First off-thanks for the replies.
Now, why do you think your Toyo loved M1 enough to actually drink the stuff?
Ideas?
Scott
Now, why do you think your Toyo loved M1 enough to actually drink the stuff?
Ideas?
Scott
Just bought new Corolla oil suggestions
- Thread starter Rick
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Ok first of no offence to all, but how many people here that have said hail to the dino and live in a climate where they will see -20 to -30 weather in the winter?
This is the main reason why I'm considering the change.
Unless we all think here that dino will suffice at those temps then I will continue the dino change at the fact recommended 8k per.
This is the main reason why I'm considering the change.
Unless we all think here that dino will suffice at those temps then I will continue the dino change at the fact recommended 8k per.
The GL-4 is not used to "gain" anything. It's used for compatibility reasons, at least in some transmissions. For example, the VAG trannies contain brass synchros which are easily damaged by the EP additives in typical GL-5 gear oils (Mobil 1 75w-90). That is why I was asking if he knows if the car is OK with GL-4/GL-5 or if GL-4 specifically must be used. Most cars are OK with it.
I'd say do it at the NEXT OEM recommended OCI. No real need to dump perfectly good oil due to some notion/fear that the auto workers' contract still calls for "shop floor waste to be dumped into brand new engines!!"
I ran my new 2004 Honda Civic (I got this instead of a 2004 Toyota Corolla) to the 10,000 mile oem recommended oci. It runs like the proverbial top at 25,000 miles. My mileage horizon is 250.000 and beyond.
I did however follow my own advice and went to 0w20 Mobil One at the recommended interval of 10,000 miles.
Toyota tranmission fluid is much less persnickety than Honda's tranmission fluid. However why change it before its time?
I use Mobil One gear oil in a Z06 Corvette and indeed it is wonderful stuff. But even though I made the switch, in my opinion it is just plain overkill, unless you have some significant miles on the vehicle.
I ran my new 2004 Honda Civic (I got this instead of a 2004 Toyota Corolla) to the 10,000 mile oem recommended oci. It runs like the proverbial top at 25,000 miles. My mileage horizon is 250.000 and beyond.
I did however follow my own advice and went to 0w20 Mobil One at the recommended interval of 10,000 miles.
Toyota tranmission fluid is much less persnickety than Honda's tranmission fluid. However why change it before its time?
I use Mobil One gear oil in a Z06 Corvette and indeed it is wonderful stuff. But even though I made the switch, in my opinion it is just plain overkill, unless you have some significant miles on the vehicle.
Rick I would use XD-3 in 0W30 year round in it. It is cheaper then M1 in Canada and has turned in great numbers!! I would use the following gear oils listed in order of preference Specialty Formulations,Redline MTL, and Royal Purple Max Gear.
I have a 2005 Matrix (same engine) and have about 25K on it since June of 05. As Bill said my experiences with synth have been so-so. My Matrix has seem M1, GC, and Pennz Plat for Synths. In fact right now I'm about 2600 into my OIC with Pennz Plat in there now (5W30).
In my case the Matrix has seemed to run the best on Chevron and a Purolater L14477 as far as smoothness and noise. Engine is a whole lot noisier with synth in it vs dino...is that hurting the engine? Doubt it. That being said I'll be using up the last 2 3/4 bottles of my SL Chevron with a bottle of Havoline SL mixed in to top it off. Bill taunts me all the time with his .49 Chevron while all I can muster is my 1.08 Havoline
Seriously, I even brought back 12 qts of Pre Katrina M1 to Wally World today because I'll probably never use it. I'm sticking to 5k changes due to the warranty so why waste the synthetic stuff
As far as your temps..yeah...that may justify the synth but I'll let someone who knows a little bit more on that chime in
Anyways I have a boatload of Havoline to use so thats what my Trix will be having for the foreseeable future...might mix in a change of Kendall Gt1 Synth Blend....good choice in wheels!
Goose
In my case the Matrix has seemed to run the best on Chevron and a Purolater L14477 as far as smoothness and noise. Engine is a whole lot noisier with synth in it vs dino...is that hurting the engine? Doubt it. That being said I'll be using up the last 2 3/4 bottles of my SL Chevron with a bottle of Havoline SL mixed in to top it off. Bill taunts me all the time with his .49 Chevron while all I can muster is my 1.08 Havoline
Seriously, I even brought back 12 qts of Pre Katrina M1 to Wally World today because I'll probably never use it. I'm sticking to 5k changes due to the warranty so why waste the synthetic stuff
As far as your temps..yeah...that may justify the synth but I'll let someone who knows a little bit more on that chime in
Anyways I have a boatload of Havoline to use so thats what my Trix will be having for the foreseeable future...might mix in a change of Kendall Gt1 Synth Blend....good choice in wheels!
Goose
The transmission can use GL4 or GL5. You really do not gain anything with Toyota manual transmissions buy useing a GL4 only fluid in most cases. The only reason RP MaxGear was so far down my list is mostly due to it's poor cold weather shift performance after about 10,000 miles. It is still better then most fluids but is not better then the two I put ahead of it. It does however have the best Timken load rateing.
It all comes down to what you want to do.
Personally, I like synthetic for both the oil and the trans but that's just me.
Personally, I like synthetic for both the oil and the trans but that's just me.
Do what makes you happy. If I lived where you do I'd use syn in both engine/gearbox.
Rick,
What does it normally get down to in the winter there?
I've seen 27 below but normal winters we may see a few days in the sub zeros. Normally a week or two max..
My sister lives in MT and all of her outfits have ever seen is 5w-30 dino the last few years.
Before, they ran 10w-30!
Lets face it, do all the cars in Alaska use Syn? no. 50% of them? No. I'd bet it's way less than 10% and cars are working and lasting up there.
I've started cars both on Syn and Dino and Blends and at single digits it made no difference. I start it up wait 30secs and drive softly until it warms up. I'm at 2800 rpm within 2 mins and UOAs show low metals. My other cars/trucks have seen high hundreds / 200k+ miles with no problems.
I think in real low temps, plugging it in works much better than Syn oil for helping the super cold start.
I know in Air Cooled Airplane motors, once you get below 32 degrees, pre heat is really needed and it does not matter what oil you use. The engine manuals state this.
But, in the end it's what you want to do.
I plan to keep my Corolla till it's end and get at least 300k on it. As fast as I'm putting on the miles, we will see sooner than later!
It will be no problem to make it. Heck, if my old 1986 VW jetta can make it to 260k and show no signs of slowing down using yesterdays oils, with todays conventional oils its much eaiser.
Some people will disagree and spend the $$. Thats ok, it's their $$.
You'll notice that the Toyota Manual shows use SL oil (my 2005) and shows 5w-30 from -20f to 100f+ and -29C to 38c+. Says nothing about Syn anywhere in the manual (I just looked).
The only difference I see for Canada is anti-freeze. USA use 50/50 and Canada use 55%/45% water.
So Rick, How cold has it been so far since you've owned the car and how is it running? I can tell you there is dino oil in there right now.
Take care, Bill
What does it normally get down to in the winter there?
I've seen 27 below but normal winters we may see a few days in the sub zeros. Normally a week or two max..
My sister lives in MT and all of her outfits have ever seen is 5w-30 dino the last few years.
Before, they ran 10w-30!
Lets face it, do all the cars in Alaska use Syn? no. 50% of them? No. I'd bet it's way less than 10% and cars are working and lasting up there.
I've started cars both on Syn and Dino and Blends and at single digits it made no difference. I start it up wait 30secs and drive softly until it warms up. I'm at 2800 rpm within 2 mins and UOAs show low metals. My other cars/trucks have seen high hundreds / 200k+ miles with no problems.
I think in real low temps, plugging it in works much better than Syn oil for helping the super cold start.
I know in Air Cooled Airplane motors, once you get below 32 degrees, pre heat is really needed and it does not matter what oil you use. The engine manuals state this.
But, in the end it's what you want to do.
I plan to keep my Corolla till it's end and get at least 300k on it. As fast as I'm putting on the miles, we will see sooner than later!
It will be no problem to make it. Heck, if my old 1986 VW jetta can make it to 260k and show no signs of slowing down using yesterdays oils, with todays conventional oils its much eaiser.
Some people will disagree and spend the $$. Thats ok, it's their $$.
You'll notice that the Toyota Manual shows use SL oil (my 2005) and shows 5w-30 from -20f to 100f+ and -29C to 38c+. Says nothing about Syn anywhere in the manual (I just looked).
The only difference I see for Canada is anti-freeze. USA use 50/50 and Canada use 55%/45% water.
So Rick, How cold has it been so far since you've owned the car and how is it running? I can tell you there is dino oil in there right now.
Take care, Bill
Rick,
I have a Honda CRV and a Mazda Protege in Ottawa. Right now I have Mobil1 5W30 in Honda and Syntec 5W30 in Mazda. Honda always starts with no effort all winter. It sits in a garage, no insulation or heat. Mazda takes a couple of extra seconds but starts fine.
While dino 5W30 would work, I am certain that synthetic helps engine start more easily and causes less wear, which is why I use 100% synthetic during winter. I discovered Esso XD3 0W30 which seems to be great according to UOAs, yet costs almost half of Mobil1, so I am switching to it for the next winter. I am also considering mixing in 1L of Mobil1 0W20. In any case I would at least use a synth blend, like a QS Winter Something (forget the exact name). Also I would use 5W30 at most, maybe go down to 5W20 or mix them.
As for tranny, I am simply using default type that dealer puts in.
P.S.: For our neighbours in the USA, the difference is that while most of you see occasional dips to 0F to -10F, we have consistent temperatures between 0F and -10F, then dip to -20F and -30F. There are only a couple of states (maybe Montana) that have the same type of winter. Then again with global warming this winter we have had above average temps, so ... who knows.
I have a Honda CRV and a Mazda Protege in Ottawa. Right now I have Mobil1 5W30 in Honda and Syntec 5W30 in Mazda. Honda always starts with no effort all winter. It sits in a garage, no insulation or heat. Mazda takes a couple of extra seconds but starts fine.
While dino 5W30 would work, I am certain that synthetic helps engine start more easily and causes less wear, which is why I use 100% synthetic during winter. I discovered Esso XD3 0W30 which seems to be great according to UOAs, yet costs almost half of Mobil1, so I am switching to it for the next winter. I am also considering mixing in 1L of Mobil1 0W20. In any case I would at least use a synth blend, like a QS Winter Something (forget the exact name). Also I would use 5W30 at most, maybe go down to 5W20 or mix them.
As for tranny, I am simply using default type that dealer puts in.
P.S.: For our neighbours in the USA, the difference is that while most of you see occasional dips to 0F to -10F, we have consistent temperatures between 0F and -10F, then dip to -20F and -30F. There are only a couple of states (maybe Montana) that have the same type of winter. Then again with global warming this winter we have had above average temps, so ... who knows.
Bill,quote:
3. My Dads 2001 Civic needing a new long block at 14k miles.
Why did it need a new block, what happened ??
My mom also has an 01' Civic LX
I think that what happened to your DAD is not really uncommon, despite the expression of shock on the assumption (I.E.,) Honda's reputation for reliability, quality, etc. etc. However the Japanese do have a reputation for having less % cars that go on the fritz despite the fact that almost EVERY automaker tries to keep one from coming to the real numbers and %'s.
This of course works against the Am oems in that when small things do happen folks say SEE its an AM car so therefore we EXPECT lower quality, higher % going bad, etc, etc.
This of course works against the Am oems in that when small things do happen folks say SEE its an AM car so therefore we EXPECT lower quality, higher % going bad, etc, etc.
Quatro Pete, Some exotic fluids like Redline MTL are billed as a GL4 replacement and are not recomended in GL5 applications. In some vechiles the use of GL5 type fluids will cause notchy shifting even if they are able to use GL5 type lubes. The exotic GL4 only fluids on the market are usualy well known for their silky shift feel. Some people switch to a GL4 only fluid to enhance shift feel in their transmissions. In most Toyota's(excludeing early MR2's based on the Lotus-90 design and Supra's)do not respond too much to various gear lubes and it is usualy better to get the added AW/EP additives in the GL5 based fluid. That was what I meant about not benifitting from GL4 only lubes. Most OTC synthetics are dual rated as GL4/GL5 and these will work just fine in 90% of the transmissions Toyota has ever made car or truck. Toyota use's very agresive synchro's and helical cut gear's. They also use very little yellow metal in their gear box's.
He had always had a good leak. The local Honda Dealer (
After the many visits and still leaking oil, my Dad started getting upset that we were not getting anywhere. I went with him once and told the Service Manager to steam clean the engine (they would just gunk spray the engine and go from there) and put some Dye in the oil and let us go for a drive and come back and shoot the engine.
" Honda will not approve that so no can do " is what his comment was.
It was leaking about a 2-3" circle when you got home on the floor. It was from the back of the motor and it's VERY tight on Hondas there.
So, I had my Dad call Honda and make an appt with the Area Manager. He had us go to another dealer (50 miles one way) and they steamed the motor and put Dye in and found the block had holes in it! About a 4 inch section that was allowing oil to seep out.
Honda put in a long block (took 2-3 weeks to do) and the rest is history. The car right now is in someone elses ownership (my Dad bought a Honda powered VUE) and just turned over 100k miles with only a few problems.
Sorry to be long winded (yeah right)
Take care, bill
As another owner of a 05 Corolla 5 speed, I am presently on my first run of XD-3 0W-30 after 2 dino OCI's. I will go about 13 months and around only 6000-7000 km on this OCI. Car is driven very little since last year.
Bill, I have my flame suit on!
The XD3 may be overkill in my case but I sleep tight keeping it a full year with this little mileage, instead of running 2 dino OCI's for a bit more dough.
I have not driven nor started the car much in very cold temps this winter as it has been fairly mild compare to last winter and my car is garaged at 55-60F, so can not attest to the starting superiority of the 0W-30 above dino 05-30.
As for the manual transaxle, I have 2 liters of Shell Spirax ASX 75W-90 (GL-5) full synthetic, that I got from my brother and plan to use it this summer.
He put the stuff in his wife's Jetta TDI without telling her and she came back raving about how smooth her transmission had become. Says it all!
Bill, I have my flame suit on!
The XD3 may be overkill in my case but I sleep tight keeping it a full year with this little mileage, instead of running 2 dino OCI's for a bit more dough.
I have not driven nor started the car much in very cold temps this winter as it has been fairly mild compare to last winter and my car is garaged at 55-60F, so can not attest to the starting superiority of the 0W-30 above dino 05-30.
As for the manual transaxle, I have 2 liters of Shell Spirax ASX 75W-90 (GL-5) full synthetic, that I got from my brother and plan to use it this summer.
He put the stuff in his wife's Jetta TDI without telling her and she came back raving about how smooth her transmission had become. Says it all!
Rick, if the tranny takes GL4 consider the 1/2 and 1/2 Redline MTL and MT-90. (Do a search on the site) The cold weather shifting properties in my echo were much better with this brew. I'm sorry I waited to 60K miles!
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