Oil for engine break in?

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Gotta get you one of those machines
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delo sae 30 and a bottle of lucas tb zinc plus
used the same when i broke in my flat tappet 350 in my old chevy c30 and it is still running till this day.
 
Thanks for the replies. The motor is all broken in and seems to be working fine.
 
Before the first start on the new motor remove the crank sensor and prime the engine to build oil pressure. Run the car at idle for 20 minutes and drain the oil. You can use Castrox GTX conventional as you'll be draining it.

You can proceed to run Motul break in oil 10w40 for the next 1k miles.
 
NEVER run a new motor on first start at idle. The crank is not spinning fast enough to sling oil to the cam. Minimum is 2,000 rpm. Best procedure is 2,000 to 2,500 and vary it up and down.

That break-in procedure is published by every cam grinder I know, or have ever read about.

To GARAK's point - I don't have customers. I build engines for me and my friends (at cost). I have worked in shops for other people wrenching for wages, back in the day.

COMP flat cams were a known phenomena just like GM's. Cam cores were too soft and so were their lifter faces. But their "not so good" break-in oil helped speed things along nicely
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There are literally million of weekend racers and street guys who have never lost a cam by just using good premium oil. And getting that motor running, and then running it. Like new cars, folks wanna go ... And that's good for the valve train. Start it and go. Spin that motor. It will last a lot longer.

You can baby an engine for longevity after it's broken in
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That's true - follow appropriate directions, and avoid the blog.
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A specific break in lube, though, follows the philosophy of high anti-wear without friction modification to speed break in. And, of course, many have done fine with an ordinary oil.
 
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