Hyundia / Kia GDI 1.6 oil thoughts

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted by Chris142
Purolater filters have been tearing which let's unfiltered oil bypass the filter. The cheapest frams don't tear.

Purolator oil filters do have a bad reputation in the past few years, no doubt. Do not buy them, unless its a Purolator Boss, which is OK.
Frams had a bad reputation, possibly undeserved, about 12 years ago or so.
The Fram Ultra oil filter is about the best oil filter on the market these days. Filters best, durable, silicone rubber ADBV, all good. Buy it.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

More like several years.
Seems to hardly ever - or never affect the top-of-the-line Bosch and Purolator Boss filters.
Perhaps Purolator should build all their filters more like those two tanks.

 

[Mainia]

Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
Originally Posted by ChrisJ
What is M1? Group 4?
Most Mobil1 oils (and there are many variations) use some PAO mixed with Group3 base oils. There is a type of base oil made from natural gas which is about as good as PAO, known as Group3+, and that is Shell's (Pennzoil) pureplus, in Platinum and others. Stick with M1 EP or AP, although Pennzoil Platinum is also very good. ....
About the LSPI issue, as long as the oil jug or bottle says either "SN Plus" or "dexos1 Gen2", then it has been tested to be resistant to LSPI, and about all oils on the shelves have these ratings currently, so its rarely an issue at all in 2019 (yesterday's news). About LSPI being especially bad with PAO, that's not true as long as the overall chemistry supports LSPI resistance, which any SN Plus or dexos1 Gen2 oil will have proven to.



Pennzoil Euro 5w-40 just received a Dexos1 Gen 2 rating or SN Plus rating . Hyundai lets us use "5w-40" with no spec I might add. Almost all 5w-40's are very high calcium/sodium which is a LSPI no-no. The exception of Amsoil, one version of Ravenol 5w-40 and now what seems to be a speced oil from Pennzoil. I have not seen a VOA of it yet, but hopefully it is 1,300ppm and below of Ca. I was scouring all high @100C 5-40 for my summer oil that was low in calcium for my 1.6T. As long as the oil is below 1,300ppm Ca and very very low sodium I treat it as OK and just a non approved LSPI loving oil. Like most Mobil 1 oils, except racing versions Mobil knew about LSPI years before it was an issue and dropped all their oils to a safe Ca zone for reduced LSPI precursors. Hence my use of 5-30 Mobil 1 ESP with it's 1,100 Ca as my winter oil.

 

[StevieC]

A 20wt in a Turbo application is fine if the heat is well controlled which it usually is. That said if you have the option in the manual to run a 30wt I would do so for added protection because of the high amount of heat that can be generated in the Turbo which can thin out the oil at excessive temperatures it generates and this can increase the chance of metal to metal contact under these extremes, although with water cooled turbos today reducing this problem they still can be quite taxing on the oil.

Also IMO only a full-synthetic should be used and not a semi-synthetic, to decrease deposits. So your M1 EP 5w30 would be fine.

Following this above has worked well in my cousins 1.6 TGDI Veloster and it's got high miles.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

An SN PLus / Dexos oil that caught my eye recently was the new Castrol Edge 5w30. Unusual to see it's recipe as approx 850 Calcium and 1250 Magnesium.
It's the black bottle and I'm keeping an eye for more UOAs/VOAs on it.

 

[Mainia]

Originally Posted by StevieC
A 20wt in a Turbo application is fine if the heat is well controlled which it usually is, in those calling for this weight. That said if you have the option in the manual to run a 30wt I would do so for added protection because of the high amount of heat that can be generated in the Turbo, although water cooled today they still can be taxing on the oil. Also IMO only a full-synthetic should be used when there is a Turbo and not a semi-synthetic do decrease deposits.

It has worked well in my cousins 1.6 TGDI Veloster and it's got high miles.


I researched what turbo rebuilders and tuners wanted in oil for turbos and most wanted thicker oil and that is why I won't let my oil go below 8.5 @100C in the winter with fuel dilution and 9.5 minimum in the summer with high heat. That can't happen with 5w-20 oils. And ESPECIALLY with a Hyundai and their mystery boundary layer oil issue with 11% of their cars. Their TSB posting of MANDATING the only oil they want in their Hyundai/Kia 2.0T motors is NOW 5w-40 and not 5w-30 that was initially speced for the turbo cars "speaks volumes"

 

[ChrisJ]

Is fuel dilution issue for me with my long trips? Shouldn't that cook any fuel out of the oil?

 

[Mainia]

Long trips is what you strive for to get the oil temp up to help flash off what fuel you can, but a GDI is still a GDI and it won't fix it 100%. You are just in a preferred scenario for reduced fuel dilution.

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted by ChrisJ
Is fuel dilution issue for me with my long trips? Shouldn't that cook any fuel out of the oil?
Right, long trips reduce fuel dilution. A little fuel dilution is OK, though some engines get a lot which makes it wise to go to the next thicker oil than the minimum spec in the Owner's Manual says.
Above, somebody mentioned the new Pennzoil 5w-40 oil that is now SN+, which means they did test it for LSPI. (A 5w-40 can't be dexos1 at all, since its not a defined valid grade allowed.)
Generally, that 5w-40 is great in summer-time racing or towing applications where there is a lot of heat, and its thickness means it fights fuel dilution well.
In the Kia GDI 1.6L, I'd go with M1 EP or AP 5w30 for a common stash for all our vehcles. Rotella Gas Truck 5w30 would work there too. Really any dexos1 Gen2 5w30 for that application.

 

[walterjay]

I have been using QSUD 5-30 in both of my Hyundai engines. And being a GDI I never go over 5,500 miles for an oil change.

 

[ChrisJ]

Originally Posted by walterjay
I have been using QSUD 5-30 in both of my Hyundai engines. And being a GDI I never go over 5,500 miles for an oil change.



Why does the manufacturer of if say 7500 then?

5500 miles I'd be changing it every 3 months.

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted by Mainia
Originally Posted by StevieC
A 20wt in a Turbo application is fine if the heat is well controlled which it usually is, in those calling for this weight. That said if you have the option in the manual to run a 30wt I would do so for added protection because of the high amount of heat that can be generated in the Turbo, although water cooled today they still can be taxing on the oil. Also IMO only a full-synthetic should be used when there is a Turbo and not a semi-synthetic do decrease deposits.

It has worked well in my cousins 1.6 TGDI Veloster and it's got high miles.


I researched what turbo rebuilders and tuners wanted in oil for turbos and most wanted thicker oil and that is why I won't let my oil go below 8.5 @100C in the winter with fuel dilution and 9.5 minimum in the summer with high heat. That can't happen with 5w-20 oils. And ESPECIALLY with a Hyundai and their mystery boundary layer oil issue with 11% of their cars. Their TSB posting of MANDATING the only oil they want in their Hyundai/Kia 2.0T motors is NOW 5w-40 and not 5w-30 that was initially speced for the turbo cars "speaks volumes"

Which is why I said I would run a 30wt. What I meant by my comment about 20wt's was that it won't cause instant death but it's not ideal in Turbo applications and that it's less of an issue with water cooling the turbo and lower oil temperatures from increased sump sizes and engine oil coolers so they are starting off with oil that is much less than 100c so the time it spends in the 100c and even higher temperatures under turbo stress is limited duration. So not ideal by our standards and why we would want to run a 30wt instead but not a problem for the average driver under average engine life they expect before dumping the vehicle. (Or those not beating on the turbo)

 

[Triple_Se7en]

The 5w40 that's now SN Plus, doesn't mean Dexos1Gen2 is included.

I look for both when shopping.

 

[caprice_2nv]

Originally Posted by ChrisJ
Originally Posted by walterjay
I have been using QSUD 5-30 in both of my Hyundai engines. And being a GDI I never go over 5,500 miles for an oil change.



Why does the manufacturer of if say 7500 then?

5500 miles I'd be changing it every 3 months.




The manufacturer doesn't seem to even know why their engines are failing (the 2.0t and 2.4 GDI anyways) so I wouldn't personally put much faith in their OCI. My girlfriend is doing 3 month conventional intervals in her GDI Sonata because the oil becomes completely black in the winter, even immediately after an oil change. It smells like gas in the oil and it gets short tripped 95% of the time.

I would go 7500 miles maximum until your warranty is up just in case. After the warranty is up, pull the cam cover and if it looks good and isn't burning oil maybe go back to the 10k mile changes. Stick with the oil your using in everything else unless you want to change to something cheaper for the shorter intervals.

 

[Danno]

Originally Posted by ChrisJ
Originally Posted by Danno
I have the 1.6L GDI in our 2015 KIA Rio. Small sump at 3.8 quarts. And it puts out a decent amount of power at that displacement.
I change the oil at 3750 miles as per KIA Canada requirements.
If I had your KIA, I would use a good conventional such as PYB or QSGB. 5W-30 and change it at 5,000 mile interval, with an OEM oil filter.
GDI seems to beat up oil quicker than port injected engines.


Hi Danno,

Thank you for taking the time to respond.

If the engine seems to beat up oil faster, why recommend a conventional oil?


Save a few bucks per oil change, and beat up in terms of fuel dilution.
Conventional can flush that out as well as synthetic.

 

[ChrisD46]

For a turbo 1.6 I believe you would be better off with any current DEXOS 1 / GEN 2 ; SN+ 5W30 Synthetic Oil for 5,000 mile OCI and Fram Ultra Oil Filter such as :

Mobil 1 5W30
Pennzoil Platinum 5W30
Quaker State Ultimate 5W30
Valvoline Advanced 5W30

*All of the above are available at WM
*Pick which ever is on sale

 

[ChrisJ]

Originally Posted by ChrisD46
For a turbo 1.6 I believe you would be better off with any current DEXOS 1 / GEN 2 ; SN+ 5W30 Synthetic Oil for 5,000 mile OCI and Fram Ultra Oil Filter such as :

Mobil 1 5W30
Pennzoil Platinum 5W30
Quaker State Ultimate 5W30
Valvoline Advanced 5W30

*All of the above are available at WM
*Pick which ever is on sale



This is a non-turbo 1.6 unfortunately.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Easy answer. Use the same M1 EP 5W30 in the hyundai you have stashed for you other cars. No Worries.
None.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

A-lot has changed between that 2012 GM vehicle and now current & new 2019 Hyundai.
One of the changes indicates earlier OCIs and it would be a shame to dump Mobil-1 EP every 5-6K.

Times are a'changin in the industry and until manufacturers get a better handle on how to make these TDGI/GDI & Turbos run cleaner, move to a less expensive oil and filter like Mobil-1 regular and lesser Fram/OEM filters.