New 2017 Honda CR-V Suggestions

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Originally Posted By: ChevyMan93
Personally I would rather run 5w-30 because I just find 0w-20 thin. It shouldn't bother me because that is what they spec, but it does. Lol. Would it hurt to run 5w-30? I don't care about mpg I care about longevity. I will most likely stick to 0w-20 but if I wanted to ever run 5w-30 just for the [censored] of it, would it be ok without any detrimental effects?


I've searched all over the net for K24 uoa's. The ones where 0W30 were used had much higher wear metals than the ones with the properly spec'd 0W20. Are these engines in fact engineered to thrive on 20wts? Or maybe would 5W30 show lower wear metals that 0W30?
 
Oh I'm sure the engine is specd for 0w-20 for a reason. I just can't wrap my mind around it. I don't understand how a 30 weight would cause more wear over less especially having a 0 weight at startup.
 
I'm the same way. Coming from years of using 10W40,20W50,etc,pouring a 0W20 oil into an engine is almost impossible for me to do haha. Some people say CAFE,while other's say the engines are "tighter",etc. I wish there was a definitive answer with physical proof either or vs opinions and hunches.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: ChevyMan93
Personally I would rather run 5w-30 because I just find 0w-20 thin. It shouldn't bother me because that is what they spec, but it does. Lol. Would it hurt to run 5w-30? I don't care about mpg I care about longevity. I will most likely stick to 0w-20 but if I wanted to ever run 5w-30 just for the [censored] of it, would it be ok without any detrimental effects?


I've searched all over the net for K24 uoa's. The ones where 0W30 were used had much higher wear metals than the ones with the properly spec'd 0W20. Are these engines in fact engineered to thrive on 20wts? Or maybe would 5W30 show lower wear metals that 0W30?


Here is a recent UOA of mine on Amsoil 0w/30 all single digit wear numbers. I have seen many UOA on this version of the K24 they all end up as a 20 weight anyway so using a 30 weight isn't going to harm a thing. Not sure if I agree with the higher wear metals using a 30 weight though... and the K24 when introduced was spec'd for 30 weight oil anyway.

Another thing to add is mine is not a DI motor.


2013 civic SI K24Z7

Your air filtration system is doing a good job, as seen by the 16 ppm of silicon in this sample.
Universal averages show typical wear for this type of engine after about 6,900 miles of oil use. You kept this
oil in place a little longer and most metals are in line with averages. Lead is a bit higher and that could show
bearing wear, but this engine probably has aluminum bearings, so maybe it's from an octane booster or
"unleaded" track fuel, if any were used. Let's just see how it trends.
The viscosity read in the 0W/20 range and the TBN was strong at 4.1. Try 10,000 miles

No make up oil.

Oil Amsoil 0W30 AZO
Miles in use 8,615
Miles 67,903
Sample taken 07/02/17

Aluminum 4
Chromium 0
Iron 6
Copper 1
Lead 7
Tin 0
Molybdenum 135
Nickel 0
Manganese 0
Silver 0
Titanium 0
Potassium 1
Boron 78
Silicon 16
Sodium 10
Calcium 3002
Magnesium 12
Phosphorus 576
Zinc 624
Barium 0

SUS Viscosity @210° 54.8
Cst Viscosity @100° 8.70
Flashpoint 425°
Fuel% Antifreeze% 0
Water% 0
Insolubles% 0.1
TBN 4.1
 
Now thats what im talking about. If the DI 2.4 shears so much i wouldnt see the harm in using a 30 weight. Itll end up a 20 weight anyway. And if the k24 was spec'd for a 30 weight before, and the engine wasnt re-engineered or re-designed, then i wouldnt see why i couldnt use a xW-30 oil in place of a xW-20. I would be inclined to say that they want us to use a 0w-20 to satisfy epa standards or something of the like. But i also dont know if the engine was spec'd 0w-20 due to a re-design, or the engine has stayed the same and they spec'd it for CAFE purposes as stated above. Is there a definitive answer?
 
Originally Posted By: ChevyMan93
Now thats what im talking about. If the DI 2.4 shears so much i wouldnt see the harm in using a 30 weight. Itll end up a 20 weight anyway. And if the k24 was spec'd for a 30 weight before, and the engine wasnt re-engineered or re-designed, then i wouldnt see why i couldnt use a xW-30 oil in place of a xW-20. I would be inclined to say that they want us to use a 0w-20 to satisfy epa standards or something of the like. But i also dont know if the engine was spec'd 0w-20 due to a re-design, or the engine has stayed the same and they spec'd it for CAFE purposes as stated above. Is there a definitive answer?


Look up parts numbers for things like bearings, crankshaft, rods, etc. If they're the same as years when a 30 grade oil was spec'd you'll have your answer. I did that with a few vehicles just to satisfy my own curiosity. I found in several instances the change of a model year called for a change from a 30 grade oil to a 20 grade oil with no other choices. I discovered internally nothing changed, I had my answer. IIRC there are also examples when a 20 grade oil was spec'd nothing was changed and they flipped back to a 30 grade oil.
 
Originally Posted By: ChevyMan93
Now thats what im talking about. If the DI 2.4 shears so much i wouldnt see the harm in using a 30 weight. Itll end up a 20 weight anyway. And if the k24 was spec'd for a 30 weight before, and the engine wasnt re-engineered or re-designed, then i wouldnt see why i couldnt use a xW-30 oil in place of a xW-20. I would be inclined to say that they want us to use a 0w-20 to satisfy epa standards or something of the like. But i also dont know if the engine was spec'd 0w-20 due to a re-design, or the engine has stayed the same and they spec'd it for CAFE purposes as stated above. Is there a definitive answer?


Engines have to be functional with all kinds of oil viscosities from a cold start in sub-zero weather to trailer towing, uphill, fully loaded in 100 degree weather. With this wide range of resulting oil temps and viscosities it's hard to imagine that going from a 100cSt of 8.7 for an 0w-20 to 10.7 for a 30 weight would matter.

The fuel diluting oil below 20 weight grade is worrisome, but the truth is probably that this matters only in extreme conditions calling for high revs and throttle and we may be worrying for nothing. This may be Honda's belief, explaning why they don't seem at all bothered.

As a compromise you could use a 50/50 blend of Mobil1 0w-20 and 0w-30: virtually identical add packs and just a rearrangement of base stock percentages. This would give a 100C cSt of about 9.7, making it a very thin 30 weight. And while fuel dilution would bring it to a 20 weight soon enough, it would stay in the 20 weight range quite a bit longer than a pure 0w-20.
 
Originally Posted By: ChevyMan93
That is actually a genius plan... i didnt even think of that!!! I will do that and see! Thank you!


Anytime! Post back your findings. I've seen changes, and I've seen the parts I mentioned remain the same of years.
 
Different strokes. You ain't listenin'. If it ain't broke don't fix it. Stay with a thick 0w20 for you 1st oil change (Warranty). PP is not thick. Uoa the first oil change and check for dilution. You may not even have excess fuel.
 
If you plan to use a 20 weight try to find one at the upper end of the viscosity range. Castrol Magnatec 0w/20&5/20 is 9.1 @100cst I believe. The 5/20 should be a bit more shear resistant and see what your results are and adjust your interval if needed.
 
This is all very interesting as I am new to Honda cars. I may use 5W20 next oil change,but not sure about 5W30. I honestly never see a reason for a 0W oil,especially where I live.

I hope this thread keeps going!
 
I personally dont see how it could make THAT much of a difference in being sluggish... and i hear you, i live in tennessee, it never gets truly cold here, might have an off week of in the 30s but thats about it...
 
I realize that. But you can't tell that big of a difference in 0w-20 and 5w-30 in regards to the car being sluggish. It can't be THAT big of a difference.
 
I was responding to aquariuscm,not you.I can tell the difference in the oils. Maybe you cannot. BTW best to use the Honda oem filter and the 0w20 grade oil recommended by Honda during the warranty period. You could buy the filter at the dealership and keep your receipts. Do you really think you know more than the Honda Engineers?
 
A fram ultra is most definitely a better filter than the oem Honda and I have never once had an issue with a warranty due to what type of oil filter I have used.
 
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