Oil Filter Torque Figures

[ChristianReske]

I said every manual I've had ... not every manual ever printed.

I always use a torque wrench on P-gasket (torque stop) type filters because it's that torque that crams the circumfernce of the filter can into the mounting seat. So it's more along the lines of torquing down a giant nut with a gasket on it. For square cut base gaskets, I do the 2/3 to 3/4 turn from initial gasket contact on the mount seat.

I have a car that uses a Filter with a P-shaped gsaket, denso Torque-stop design. The manual and the instructions on the filter calls for 15-18 lb ft / 20-24 Nm or 7/8 turn. This car is notorius for vibrating oil filters loose.

But i never have Metall-to-Metall contact. Even if i torque it down with the maximun torque value, i still could turn it further and dont have Metall-to- Metall contact... ? I use my Hazet 3/8 torque wrench, this thing is precise. In the dedicated forum of the car other owners also mentions that this filter should make Metell-to-metall contact.

When i change this filter, i allways could open it with only a little "Oomph" from my wrist. Seems thight, but not Super thight.
I am always puzzled whats going on - Do i something wrong?

I have tried a different filter with a traditonal square cut gasket and found that it is much harder to remove, sits thighter. In my opinion a better, more safe solution for a car that is notorius for vibrating oil filters loose.

 

[NitroM3]

Safety Wiring Techniques | Hands On

The hows and whys of safety wiring

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Safety Wire the oil filter....

since you cant drill a hole in the filter what is the common method to wire up the filter?? Thanks!

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Cornerspeed Motorcycle Roadcourse Instruction and Track Days

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Um, well you missed a few key points to my post, 1 That I do race professionally, 2 Any official has the final say when you are safety inspected. Naturally you can contest or challenge their decision. So you can post all the internet found info u can find but at the track it’s a bit different .

 

[ChristianReske]

It's two turns from initial gasket contact because the threads on those Suzukis are super fine - and only works as mentioned in the manual (tighten two turns) if the OEM filter with the P-gasket it used. Same deal with my Hayabusa. I take it you use a torque wrench on that filter? The OEM filters have the torque spec printed on the filter.

No, back in the day suzuki gives no torque specs. Only "Two Turns". And back then, i dont had a full set of Torque wrenches. Only a 1/2".

 

[NitroM3]

No, back in the day suzuki gives no torque specs. Only "Two Turns". And back then, i dont had a full set of Torque wrenches. Only a 1/2".

You are not going to win he was already running for the internet to find flaw in our responses .

 

[ZeeOSix]

Um, well you missed a few key points to my post, 1 That I do race professionally, 2 Any official has the final say when you are safety inspected. Naturally you can contest or challenge their decision. So you can post all the internet found info u can find but at the track it’s a bit different .

LoL, the hose clamp with safety wire is pretty much an approved method. The only other option is a filter with a welded nut on it like a K&N. I wouldn't use a K&N because they can leak at the nut welds, which defeats the whole purpose of safety wire.

 

[ZeeOSix]

No, back in the day suzuki gives no torque specs. Only "Two Turns". And back then, i dont had a full set of Torque wrenches. Only a 1/2".

Like I said before, the torque was on the filter, and the "2 turns" spec would only be accurate with the OEM filter.

 

[ZeeOSix]

You are not going to win he was already running for the internet to find flaw in our responses .

I own a Busa, don't need no 'net.

 

[FordMan59]

I usually tighten them as tight as I can with my bare hands and they're usually a bit oily from getting some on them when removing the drain plug. It usually equates to about 3/4-1 turn after gasket contact. I can nearly always get them off by using my bare hands on my Fords but it always takes a large pair of channel locks or cap wrench to get them off the Nissan.

 

[NitroM3]

I own a Busa, don't need no 'net.

Busa are nice bikes, fast look good and handle great. I see my fair share of them in my side mirrors.

 

[NitroM3]

Double post: Sorry using the the cell phone to post and it seems to have a mind of its own

 

[ZeeOSix]

Busa manual ... says two turns, but also has a torque spec.

 

[NitroM3]

Busa manual ... says two turns, but also has a torque spec.

View attachment 71708

See did you even look at the picture u just posted for your Busa and look at my Honda I posted earlier?
Btw I have a full set of those filter tools from size 2-8

 

[ZeeOSix]

See did you even look at the picture u just posted for your Busa and look at my Honda I posted earlier?
Btw I have a full set of those filter tools from size 2-8

Yep ... and yes the Clymer manuals can be pretty good. I had one for an old car that I couldn't get a factory service manual for. Always came in handy.

 

[ChristianReske]

Like I said before, the torque was on the filter, and the "2 turns" spec would only be accurate with the OEM filter.

Errrrmm.... No.
In the 1989 Workshop Manual of my GSXR 1100 where only "2 Turns" mentioned. No torque spec.

Seems like Suzuki added the torque spec in the 90s or early 2000s. Who knows.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Errrrmm.... No.
In the 1989 Workshop Manual of my GSXR 1100 where only "2 Turns" mentioned. No torque spec.

Seems like Suzuki added the torque spec in the 90s or early 2000s. Who knows.

I think you're misunderstanding. I'm saying the torque spec was printed on the filter, not printed in the old manual. Yes, it only said "2 turns" in the manual, and as I said before the "2 turns" would only really work correctly with the OEM filter design with the P-gasket. Trying to do "2 turns" on a flat gasket aftermarket filter probably would not turn out well.

 

[ChristianReske]

Sorry, be patience with me, sometimes i struggle a little bit with your language.
If i remember correctly back then also on the Filter was only the "Two turns" instructions printed. . I am almost sure. Almost!

Of course you are right, 2 turns will only work with a Suzuki Filter with O-ring gasket, not on a aftermaket filter with a flat gasket. I am aware of this.
I remember soeme "funny" discussions about this in German Forums...

 

[ChristianReske]

I just have flipped randomly through the MAHLE online catalouge.
No matter wich car maker or year, if the oil filter has a traditonal square gasket: 20Nm / 14.75 lb ft is reccomended.
If the oil filter has O-ring or P-shaped gasket: 16 Nm / 11.8 lb ft is reccomended.
I simply will use this Torque reccomendations in Future.

 

[ZeeOSix]

I don't recall which vehicles I did this test on (it was many years ago), but I did this test on a couple different cars. I wanted to verify if the "3/4 turn" spec on the side of the filter was going to be the same tighness as if the torque spec called out was used. So I used a torque wrench and torqued the filter (base gasket oiled of course) and the filter indeed did end up at approx 3/4 turn after the base gasket first contacted the mounting seat. After that, I never used a torque wrench on flat base gasket designed filters ... but still do on P-gasket type filters for the reason I gave earlier in this thread.

 

[ChristianReske]

Yes, i was thinking the same. I will try to observe if i end with 3/4 turns when using the torque wrench.
Using a torque wrench is still much simpler in my opinion, especially for hobby mechanics that maybe do only one or two filter changes per year.

 

[gregk24]

I just tighten as hard as I can by hand and call it a day.

I will follow this up. My "tightening by hand" may not be with the same force some of you would be able to achieve.