Grease / Anti on Wheels

Joined
Jul 17, 2003
Messages
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Location
New York
Never a huge fan of AntiSieze on exposed applications - in this discussed, the wheel hub .
Since I am removing the wheel, I am going to take the opportunity to remove on this *new car* the rotor retaining screw and put some anti-sieze on it

Snow shoes going on, summer shoes come back on in spring.
Given the frequency of removal : reinstall, would you bother putting grease/anti seize on the wheel hub.
Both do make it a slight bit more work on cleanup - when I take them off and clean them up for the next season.
 
Never a huge fan of AntiSieze on exposed applications - in this discussed, the wheel hub .
Since I am removing the wheel, I am going to take the opportunity to remove on this *new car* the rotor retaining screw and put some anti-sieze on it

Snow shoes going on, summer shoes come back on in spring.
Given the frequency of removal : reinstall, would you bother putting grease/anti seize on the wheel hub.
Both do make it a slight bit more work on cleanup - when I take them off and clean them up for the next season.

Yes I would. 6 months is ample time to rustifuse a wheel to a hub. Some makes are worse than others with this.
 
I spray with Krown or FF.
less messy than grease/seize if you get it on your pantleg etc.
 
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I haven't applied anything during seasonal wheel changes - until this fall. The alloy summer wheels on our Tiguan were very reluctant to come off due to corrosion. I applied anti-seize to the face of the rotors (only where they meet the wheels), so hopefully the spring changeover is less of a pain.

As others have mentioned, don't put anything on the studs (or in my case, wheel bolts).
 
I've always used neverseize on wherever the wheel and hub touch, being careful to avoid the threads.
I put anti-seize on the threads to prevent the threads from getting stripped.

Where the lug nut contacts the wheel is the friction needed to hold the wheel on.
 
light coat of anti-seize where wheel meets hub bore and wheel touches rotor hat. I haven't had any issues with the studs/lugs since I torque them correctly. That gets done at least 2x per year for the seasonal change overs.
 
Never a huge fan of AntiSieze on exposed applications - in this discussed, the wheel hub .
Since I am removing the wheel, I am going to take the opportunity to remove on this *new car* the rotor retaining screw and put some anti-sieze on it

Snow shoes going on, summer shoes come back on in spring.
Given the frequency of removal : reinstall, would you bother putting grease/anti seize on the wheel hub.
Both do make it a slight bit more work on cleanup - when I take them off and clean them up for the next season.
With the frequency you mentioned, I would not use anti seize on the wheel hub.
 
Copper anti-seize where the wheel meets the hub. Every time I get new winter tires I have to bring out the mallet next spring because no shop I've been to bothers with this step.
 
Always. The times I've not, I've regretted--"oh tire rotation is in only a few months". Yeah, you forgot, Toyota uses really tight clearance on their hub centric design. Quick wipe of sandpaper and some anti seize, done. Dab it back on going forward.

I try to avoid the studs but sheesh, I couldn't could color between the lines in kindergarten either.
 
I worked most of my life at a forklift dealership not only maintaining well over a 1,000 fork lifts both rentals and customer units we also worked on a fleet of our Ford vans company cars and 4 Class 8 vehicles, Anti seeze went on all all the wheel lugs etc
 
Helping my neighbor with his 4Runner today. I let him take the wheels off. He got new tires about 1 year ago. Alloy wheels and Steel hubs on Hubcentric wheels. He was kicking back and forth, cursing etc. I showed him why after he finally got them loose.

Reminded him about changing a flat roadside, night, rain/snow. He said no F'n way I would gotten that if you didn't tell me.
 
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