Oil Filter Torque Figures

[Cristobal]

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: Cristobal
I have always tightened filters by hand alone. I reckon it comes to about 25 to 30 foot pounds for me.


Sure ... what's that put the turns at, about 1-1/2?

From the point I meet resistance - probably.

 

[y_p_w]

I remember the label of several Honda filters (along with the factory service manual) said spin until initial contact, then tighten maybe 3/4 turn with a suitable tool like a cap wrench. They had numbers on the filter from 1 to 8. They also have a torque specification. I've never done that. I always just crank on as tight as I can by hand. Some filters installed by someone else were on so tight I suspect that the last installer used a cap wrench and tightened more than a turn.

When I was finally able to get to the filter on my wife's Civic, the thing barely resisted. I'm not sure if it was because it was never on that tight or because it came loose over a year and a half. We put almost all the miles with long trips, but my wife would typically drive it 5-10 miles and often round trips that doubled that. I figure Honda says that filters every other change are OK, although I'm going to change the filter every time from now on.

Now what I'd like to do is install a trench like I've seen at several shops that do a lot of oil changes. It's not about saving money, but maybe showing it off to the neighbors.

 

[Merkava_4]

I changed the oil today and I was playing around with torque figures. I thought the filter would need 200 inch pounds, but 1/2 that is PLENTY tight. I was very surprised. Actually, I could've got by with 80 inch pounds, but 100 is even tighter than I can do by hand. Oh, and that is with a well oiled filter seal.

 

[hattaresguy]

I just go probably half a turn past hand tight, no need to torque filters to 800ft pounds.

Same with drain plugs, open end wrench just a bit past snug.

I hate doing a vehicle after a shop or a dealer has done it. For some reason they must think the FSM on every engine requires you to tighten the filter and drain plug with a 1/2 air gun cranked to max!

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: hattaresguy
I just go probably half a turn past hand tight, no need to torque filters to 800ft pounds.


A half turn more past hand tight is probably too tight. Even with a PureOne with the grippy texture, it takes a lot of hand tightening to get to 3/4 turn after the base gasket makes first contact with he seat.

 

[Hosteen]

That is not a problem with Denso and Toyota oil filters as they have a piece made into the base which acts as a stop to keep from over tightening the filter. I put them on by hand and take them off by hand. Regards

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: Hosteen
That is not a problem with Denso and Toyota oil filters as they have a piece made into the base which acts as a stop to keep from over tightening the filter. I put them on by hand and take them off by hand. Regards


What's happening with the Denso/Toyota oil filter is that "P-ring" compresses until the can hits the seat ... that's what stops the filter from turning any more. I personally don't like that design because the can of the filter can mar up the seat.

 

[ChristianReske]

Any news here?

I allways have a hard time with the "3/4 turn" by hand, because i never figure out the correct starting point. It´s +/- a 1/8 turn. Therefore i allways want to use a torque wrench.

The mahle germany aftermarket catalouge gives toruqe specs for their oil filters, for filters with O-Ring or Denso-Toyota torque stop gasket they call for 16 Nm / 12 lb ft , for oil filters with a traditional square shaped rubber gasket they call for 20 Nm / 14.75 lb ft.

TecDoc

TecDoc Catalogue by TecAlliance - one of the world's leading global vehicle and spare parts catalogues for the automotive aftermarket based on the TecDoc standard.

web.tecalliance.net

Think this torque specs are on the thight side, but generally O.K. Any news and thoughts?

 

[DEWFPO]

Any news here?

I allways have a hard time with the "3/4 turn" by hand, because i never figure out the correct starting point. It´s +/- a 1/8 turn. Therefore i allways want to use a torque wrench.

? Spin the filter freely until it stops on it's own, then 3/4 turn. Very simple, always works, never too tight or too loose. Mark it with a sharpie to get precise, accurate 3/4 turn rotation if you want. +/- 1/8 turn doesn't matter.

 

[ChristianReske]

Thanks. Maybe i am clumsy, but i allways have a hard time doing this. To make things worse, on of my cars is notorius for vibrating oil filters loose, wich ends in lost engiens and fires. Thats the reason why i prefer the torque wrench method.

Every other screw on a car or a motorcycle has a precise torque value, but not the oil flter....

 

[NitroM3]

Hand tightening an oil filters IMHO requires the experience of changes dozen or more filter in a short period of time to know how much force to use. I mean really think about this for a second...... not everyone's strength is the same. Think about those days in High School PE doing push ups. Some could do 100+ while other would be lucky to do 10. Part of that had to do with hand strength. I know some of you can spin a filter on and hand tighten it that would require a oil wrench to remove it.
My personal method that works for me is free spin it on until it stops and then 1/4 or 1/8 more depending on how thick the oil seal is. This after 100's of filter changes has never caused one to leak. This is my method and I am not suggesting that other do the same.

OK so now that I talked about push ups, how many of you can do figure tip and then 2 figure (thumb and index) pushups?

 

[ZeeOSix]

Thanks. Maybe i am clumsy, but i allways have a hard time doing this. To make things worse, on of my cars is notorius for vibrating oil filters loose, wich ends in lost engiens and fires. Thats the reason why i prefer the torque wrench method.

Get a hose clamp and some safety wire and do something like this. Not hard to do and low cost solution that can save motor.

Every other screw on a car or a motorcycle has a precise torque value, but not the oil flter....

I've seen oil filter torque specs in every service manual I've ever had.

 

[ZeeOSix]

My personal method that works for me is free spin it on until it stops and then 1/4 or 1/8 more depending on how thick the oil seal is. This after 100's of filter changes has never caused one to leak. This is my method and I am not suggesting that other do the same.

Only 1/8 to 1/4 turn after the base gasket first hits the seat is too low IMO. Going 2/3 to 3/4 turn is typically the sweet spot.

 

[NitroM3]

Only 1/8 to 1/4 turn after the base gasket first hits the seat is too low IMO. Going 2/3 to 3/4 turn is typically the sweet spot.

Well as a couple of have said it a feeling thing and I guess in my post I said I spin it down until its stops and then 1/4-1/8 but then when I work out I do figure tip push up. So I guess your 2/3-3/4 would be perhaps my 1/4-1/8

 

[NitroM3]

Get a hose clamp and some safety wire and do something like this. Not hard to do and low cost solution that can save motor.




I've seen oil filter torque specs in every service manual I've ever had.

Not sure that would ever pass NHRA,NASCAR OR SCCA inspection?
I think we all can agree that those specification will inmost every case when the next oil service is needed that they always require a oil filter wrench, strap, spanner , belt, filter remover cup or when all else fails *stabbing the fricken oil filter with a Philips driver and spinning it off. LOL
*Naturally the last is more in joking but I know when we all started to work on engine a kid/teen this had to have happened at least once.
Many Factory Service Manuals also "note" to oil the threads before installing a new oil filter as well.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Well as a couple of have said it a feeling thing and I guess in my post I said I spin it down until its stops and then 1/4-1/8 but then when I work out I do figure tip push up. So I guess your 2/3-3/4 would be perhaps my 1/4-1/8

The way it was worded, it sounded like you spun it on until it stops - meaning when the base gasket first hits the seat - then 1/8 to 1/4 turn from there.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Not sure that would ever pass NHRA,NASCAR OR SCCA inspection?

He's not formally racing it from what I understand. But I'm sure there are approved methods for official racing use. AFAIK, the photo I posted would pass inspection for racing motorcycles.

Many Factory Service Manuals also "note" to oil the threads before installing a new oil filter as well.

Never seen a service manual say oil the threads. Oil the gasket, yes ... but not the threads. The filter mounting stud will already have oil all over the threads.

 

[NitroM3]

The way it was worded, it sounded like spun it on until it stops - meaning when the base gasket first hits the seat - then 1/8 to 1/4 turn from there.

That's exactly what I worded it . And I also said the way I do it! I also said that not everybody has the same hand strength as well. And I also suggested the idea that changing oil filters in a limited quantity does not necessarily build experience on the level of how much you need to tighten an oil filter as in an occasional person that changes a few a year. You and I have likely changed several hundred or more and know how to install an oil filter without thinking twice or worrying about it leaking or needing to be King Kong to remove it on the next service.

 

[Hermann]

1 medium grunt after the gasket makes contact.

 

[ChristianReske]

I've seen oil filter torque specs in every service manual I've ever had.

Hmm.... Not in everyone.
And, for example: A car is equipped with a "Denso torque stop" filter from the factory where the car maker gives torque Specs, but if a want to use a different Aftermarket filter with a square shaped gasket this one has only printed "3/4 Turn" on it..
In my opinion, its easier and more safe to use a torque wrench. Just click it down and you are done.