Oil Change: Hot or Cold?

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Jul 1, 2014
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When doing an oil service is there any difference between draining the oil when it's cold or draining it when its up to operating temperature?

I always made sure the engine is hot, but does it actually make any difference?

How about in the winter, when it is cold outside? 0W20 seems to flow very easily even at 0C. Do I need to warm up the engine first?
 
I always give the cars a good warmup. The oil drains quicker and more completely if you are limited in time. There is also an argument that running the engine will help put any contaminates in suspension to then be drained more thoroughly.
 
A few existing threads to this oft-asked question:

 
A few existing threads to this oft-asked question:

That’s all ? Be done by Saturday 😷
 
Cold oil takes forever to extract. I have to think hot offers a more complete drain.
I used to be a naysayer; now I love my MityVac.
I just slightly overfilled my 3.5 with HPL Euro 5-40. Mityvac just wouldn't take much out cold. Mine is run by air compressor. Need to have it hot to take any out.
 
Another reason to change the oil with a warm engine is that it can take several seconds for oil pressure to build up after a filter change.

If the engine is cold, the oil pump will be in pressure relief, and it will take longer to build pressure on the first start after the oil change. If your jug of oil is stored in freezing temperatures, it would be best to bring it up to room temperature before dumping it in as well.

I wouldn't get the engine so hot that you risk burning yourself, but I'd get it well above room temperature.
 
Take a few minutes hours and read through some of the other discussions on this very subject, and you will find that, even here on BITOG, where there are all the self proclaimed experts on car maintenance, there is no consensus on this subject.

That said, I'm a hot oil change kind of guy. Not real hot, like just home from a 30 minute drive kind of hot. But more of taking the car for a 5 minute drive to get it warm before oil change, kind of guy. I use a mityvac on my E350, and trying to extract cold oil will drive one insane. The wife's Outback has a Fumoto valve, so cold oil will drain. But I still prefer the oil hot. It really speeds up the process.
 
I'm not gonna waste gas just to warm up the oil.

If I can time it, I'll change the oil after a long hot trip, if I can do it without burning myself.
 
@JeffKeryk, how long have you been using your Mityvac?
Maybe 4 years? I generally do 5K max OCI and swap the filter every 2nd or even 3rd service. I pull the plug when I swap the filter. Generally. I think. All good. I love my MityVac. Trans services, Master Cylinder, whatever.

There are some engines that are not appropriate.
 
When doing an oil service is there any difference between draining the oil when it's cold or draining it when its up to operating temperature?

I always made sure the engine is hot, but does it actually make any difference?

How about in the winter, when it is cold outside? 0W20 seems to flow very easily even at 0C. Do I need to warm up the engine first?

Been here nearly 10 years, and don't know the answer to this by now?
And probably never heard of the "search" button either ... LMGTFY ... oh, wait ... Kschachn pretty much did that for you.


If, after reading those 22 threads, and all their associated pages, you can't figure it out, I guess you'll need this one to continue also ...

SMH
 
If you are using a vacuum pump if the oil is too hot it can collapse the plastic hoses and make the whole job take longer. For vacuum pumps warm is good, hot not so much, but cold won't work at all.
Now if you HAVE to use a vacuum pump on a cold engine, you can CAREFULLY use a heat gun to heat up the oil pan and that will help.
I have had to do that twice, once when the engine in my boat blew the head gaskets and I had to drain out all the water, didn't want to run it with no water, so heated the pan and was able to suck out the oil
Second time was when the main filter on the 545 RFE auto trans on my 07 Jeep clogged, I wanted to suck the oil out of the trans pan, so it wouldn't make a big mess when I cracked the pan loose. It was 32* the day I had to do that. Worked just fine, I use an IR temp gun to keep an eye on the temps and don't let it get too hot (like 150* or so is OK). That, was not a fun job but it turned out well.
545rfe extracting fluid from pan with vacuum pump.jpg
 
Vaccing it out hot is better cause the oil is thinner . I worked on forklifts and there were lots on accounts that had 10 or 20 forklifts run pretty much constantly . During service time the driver would line up the forklifts [some companies had pick ups and sweepers] we would do ] in a row and when we arrived to the location the forklifts were room temperature . We would send out a journey man and 2 oil change guys as we had a 4 hour window when the machines were idle . We would start at one end and work to the end of the line ,the engines lasted as long as the ones we changed with hot oil. Doing fleet work was fun because of high hours and miles,, we could see what actually worked and what was wives tales. Clean oil and sealed air filters made stuff last as long as possible. Clean oil did not keep stuff from breaking.
 
It is always best to replace your engine oil at operating temp. Contaminants are potentially better suspended and hot oil will drain quicker.


Yes, the tubing.....and the internal components of the Mityvac.
I’m finding 176°F on MV website … my oil can reach 228°F …
 
I’m finding 176°F on MV website … my oil can reach 228°F …
I have an over 20 year old Pela that on several occasions just rolled the car into the garage after a long drive, and started sucking. Uh, oil. Top side filters on all my cars so change that while extractor does it's extracting thing. Refill and button it all up after about 15 minutes. Never had issues with tubing (it's thick wall HPDE plastic) or internal pump/valves/seals etc.
 
I prefer not too hot when pulling the plug and swapping the filter, but hot is better when sucking it out with the MityVac.
Another reason to change the oil with a warm engine is that it can take several seconds for oil pressure to build up after a filter change.

I wouldn't get the engine so hot that you risk burning yourself, but I'd get it well above room temperature.

The magnetic tool shown below is worth every penny because it will allow you to drain extremely hot oil without scalding yourself. I bought one last year and don't know how I changed oil for 35 years without it!

1707342423537.jpg
 
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