic blend oil for 10,000 mi in the turbocharged engine that dilutes and shears oil like carzy. Fraud is allow to run 0w20 only when the rest of the world allows huge varite of oil weights depending on conditions. That is FRAUD. Do You want to continue?

With all due respect,what you've described above is definitely not fraud.
But let's not let facts get in the way of passionate feelings.

Fraud: (noun) wrongful or criminal deception intended to result in financial or personal gain.

This is exactly what you were suggesting when you said:
Originally Posted By: parshira
Buy two jugs: 0W20 and 5w30. Return 0w20, keep receipt. Use 5w30 and enjoy the car

Fraud, plain and simple.

Here's why: no reasonable person would do what you suggested. A reasonable person would only buy the product they intended to use, then use it. Reasonable people would not engage in receipt/return shenanigans

If you'd like to continue, then yes, let's.

 

[nap]

Lol. So when EPA employees do something silly, for personal and/or financial gain, it somehow should be called “regulations”, not fraud? And you shall obey without questioning?

 

[parshisa]

Thanks for your input. I’ll take it as a 100% pure North American hipocrisy. Cheers

 

[TheLawnRanger]

Delete

 

[Imp4]

Originally Posted By: nap
Lol. So when EPA employees do something silly, for personal and/or financial gain, it somehow should be called “regulations”, not fraud? And you shall obey without questioning?

Wait, what?!?
Who says you should obey anything without questioning???

If you can't see the leap between questioning a regulation and advocating someone participate in deception, with plainly stated intent for personal gain, then unfortunately, there really insn't an intelligent discussion to be had.

 

[nap]

I would discuss this further if you agree to have the discussion at conceptual level not personal attack. You brought in the standard of “reasonable”. Where does the whole story start to be unreasonable?

Would it be EPA’s requirement that the car manufacturer unequivocally makes available and recommends a particular oil, the one that was used for the standardized fuel economy testing? Regardless of the particular climate and usage conditions that the car will be actually used in? From Alaska to Mexico?

Would it be the car manufacturer absolute obedience when writing the manual, without any hint to the consumer that other oils could ever be used, and that they might be more appropriate outside the conditions that were used for the standardized testing?

Would it be the guys who wrote the standardized testing methodology, and that didn’t take into account variances in climatic and usage conditions?

Would it be the user, who is not willing to accept, without sufficient scientifc proof, that an “one size fits all” oil exists and is optimal under all conditions?

 

[Imp4]

Originally Posted By: nap
I would discuss this further if you agree to have the discussion at conceptual level not personal attack. You brought in the standard of “reasonable”. Where does the whole story start to be unreasonable?

Would it be EPA’s requirement that the car manufacturer unequivocally makes available and recommends a particular oil, the one that was used for the standardized fuel economy testing? Regardless of the particular climate and usage conditions that the car will be actually used in? From Alaska to Mexico?

Would it be the car manufacturer absolute obedience when writing the manual, without any hint to the consumer that other oils could ever be used, and that they might be more appropriate outside the conditions that were used for the standardized testing?

Would it be the guys who wrote the standardized testing methodology, and that didn’t take into account variances in climatic and usage conditions?

Would it be the user, who is not willing to accept, without sufficient scientifc proof, that an “one size fits all” oil exists and is optimal under all conditions?

Great googly moogly!

The manufacturer provides the oil recommendation, not the EPA.
The manufacturer can provide any oil recommendation they see fit.
How that constitutes EPA fraud is beyond me.

I stand by my original statement that parshira was advocating fraud when he said
Originally Posted By: parshira
Buy two jugs: 0W20 and 5w30. Return 0w20, keep receipt. Use 5w30 and enjoy the car


That is the only fradulent topic that has been proffered here.

 

[BrocLuno]

What's the EPA got to do with the OP's question ...

 

[nap]

Originally Posted By: Imp4

The manufacturer provides the oil recommendation, not the EPA.
The manufacturer can provide any oil recommendation they see fit.


That is not totally accurate. There is a copy of a letter from EPA, floating here and in other forums, where EPA asks manufacturers that, if they use a specific oil for certification, then that particular oil shall be unequivocally promoted to the consumers.

https://iaspub.epa.gov/otaqpub/display_file.jsp?docid=14177&flag=1

So what I outlined in my previous post still stands.