Mixing grades

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Originally Posted By: Throt
I don't understand why OEM's don't start requiring it in the Owner's Manual.

It is relatively hard to actually specify synthetic and do so in an unambiguous way. You specify 0w-20, you'll probably get synthetic, but there are blended variants. You specify A5/B5, in North America that will almost certainly get you a synthetic, but limit you to 5w-30 only. Elsewhere, you may find a blend and 10w-30. You specify A3/B4 in North America, you'll almost certainly get a synthetic, too, though elsewhere may be different. You'll also be well out of any CAFE oils, and I doubt the Japanese and North American automakers are prepared to accept that right now. I can't see these automakers rushing to jump from something like a 0w-20 to a 5w-40.
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
How does adding .2 quart of oil help stop the engine from blowing up?

Maybe it will help long enough to clear warranty (if you still have any warranty). Swift101 I would stick on this recall issue like glue.
 
When i had the recall done (the 2.0T passed btw) the dealership drained/filled with Conventional and replaced the yellow dipstick with an orange one as well. I asked if using dino wouldn't be a problem now that A5 is recommended for current generation turbos? The answer was a definite "no". "Hyundai will not void your warranty if conventional is used in the turbo. This procedure is proof of that."

The engine warranty was also extended to 120K miles. Even with dino coursing through it's oil galleries! How about that!
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No issues!
Wemay, have you dissected any oil filters from the Santa Fe? I plan on doing one next oil change on my Optima. I’m interested to see what’s in there.
 
Originally Posted By: wemay
Hi Mparr, no, I've never dissected an oil filter. I am curious though.


Wemay: if you ever want to, please let me know as I’d gladly do that
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Well, I have about 1,500 miles before the next oil change. I am going to open up the old one. I will post pictures. I hope there’s nothing chunky in there.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Initially Sounds like a bunch of pseudo science. They didn't need to add .2qts! There is a safe oil RANGE and all cars will operate w/in that range. not all cars are moving around topped up - ex maybe HERE!
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But with a chain motor, at a lower warmup viscosity, if the oil management is not correct the chain can pump oil out of the sump at certain higher RPM possibly leave it dry esp going up a mopderate grade. I know I do this every day in the winter - I have to climb a 25% grade with a cold engine at 3000rpm.

Is this rear pickup or front pickup?
How does the cam chain pump out oil out of the sump and pump the sump dry? We seem to be full of advice and lacking in engine operating knowledge.
 
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