Leave snows on all year?

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Originally Posted By: Carzzz
My opinion is that driving with snow tires on summer is better than driving with summer tires on wintery condition!


Good point. Waaaaaaayyyyy better, IMO! If I had to choose between running my studded Cooper Weathermasters year-round or the Goodyear RS-As that came on my Mazda3, I'd use the Coopers without a second thought. I drove in snow for one week with those RS-As, and it was not safe at all. I'd probably even take the Coopers over my Michelins in that situation. I could drive the same on my Coopers in the summer as I drive with my Pilots (though I may lose a few studs during acceleration and cornering), but I can't drive on the Pilots in the winter anywhere near how I drive on the Coopers.
 
Someone should actually look at the braking distances of snow tires on dry pavement and bring some safety and science into this discussion.

Switching to my snow tires even in proper, cold conditions always brings a huge drop in vehicle performance. In particular the first thing I notice is braking effectiveness drops substantially. I can't wait to get the snows off as soon as I can, even when they were performance snows like Dunlop M3s.

So maybe you don't want Blizzak-loving grandpa driving *behind* you in the summer months. Whether you're a sporting-oriented driver or whether you only think of your tires as "round and black", braking distance is braking distance and yours is FAR longer if you're running snows on dry pavement. This is especially true when they are outside of their temperature range.

I had to do emergency braking last night on my snows in dry conditions with temps around freezing and I had a fraction of the braking I would have had even with warm weather summer tires outside of their designed temperature range.

I have observed this with every set of snows I've driven on - Michelin XMS100, Michelin Arctic Alpin, Michelin Pilot Alpin, Michelin Pilot Alpin PA2, Dunlop Wintersport M3, Pirelli SnowSport 210 and now my Nokian Hakkapeliitta RSis.

Running snows all year round is certainly suboptimal but I'll agree with the sentiment that it's better than summer tires in the winter. A better choice would be "All Weather" tires like Nokian WRG2s.
 
Originally Posted By: LS2JSTS
That Firestone store gets to sell Grandpa a LOT of tires that way.

A soft silica compound tire like the Blizzak wears out on the hot roads in Summer very quickly.


Yeah but, Grandpa loves the tires!
 
It's more of a hassle to swap rims and tires but you're spreading usage onto twice the tires. Using snow tires year round vs snows for 6 months and summers for 6 months I'm not sure you're ahead financially running the snows which are going to wear considerably more in the summer months.

And then you're also getting the best tire for the conditions all the time, not making needless and potentially dangerous sacrifices.

I'm with the above poster, I can't wait to get the snows off in the spring, they're rather terrifying on dry pavement.
 
Originally Posted By: cchase

I'm with the above poster, I can't wait to get the snows off in the spring, they're rather terrifying on dry pavement.


How hard to you drive on the street? I run ultra skinny 155/80R13's snow tires in the winter on my Neon and although the handling is abit more vague I have no problem zipping around corners faster than the average driver and they give all sorts of warning you're getting near the limit. Plus if you go over the limit the grip doesn't really fall off even with large slip angles on any surface. I'd almost recommend them as sort of a beginner tire as they also communicate alot when the tread start so open up in hard turning, braking or accelerating.
 
Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
Someone should actually look at the braking distances of snow tires on dry pavement and bring some safety and science into this discussion.

Switching to my snow tires even in proper, cold conditions always brings a huge drop in vehicle performance. In particular the first thing I notice is braking effectiveness drops substantially. I can't wait to get the snows off as soon as I can, even when they were performance snows like Dunlop M3s.


As the C&D test showed, there certainly is a difference. But if you're regularly using anywhere near the full braking potential of you're vehicle on clean, dry pavement, you're not driving safely to begin with. I've needed the full potential of my brakes on dry pavement twice in my life. The first was when I was a young, tailgating idiot. The second was when I realized someone was about to run into me head-on, and I had no time to do anything but slam on the brakes and hope I can drop at least a little speed before the impact. Apparently I did leave a skid mark, but I doubt it was very long, and I doubt that different tires would have had any significant effect on the outcome.

Besides, I'm pretty sure that I'd outbrake the average truck or SUV on all-seasons when I have the winter tires on my Mazda3.

Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
Running snows all year round is certainly suboptimal but I'll agree with the sentiment that it's better than summer tires in the winter. A better choice would be "All Weather" tires like Nokian WRG2s.


Well, maybe if you drive on salt instead of ice and snow during the winter!
wink.gif


Yeah, it's possible I'd use those if I were using only one set of tires.

You're always compromising something either way. The most important thing is to be aware of your limits.
 
Originally Posted By: rpn453
Originally Posted By: rcy
Good recent article by Car and Driver...

http://www.caranddriver.com/features/09q...omparison_tests


That is a good article.

60-0 with a high-performance all-season on cold dry pavement: 128 feet.

With a high-quality all-season touring tire: 130 feet.

With a high-performance winter tire: 141 feet.

With a no-compromise (except studs!) winter tire: 158 feet.


This definitely support my personal observations.

My point is to do the same test at 70F and 90F and include high performance summer tires. That would give the "snow tires are fine year round" crowd something to think about, I think. The problem is that I doubt any major publication has never done a study on running snow tires through the summer.
 
Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
This definitely support my personal observations.

My point is to do the same test at 70F and 90F and include high performance summer tires. That would give the "snow tires are fine year round" crowd something to think about, I think. The problem is that I doubt any major publication has never done a study on running snow tires through the summer.


Car and Driver did that with some Goodyears a few years ago. Test results were similar in warm weather (77 degrees):

60-0 with a high-performance summer tire: 132 feet (132 wet).

With an all-season tire: 142 feet (155 wet).

With a high-performance winter tire: 147 feet (150 wet).

"The most interesting result was that the snow tire performed better on wet asphalt than did the all-season tire. The snow tire stopped sooner — 150 feet versus 155 — and pulled more g — 0.71 versus 0.69. And its 56.60-second run through the wet autocross course was 0.11 second quicker. But on the dry surface, the results were reversed, with the all-season tire outperforming the snow tire. Most notably, the all-season tire's time through the dry autocross (52.15 seconds) was more than a second better than that of the snow tires."

http://www.caranddriver.com/features/06q4/a_tire_for_all_seasons_-tech_stuff

They really chewed up the winter tires on the autocross course!

tire_test_goodyear_eagle_ultra_grip_snow_tire_image_0011_cd_gallery.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: rpn453
Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
Someone should actually look at the braking distances of snow tires on dry pavement and bring some safety and science into this discussion.

Switching to my snow tires even in proper, cold conditions always brings a huge drop in vehicle performance. In particular the first thing I notice is braking effectiveness drops substantially. I can't wait to get the snows off as soon as I can, even when they were performance snows like Dunlop M3s.


As the C&D test showed, there certainly is a difference. But if you're regularly using anywhere near the full braking potential of you're vehicle on clean, dry pavement, you're not driving safely to begin with.



Who said anything about "regularly"? Some lady pulled into a 55mph flow of traffic in front of me without looking while another car was beside me - brakes (and horn, and high beams) were the only course of action. It doesn't take "regularly" to total two or more vehicles, injure occupants or strike a pedestrian. I think just one incident in a lifetime would be worth a set of tires, don't you?

The squirminess of snow tires goes far beyond needing "full capability". I feel it constantly and in all situations. In cold and dry down to -5C or so, my summers still win hands down (contrary to the brochures all over about 7C) well below "full capability".

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I've needed the full potential of my brakes on dry pavement twice in my life. The first was when I was a young, tailgating idiot. The second was when I realized someone was about to run into me head-on, and I had no time to do anything but slam on the brakes and hope I can drop at least a little speed before the impact. Apparently I did leave a skid mark, but I doubt it was very long, and I doubt that different tires would have had any significant effect on the outcome.

Besides, I'm pretty sure that I'd outbrake the average truck or SUV on all-seasons when I have the winter tires on my Mazda3.

Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
Running snows all year round is certainly suboptimal but I'll agree with the sentiment that it's better than summer tires in the winter. A better choice would be "All Weather" tires like Nokian WRG2s.


Well, maybe if you drive on salt instead of ice and snow during the winter!
wink.gif


Yeah, it's possible I'd use those if I were using only one set of tires.

You're always compromising something either way. The most important thing is to be aware of your limits.


I agree with you here. My point in the discussion is those limits will be FAR lower if you're running WS-50s in 90F summer than a proper tire rated for summer.
 
Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
Who said anything about "regularly"? Some lady pulled into a 55mph flow of traffic in front of me without looking while another car was beside me - brakes (and horn, and high beams) were the only course of action.


I apologize if I misinterpreted you. I got that impression from this statement:

Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
Switching to my snow tires even in proper, cold conditions always brings a huge drop in vehicle performance. In particular the first thing I notice is braking effectiveness drops substantially.


I guess that statement caught my attention because I've never noticed a drop in braking effectiveness with winter tires, since I've never been anywhere close to braking at the limits with them on clean pavement.

Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
It doesn't take "regularly" to total two or more vehicles, injure occupants or strike a pedestrian. I think just one incident in a lifetime would be worth a set of tires, don't you?


It's not just one set of tires, it's an ongoing expense. And, there's no guarantee that incident will ever happen, or that the person be either injured or at-fault. If they have to pay $100 plus a couple hours of their time every year to switch them over, the $5000 plus 100 hours of wasted time over 50 years might not be worth it for some drivers. Money and convenience are still factors for most people when it comes to safety, including me. I'd be running Hakka5s on something other than a Mazda3 this winter if it weren't. I'd also greatly reduce my chance of a head injury in a collision if I wore a helmet while driving.

How often would a few less feet worth of braking distance or a few hundredths of a g in cornering ability change the outcome of a collision significantly? I don't think I've ever heard of a collision involving anyone I know that would have been prevented, or even significantly reduced in severity, by a little more dry pavement traction. Yet I've heard of many where better winter traction would have helped. Semi-trailer trucks have far longer braking distances than passenger cars, yet they somehow manage to crash less often.

Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
I agree with you here. My point in the discussion is those limits will be FAR lower if you're running WS-50s in 90F summer than a proper tire rated for summer.


We do agree on that!
 
I'll add that I also agree with your Nokian recommendation for db500; either the WR or WRG2. Once they're down to 7/32 or so, that's when I'd get a second set of wheels. I'm sure there are other performance-oriented winter tires or aggressive all-seasons that would do well year-round in that climate, but those Nokians are the surest bet, IMO.
 
Originally Posted By: rpn453
Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
Who said anything about "regularly"? Some lady pulled into a 55mph flow of traffic in front of me without looking while another car was beside me - brakes (and horn, and high beams) were the only course of action.


I apologize if I misinterpreted you. I got that impression from this statement:

Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
Switching to my snow tires even in proper, cold conditions always brings a huge drop in vehicle performance. In particular the first thing I notice is braking effectiveness drops substantially.


I guess that statement caught my attention because I've never noticed a drop in braking effectiveness with winter tires, since I've never been anywhere close to braking at the limits with them on clean pavement.


Well, maybe we're just running into a matter of perception. I detect, instantly and without a doubt, the change in tracking and other characteristics of the car as soon as my winter tires go on. You don't need to be anywhere near the limit to detect this. My wife comes home after her drive on snows and comments and she's just noodling about going to the grocery store with no high performance driver training etc... The squirming of the sipes dramatically reduces the directness of the vehicle's connection to dry pavement. My brand new Hakkas are the wintery-est winter tires I've had in a while and exhibit this dramatically in both acceleration and braking. (Yes, acceleration has also been compromised somewhat) When it's over 5C it's quite noticeable and accompanied with grippy, velcro-like noises. When it's closer to 10-15C (we had a warm spell) they might as well be wheels of cheddar. I had to tippy-toe all over the place trying not to ruin them for a day or so. In the end I decided to take them off for what ended up being 4 weeks, since I change sets myself in less than half an hour.

I know my car and how it behaves fairly well, as I'm sure many others here do, and I notice a definite "whoa, Nelly" with decreased braking performance when the snows go on. When the summers go back on she feels like she can nose-stand again.

Far too many drivers are unaware of where the limit actually is. This isn't a recommendation to behave like a hooligan, but a statement about driving training. It's good to experience this sort of thing in at least one training session.

During the emergency moment I mentioned this week I wasn't exactly aware what the limit on my RSis was at that temperature since they're new and I'm not accustomed to them. I can say that if my summers were still on the car in those same conditions (1C, dry) it would have been a total non-event - a one second firm squeeze of the pedal - to scrub off the required speed and it would have simply been annoying. With the snows my brake response wasn't linear and progressive, and at least one wheel was starting to lock as I was threshold braking (despite ABS). Now it became an "event" as there was a brief instant when I couldn't confidently project a good outcome. (And I was really happy to be locking up my brand new snows on dry pavement).

We're talking a real difference here, not a couple hundredths of a g. I listed all of the winter tires I've used in the past to demonstrate that these observations aren't just from one tire. Around 12 years ago I was using all seasons in the summer (Michelin MXV4s) and Michelin XMS100 in the winter. When we had that run of El Nino winters where the Toronto area had almost no snow I left the all seasons on because the braking performance was so much better in the wet/dry that we were seeing that winter.

Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
It doesn't take "regularly" to total two or more vehicles, injure occupants or strike a pedestrian. I think just one incident in a lifetime would be worth a set of tires, don't you?


It's not just one set of tires, it's an ongoing expense.

[/quote]
All of the points you raise in this paragraph are valid but are, IMO, an argument for a top-notch set of all-seasons or all-weathers if you aren't going to bother changing tires, not a good argument to run snows all year.

Quote:

And, there's no guarantee that incident will ever happen, or that the person be either injured or at-fault. If they have


Yet we need to pay far more than $5000 in a lifetime on car insurance

Quote:

I'd also greatly reduce my chance of a head injury in a collision if I wore a helmet while driving.


This made me chuckle :)

Quote:

How often would a few less feet worth of braking distance or a few hundredths of a g in cornering ability change the outcome of a collision significantly? I don't think I've ever heard of a collision involving anyone I know that would have been prevented, or even significantly reduced in severity, by a little more dry pavement traction. Yet I've heard of many


One of my repeated points is that I (personally) find the effect dramatic even when my snows are in their proper temperature range. In the scorching heat of summer I don't think it would be a few "hundreths of a g".

Quote:

where better winter traction would have helped. Semi-trailer trucks have far longer braking distances than passenger cars, yet they somehow manage to crash less often.

Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
I agree with you here. My point in the discussion is those limits will be FAR lower if you're running WS-50s in 90F summer than a proper tire rated for summer.


We do agree on that!


We're still agreed on winter traction.

At any rate, I'm really not trying to turn this into any kind of heated argument. I'm just trying to provide some first hand observations that in the dry snows are less capable than other tires even when in their temperature range. If you go far out of their temperature range, you could be in some real trouble. And for those drivers who drive around unaware of where the limits are for their current vehicle and conditions, they (and others) might be in for quite a surprise when they actually need full capability.

The OP was wondering if this is a good idea. Based on personal observation I feel it's a bad idea. Based on how compromised my RSis are at only 15C at night with no sun I would even call it "reckless" depending on a number of factors. Though, as rpn453 asserts, it's even more reckless to run bald all-seasons in winter conditions. You might be able to get away with it in the realm of a performance snow tire (Nokian WRG2, Michelin Pilot/Primacy Alpin PA3, Pirelli Snowsport 210/240/Sottozero, Dunlop 3D) but they won't be as good in the white stuff - a well-known compromise. By the time winter rolls around the summer use may have rounded off the sipes so much that they're useless, however.
 
Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
Well, maybe we're just running into a matter of perception. I detect, instantly and without a doubt, the change in tracking and other characteristics of the car as soon as my winter tires go on. You don't need to be anywhere near the limit to detect this. My wife comes home after her drive on snows and comments and she's just noodling about going to the grocery store with no high performance driver training etc... The squirming of the sipes dramatically reduces the directness of the vehicle's connection to dry pavement. My brand new Hakkas are the wintery-est winter tires I've had in a while and exhibit this dramatically in both acceleration and braking. (Yes, acceleration has also been compromised somewhat).


I can certainly tell there's less traction with my winter tires when I accelerate, since I tend to get a little wheelspin in first whenever I'm accelerating into traffic even on a summer day with my Pilots. I just let the Pilots spin a bit until the car catches up, but I immediately ease up the throttle when I hear the scraping of my winter tires, to preserve my studs. However, when I really want to accelerate or corner hard (anger issues), they seem to do alright.

Is it possible you are overrating the mushy, squishy feel of winter tires in terms of the effect on at-the-limit capability?

Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
Around 12 years ago I was using all seasons in the summer (Michelin MXV4s) and Michelin XMS100 in the winter. When we had that run of El Nino winters where the Toronto area had almost no snow I left the all seasons on because the braking performance was so much better in the wet/dry that we were seeing that winter.


I'm with you there. Even though I enjoy true winter driving with my winter tires, especially the big snowfall days, I strongly prefer my summer all-seasons in the absence of snow and ice. I kept them on through the few minor snowfalls we've had so far until a couple of days ago, when it started snowing and the seasonal norms made it likely that all my city driving would be on a layer of snow and ice from that point on. But I've done long warm weather spring road trips to the mountains with my winter tires, and I didn't feel like it was a hardship!

Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
All of the points you raise in this paragraph are valid but are, IMO, an argument for a top-notch set of all-seasons or all-weathers if you aren't going to bother changing tires, not a good argument to run snows all year.


Probably out east! But there are driving situations and locations where I'd prefer to compromise warm weather performance instead of winter performance, if it came down to having to choose.

Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
Yet we need to pay far more than $5000 in a lifetime on car insurance.


A second set of tires certainly is a minimal expense relative to the other costs of operating a vehicle. Almost everyone I know has two sets. But I don't have intimate knowledge about the driving conditions in many other North American locations, so maybe even that minimal expense is unnecessary for some.
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Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
One of my repeated points is that I (personally) find the effect dramatic even when my snows are in their proper temperature range. In the scorching heat of summer I don't think it would be a few "hundreths of a g".


Although it was only 77F and sunny during the Car and Driver Goodyear test, I think it demonstrates that performance doesn't fall off that badly. The warm dry skidpad result was .85g for the summer tire, .81g for the all-season tire, and .79g for the high-performance winter tire. So it's only a spread of six hundredths between the summer tire and the high-performance winter tire, and only two hundredths between a quality all-season and a high-performance winter tire. Sure, the effect on braking distance and handling is significant, but I think it's extremely rare that it would be a contributing factor in determining severity of a driving incident.

I also have no doubt that it's possible to buy cheap all-seasons with less warm weather traction than a decent winter tire. I've driven a couple of cars with "Traction B" tires, and was surprised at how easily I exceeded the limits.

Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
And for those drivers who drive around unaware of where the limits are for their current vehicle and conditions, they (and others) might be in for quite a surprise when they actually need full capability.


I feel far more confident in my braking and handling on winter tires than when I'm driving a large truck or SUV, and there are many people who drive those vehicles even when they don't need to. If you can understand why people are willing to do that, then you should be able to understand why driving in summer on winter tires wouldn't bother some people.
 
Resurrecting an old thread for a discussion. I have a 2001 Camry that is my get-around-town car. I put roughly 500 miles on the vehicle per month; my work commute is 2.6 miles round trip and we use my wife's van any time the kids are with us. All this to say that the car very hardly is ever more than 10 miles from home.

The Camry needs four new tires. The Uniroyal Tiger Paws I have on the car are right around 4/32" or 3/32". They've been on the car for as long as I can remember, maybe six years or more.

I live in NW Illinois so we have four distinct seasons. Summers can get up to the 90s and winters can get down to -10s from time-to-time.

I work in a Ford service department and thus can get tires for very close to cost. I priced out some new 205/60R15 tires for the car and my parts manager mentioned Dunlop Graspic DS-3 winter tires. They were recently discontinued and so they are on closeout/clearance pricing, but with no tread warranty. My cost would be $39.45/tire plus tax. To me, that sounds like a deal. I would be keeping the tires on the car year-round.

A little more about the car- it has 138k miles on it and is, as I mentioned, only used to get to work and back. I will likely be replacing it in the next 2-3 years; I don't plan on ever putting another set of tires on it because I just don't plan on keeping it too much longer. That's why I'm considering these cheap tires, just to hold me over until getting a new car in 2-3 years.
 
Originally Posted By: EricBeau
Resurrecting an old thread for a discussion. I have a 2001 Camry that is my get-around-town car. I put roughly 500 miles on the vehicle per month; my work commute is 2.6 miles round trip and we use my wife's van any time the kids are with us. All this to say that the car very hardly is ever more than 10 miles from home.

The Camry needs four new tires. The Uniroyal Tiger Paws I have on the car are right around 4/32" or 3/32". They've been on the car for as long as I can remember, maybe six years or more.

I live in NW Illinois so we have four distinct seasons. Summers can get up to the 90s and winters can get down to -10s from time-to-time.

I work in a Ford service department and thus can get tires for very close to cost. I priced out some new 205/60R15 tires for the car and my parts manager mentioned Dunlop Graspic DS-3 winter tires. They were recently discontinued and so they are on closeout/clearance pricing, but with no tread warranty. My cost would be $39.45/tire plus tax. To me, that sounds like a deal. I would be keeping the tires on the car year-round.

A little more about the car- it has 138k miles on it and is, as I mentioned, only used to get to work and back. I will likely be replacing it in the next 2-3 years; I don't plan on ever putting another set of tires on it because I just don't plan on keeping it too much longer. That's why I'm considering these cheap tires, just to hold me over until getting a new car in 2-3 years.


The risk here is mostly about a tread separating - which could damage the car. That is only going to happen after a few years - so on the surface, this seems like a good plan.

HOWEVER - I've seen these "I'll replace the car in about 2 years" - turn into 10 years. I've also seen these "The car is only driving 3 miles at a time" - turn into an hour long trip to Grandma's (just this once!). Both of those increase the risk of failure tremendously. The question is: How much more is a regular set of tires? Is it worth the additional cost to avoid the risk of taking out a fender!
 
The risk here is mostly about a tread separating - which could damage the car. That is only going to happen after a few years - so on the surface, this seems like a good plan.

HOWEVER - I've seen these "I'll replace the car in about 2 years" - turn into 10 years. I've also seen these "The car is only driving 3 miles at a time" - turn into an hour long trip to Grandma's (just this once!). Both of those increase the risk of failure tremendously. The question is: How much more is a regular set of tires? Is it worth the additional cost to avoid the risk of taking out a fender![/quote]
Originally Posted By: mightymousetech
Leaving winters on all year is a really, really, really bad idea.


Thank you both for your insight! Much appreciated.
 
If you have to do this try performance winters, the higher the speed rating the better.
They should survive summer better than studless or studable ones.
But all seasons or all weather (Toyo Celsius, Nokian WR G2/3) are much better choice for such scenario.

Krzys
 
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