my experience with 2 HM oils

[zrxkawboy]

My daughter drives a 2007 Trailblazer with a 4.2 I6. We got it with 170-175k (can't remember for sure), and it now has 200k miles. When we got it, I had some RGT 5W30 that I bought because of a rebate, so I used that. It seemed to use a qt about every 1500 miles or so. After that I switched to some PPHM 5W30 that I also had on hand, and oil usage stayed about the same. I didn't like it, but it has a lot of miles on it, so I wasn't surprised. Late last year, I decided to try something different, and bought some Maxlife 5W30 (just the regular blend, not full syn). I am very surprised with the result: it hasn't burned a bit of oil! With over 1000 miles since the oil change, the level on the dipstick hasn't moved off of the Full mark. Will definitely be staying with the Maxlife. Even though there are seldom sales/rebates on it, it's less expensive than a new catalytic converter.

I still believe SOPUS makes quality oils, but this particular engine didn't seem to like them. Just sharing my experience...thought it was interesting.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

That's great zrxkawboy! Glad to read your dipstick readings are showing less consumption. My prior 99' S-10 with 4.3 V6 always seemed to favor the same Maxlife Blend you're using. In a real odd scenario, I once changed to Full Synthetic Maxlife for one OCI and my results were subpar with the dipstick readings.

Just be sure that none of your oil drain bucket contains coolant. Both the prior 4.3 V6 and the 4.2 had issues with either the head gasket or intake. Keep an eye on how the drained oil looks / smells. When a leak begins, the dipstick readings could be affected. Try to catch such disaster in early stages. I waited too long on the intake. I thought I could wait a few weeks longer to get it fixed and one day I looked in the rear view mirror and all I could see was blueish smoke in that mirror. Luckily, I was only a couple miles from home.

 

[MalibuRam65]

My daughter drives a 2007 Trailblazer with a 4.2 I6. We got it with 170-175k (can't remember for sure), and it now has 200k miles. When we got it, I had some RGT 5W30 that I bought because of a rebate, so I used that. It seemed to use a qt about every 1500 miles or so. After that I switched to some PPHM 5W30 that I also had on hand, and oil usage stayed about the same. I didn't like it, but it has a lot of miles on it, so I wasn't surprised. Late last year, I decided to try something different, and bought some Maxlife 5W30 (just the regular blend, not full syn). I am very surprised with the result: it hasn't burned a bit of oil! With over 1000 miles since the oil change, the level on the dipstick hasn't moved off of the Full mark. Will definitely be staying with the Maxlife. Even though there are seldom sales/rebates on it, it's less expensive than a new catalytic converter.

I still believe SOPUS makes quality oils, but this particular engine didn't seem to like them. Just sharing my experience...thought it was interesting.

You can Also run a short OCI Valvoline Restore and Protect synthetic a try. It’s suppose to clean piston rings right up .

 

[Triple_Se7en]

You can Also run a short OCI Valvoline Restore and Protect synthetic a try. It’s suppose to clean piston rings right up .

I believe the paperwork on the oil mentions using it for (4) full OCIs, for best results.
(opinion).... That sounds to me like it's a slow worker at cleaning. I'm guessing both Mobil-1 EP and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum can virtually come close to - or match that. Add a few more OCIs and maybe even the Group3 Castrol EP and Valvoline EP can match it also.

 

[Vitamin Yoda]

Also, this:

We got it with 170-175k (can't remember for sure), and it now has 200k miles.

At that mileage, if you have no rear main seal or front seal leaks, I would run a low cost Euro oil like Mobil 1 FS 5W-40 or Quaker State Euro 5W-40. If you can find Mobil 1 FS 5W-30 or Castrol EDGE Euro 5W-30 even better, as they have less VII, yet high quality base oils and additive packages. Any of these Euro oils should curb that engine's appetite for lubricant and keep it in good health.

 

[fantastic]

That's great you've found something to keep the consumption down. These inline 6's are decent engines from what I've seen. You may already know this but an interesting story is that I bought a 1999 S10 Blazer w/"Trailblazer" trim package. Then later on I bought a 1999 GMC "Envoy" Trim package. They were using those names as trim packages, then used them as the main model names later on. Here's to another 25k with HM oil...

 

[bullwinkle]

My brother has a 4.2 Trailblazer, believe his is also an ‘07-it runs on a steady diet of Maxlife, both 5W30 & 10W30/40-seems to like it! Has decent power, he uses it to tow my utility trailer & as a winter beater (has AWD). In true GM style, something stupid falls off/breaks on a regular basis, though!

 

[bullwinkle]

That's great you've found something to keep the consumption down. These inline 6's are decent engines from what I've seen. You may already know this but an interesting story is that I bought a 1999 S10 Blazer w/"Trailblazer" trim package. Then later on I bought a 1999 GMC "Envoy" Trim package. They were using those names as trim packages, then used them as the main model names later on. Here's to another 25k with HM oil...

My brother had a late ‘90s GMC Envoy (AKA S-Blazer[Sonoma-Blazer?])-good 4.3, rest of it was an over-optioned PITA! Especially the cursed HID headlights…

 

[fantastic]

My brother had a late ‘90s GMC Envoy (AKA S-Blazer[Sonoma-Blazer?])-good 4.3, rest of it was an over-optioned PITA! Especially the cursed HID headlights…

I think it would've been a GMC "Jimmy" w/Envoy trim. Those Headlight housings are sought after to put on the S10 trucks.

 

[The Critic]

I have a suspicion that switching to any “conventional” may have yielded similar results.

I have noticed that switching from synthetic to conventional can sometimes reduce consumption quite drastically….and I have yet to find a technical explanation for it.

 

[Vitamin Yoda]

I have a suspicion that switching to any conventional may have yielded similar results.

NOACK?

 

[gman2304]

Late last year, I decided to try something different, and bought some Maxlife 5W30 (just the regular blend, not full syn). I

Different engine but similar results with the Maxlife blend. My old Chevy 5.3 at 244,000 miles is down about 1/2 qt at 5,000 miles so it gets changed then. Great HM oil IMO.

 

[zrxkawboy]

I have a suspicion that switching to any “conventional” may have yielded similar results.

I have noticed that switching from synthetic to conventional can sometimes reduce consumption quite drastically….and I have yet to find a technical explanation for it.

It's sure possible. The oils I mentioned are the only ones I've run in it, so no experience with any other blends in this engine.

 

[Furious]

I had a few different experiences with high mileage oils specifically in my Toyota.

My Toyota has a 1MZ-FE which are known oil burners/sludge monsters. Although mine is very clean it does consume just under half a quart between 5,000 mile oil changes which is actually well within spec.

I used QS All Mileage, Mobil 1 HM Triple Action and currently Valvoline Full Synthetic High Mileage.

The engine is the quietest on Valvoline but didn't consume any real measurable amount on Mobil 1.

Personally I am a QS fan but both of my vehicles currently have Valvoline but due to just simple experimenting with different oils I will likely switch both back to Mobil 1 and stick with it.

Best thing to do is to find what your engine likes and in your case Valvoline seems to be it which is good because Valvoline has a stout additive pack.

 

[Graham Piccinini]

I had many cars that consumed SOPUS oils, and almost all the time the consumption was fixed by switching to other synthetics like M1, Valvoline, or Castrol Edge. Only SOPUS oil that didn't follow that trend and gave me good results is Quaker State 5W30 & 5W40. I stopped using Pennzoil and Rotella oils around 2017.

 

[ltslimjim]

I have a suspicion that switching to any “conventional” may have yielded similar results.

I have noticed that switching from synthetic to conventional can sometimes reduce consumption quite drastically….and I have yet to find a technical explanation for it.

I’ve observed this as well. Full synthetic HM Valvoline is not as effective as their Red Bottle HM blend at helping reduce leaks from seals, in my anecdotal experience. Since they both have some group III, what is the percentage of group 2 in the red bottle doing to help? The additive package is more evenly blended and effective in the base stock that uses some percentage of conventional? Conventional in of itself keeping seals in best shape; I.e. by itself having no negative side effects?

 

[Matt1357]

Kinda funny my 78 year old mother has a 2003 RAV4 as a second car and she was just complaining she hasn't changed the oil since 2021 buts it's at 5000 miles. She said they want $70 and it too much money. She's been saying for years now she pays extra for semi synthetic so she shows me the last receipt and it says Valvoline maxlife semi syn in pen. So I check the dipstick and it's exactly at the full mark and I open the Walmart app and show her the supertech high milage full synthetic is $3 dollars cheaper and she was not having it, probably best if it ain't broke type of situation. I ordered the maxlife with frame tough guard filter

 

[wlk]

My old Isuzu Ascender that I got rid of at 175k due to trans issue, same as TB, Envoy, had the 4.2l. Kept getting p0420 codes before switching to Maxlife starting around 110k. Replaced the cat, mechanic was adamant it was bad and 700 miles light came right back. Switched to Maxlife 5/10w30 red bottle after this and after about a year light was gone and so was consumption, valve seals. Kept it for several more years and light never returned. Moral, keep it on the Red bottle Maxlife and motor on.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

My old Isuzu Ascender that I got rid of at 175k due to trans issue, same as TB, Envoy, had the 4.2l. Kept getting p0420 codes before switching to Maxlife starting around 110k. Replaced the cat, mechanic was adamant it was bad and 700 miles light came right back. Switched to Maxlife 5/10w30 red bottle after this and after about a year light was gone and so was consumption, valve seals. Kept it for several more years and light never returned. Moral, keep it on the Red bottle Maxlife and motor on.

Is it possible that once the new cat was installed, it took another 700 miles to free all the old cat debris stuck in the tailpipe?

BTW.... I had real good results with the Red Maxlife in our GM 99' S-10 4.3. Definitely not as happy trying the full synthetic version later on. Switched right back to the synblend.

I miss Valvoline products. When they sold the company, I switched to other brands.

 

[wlk]

No, once the cat was installed the light was off, then it came back around 700 miles later. Then it took a couple of changes about 1 year's worth of running, and then it went off for good.