M1 0W20, 9,500 miles, 2014 Mazda 6

[aquariuscsm]

Imagine if this had been an RP uoa,oh lord! The RP bashers would be coming out like roaches. I can hear it now:

"Lots of wear metals for such an expensive oil!"

"You can get just as good a uoa using something cheaper"

Blah blah

 

[Brybo86]

Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Imagine if this had been an RP uoa,oh lord! The RP bashers would be coming out like roaches. I can hear it now:

"Lots of wear metals for such an expensive oil!"

"You can get just as good a uoa using something cheaper"

Blah blah


Huh pretty sure most comments have said to much iron.
11ppm on 6700 miles average
27ppm on 9500... over double ppm

somewhere in between the iron production increased, or M1 isn't the best choice for this engine.

 

[Fahrvergnügen]

Don't put 30 weight oil in this engine. Engine already runs on the hotter side and the 30 weight will affect the flow, and pressure causing higher oil temps.

 

[ruxCYtable]

I didn't intend to go 9,500 on this one. Every time I wanted to change the oil it was cold out or I had some other excuse. Going forward I plan to stick to 7,500.

At first I thought make-up quart was 5W-30 but it was not.

Someone asked: Original oil was EP, top off quart was AFE, I *THINK*.

 

[Fahrvergnügen]

Oh and don't do 5000 mile oil changes. go to 7500 - 10,000. you will be fine.

 

[Artem]

Originally Posted By: Brybo86


Huh pretty sure most comments have said to much iron.
11ppm on 6700 miles average
27ppm on 9500... over double ppm

somewhere in between the iron production increased, or M1 isn't the best choice for this engine.


I have the exact same engine but 2.0L size in my 2014 Mazda 3 (Mazda says the engines are identical just bigger) My UOA shows 2ppm of iron after 3k miles. 5ppm iron after 4,000 miles. I agree that 27ppm seems a bit high at 9,500mi even taking into account the slightly bigger block difference.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Imagine if this had been an RP uoa,oh lord! The RP bashers would be coming out like roaches. I can hear it now:

"Lots of wear metals for such an expensive oil!"

"You can get just as good a uoa using something cheaper"

Blah blah


So... those wouldn't be valid questions in your theoretical situation? It's been pretty clear there are two sides-
1. yes, 27ppm is high but actually less than 3ppm/1k miles. Universal averages can add some levity to assessing if this is "abnormal" for this engine family.
2. His wear numbers this OCI are significantly higher than his last UOA. This may partially be caused by differences in chelation due to the base oil and additives.
3. As Shannow pointed out, trending is required at this point to really make any determination of what is going on- if this was first UOA on Mobil, and next UOA on Mobil the wear numbers drop significantly, it was likely a cleaning effect. If they are still statistically elevated over the prior baseline, or are increasing even more, there is likely an underlying cause.
4. You most likely can get just as good a UOA using something cheaper. True story.

 

[4WD]

There are many UOA’s posted where there are not even two B2B runs with the same oil …
There are also some recent 27’s posted with another brand of oil … and “crickets” from some of the “worrisome” folks here …

 

[PimTac]

In general terms my preference in 5k oci for short tripped cars with GDI engines and 7500 miles for more highway miles. Beyond that get the analysis done. In your case backing off to 7500 is prudent.

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: vq40
Don't put 30 weight oil in this engine. Engine already runs on the hotter side and the 30 weight will affect the flow, and pressure causing higher oil temps.


But Mazda recommends 5w30 in Canada and Mexico.

 

[Fahrvergnügen]

What are you people going to do when the Auto Manufacturers in 2020 put locks on the hood so the consumer cant open it. When I previously worked in service at Nissan, Volkswagen, Mazda, and Hyundai most of the problems that came in were from people that thought they were smarter than the engineer for instance Nissan CVT, don't get me wrong that transmission is a problem already but the people that think it didn't take special transmission fluid, Nissan was just saying that to make money, and they put aftermarket CVT fluid in, and the car ended up coming in on the hook, bc the car wouldn't move, and consumer ended up ruining the transmission due to incorrect fluid, or with Volkswagen, people saying it doesn't need the VW 507 oil or VW 505.00 and comes in with ruined cam lobes bc the consumer was smarter than the engineer, or the DPF was completely clogged up and needed to be replaced bc they ran a mid saps or full saps rotella oil. I come on here and read all this [censored] and don't understand why consumers are like this. Any change of synthetic oil before 7500-10,000 miles is very unnecessary. Matter of fact we would not even change oil at VW unless it was at 10,000 miles or more. Nothing less, we would send you down the road, and say come back when the oil has 10,000 miles on it. Mazda says 7500 miles on all their vehicles with the exception of the 2016 CX-9 which is 4000 miles. When I had my 2014 Mazda 6 I sent off the oil to be tested, and it always came back good at 7500 Using the Mazda GF-5 with Moly. When I had my VW Golf TDI I sent of the oil and they said the oil was in great shape go to 12,000 that was going to dealer and getting Castrol Professional 5w30 LL03. I still only went 10,000 miles. Its simple, just run what freaking fluids the manufacturer calls for and quit thinking the manufacturer doesn't know what they are talking about. we are not in the 60's anymore people. I have never seen a failure of an engine from following manufacturers change intervals and oil grades, but I have seen failures due to not running the proper grades and trying to really over extend and neglect oil changes.

 

[LotI]

As I mentioned before, the OP should be following the severe service interval of 5k because he lives in an area where they use salt on the roads and he may drive long distances in cold temps...I know I do.

I think it’s irresponsible to tell people that they need to blindly follow instructions...everyone’s situation is unique. We’ve all send the pictures of a sludged BMW where the owners went by the recommendation.

I bet you if I took a VW EA888 motor and drove it for 1 mile then shut it off, let it cool, and repeated this for 10k miles it wouldn’t be pretty.

Motor Vehicle Owners' Right to Repair Act...look it up.

As noted, Mazda says to use 5w-30 north and south of the USA. We know CAFE is the reason, along with Mazda’s decision to bump the tire pressures in the US! The 2.5T version in the CX-9 and M6 use a 30 grade. In the rest of the world you are free to use everything from a 0w-20 to a 10w-50 grade depending on climate...same motor.

 

[Patman]

Originally Posted By: LotI
As I mentioned before, the OP should be following the severe service interval of 5k because he lives in an area where they use salt on the roads and he may drive long distances in cold temps...I know I do.

I think it’s irresponsible to tell people that they need to blindly follow instructions...everyone’s situation is unique. We’ve all send the pictures of a sludged BMW where the owners went by the recommendation.



Not to minimize what you are saying, because it's correct, however we recently found out on here that the famous BMW sludged up picture was actually using conventional oil, not synthetic. So they might have followed the specified interval, but did not use the proper oil.

 

[SatinSilver]

The old BMW interval was 15k miles which has been lowered to 10k miles. I believe they were using synthetic oil.

 

[demarpaint]

I'd try a 30 grade oil next run.

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I'd try a 30 grade oil next run.


I agree. If its out of warranty thats what i would do. But if the warranty is in effect he will need to show proof of using the warranty grade. I'd like to run a 0w 30 afe in my cx-5 but not an maintain warranty. So i buy 0w20 and spike it with 0w40.

 

[mcwilly]

Originally Posted By: spasm3
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I'd try a 30 grade oil next run.


I agree. If its out of warranty thats what i would do. But if the warranty is in effect he will need to show proof of using the warranty grade. I'd like to run a 0w 30 afe in my cx-5 but not an maintain warranty. So i buy 0w20 and spike it with 0w40.


Sneaky... I like it.

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: LotI
along with Mazda’s decision to bump the tire pressures in the US! The 2.5T version in the CX-9 and M6 use a 30 grade. In the rest of the world you are free to use everything from a 0w-20 to a 10w-50 grade depending on climate...same motor.


When i brought the cx-5 home, i found the tire pressures at 40 cold, all the way around. I thought maybe it was just to keep them from being low when sitting on the lot.

 

[Artem]

That's them trying to eek out an extra 0.1mpg outta the car in exchange for a harsher ride.

 

[PimTac]

Originally Posted By: spasm3
Originally Posted By: LotI
along with Mazda’s decision to bump the tire pressures in the US! The 2.5T version in the CX-9 and M6 use a 30 grade. In the rest of the world you are free to use everything from a 0w-20 to a 10w-50 grade depending on climate...same motor.


When i brought the cx-5 home, i found the tire pressures at 40 cold, all the way around. I thought maybe it was just to keep them from being low when sitting on the lot.




They inflate the tires that high for the boat trip and then they are supposed to adjust the pressures back down when they arrive at the dealerships. Always good to check. I found mine at 31 pounds all around, pumped them up to 36 and fuel economy improved quite a bit.