HUB Assembly Replacement

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I have a 2008 Dodge Caravan SE model with the 3.3L. The HUB assembly on the passenger front side failed again. This will be the 4th one since 2013. This time I've purchased the MOPAR version of the HUB assembly. Is there any reason to why I need to replace the assembly that many times? Any insight would be appreciated thanks..
 
It could be coincidental but I would check the alignment of the wheel it might be putting undue stress on it as well as the other 3 wheels in relation to that one wheel.
 
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Improperly torqued axle nut will cause it too

So will poorly sized aftermarket wheels. Mind your scrub radius

Timken makes quality bearings
 
I think Dodge had a bulletin on that issue. Every time I had it changed it was aligned. I'm going to have them to check the knuckle/knee assembly when they take it off.
 
Lack of grease from the factory? If it has a integrated ABS sensor and you can see the tone ring after removing the sensor pump the hub with grease. I've done it on my Silverado and it has 157,000mi on the original 16 year old hubs.
 
Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
Improperly torqued axle nut will cause it too


^ This. Timken has gone down the toilet for most application OE or SKF would be my my choice.
 
I have a similar issue with my 06 Dodge caravan on the right rear. It's on it's 4th, the others are all fine. Weird. No axle nut to be torqued on the rears either.
 
Make sure you are reading the right torque spec. My GP is 118 ft/lbs, but some published specs are much higher and wrong. I knew it was the lower number when I took it off. Some people on some car forums have quoted 151 which will ruin it.
 
Curious to get other people's thoughts on the importance of torquing the hub nut (from the CV axle) properly. On some vehicles, the torque on the hub affects the wheel bearing pre-load, which is why it's so critical and affects bearing lifespan.

However, some hubs are designed such that the hub piece that the CV shaft goes through is just a solid piece of metal which does not affect the bearing at all. Torque on the hub nut serves only the secure the CV axle shaft to the wheel hub. In this case, I would argue that torque should have no affect on bearing life...as long as it's not loose enough to be shaking everything apart.

Example of a Ford Freestar front wheel hub that I recently worked on:
https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-513232
 
I just ordered a set of these rear assemblies for my Fusion. I've ordered from 1A Auto in the past, and their products have always worked nicely.

One reason I went with these ones is the fact that they come with lifetime warranty, as opposed to 1-year/12,000 miles that I saw on quite a few others. Also, reviews that I saw for them were all good, so I figured they'd be worth the go.

You might see what they have for your Caravan.
 
Originally Posted By: nobb
Torque on the hub nut serves only the secure the CV axle shaft to the wheel hub. In this case, I would argue that torque should have no affect on bearing life...as long as it's not loose enough to be shaking everything apart.


Toyotas are like that - the hub presses into the bearing and the outer CV joint slips into it. You can theoretically bear down on the axle nut - but I would still torque to spec when possible.
 
I don't buy the over torqued nuts unless they are something crazy where they are almost shearing the studs off. Simple gunning them on with a double check of the gun is all my dad and I have done over the years on many Chrysler vehicles and have had 0 issues with this resulting in wheel bearings or loose wheels for that matter.

What we have seen is alignment problems causing it or just failure due to defect/age.

We have had the wheels off thousands of Chryslers over the years.
 
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Originally Posted By: StevieC
I don't buy the over torqued nuts unless they are something crazy where they are almost shearing the studs off


You don't have to buy it, that's the way it is. On some vehicles the axle nut torque is super critical and hubs will fail quickly is not torqued properly. Others don't seem to mind what the torque is but its always a good idea to use a torque it to spec, using a zip gun is really a hack job.
 
Well, I've already ordered them and received them, so I'm going to give them a shot. If they wear out prematurely, then I guess we'll know, and I'll go for the SKFs and chalk it up to a learning experience. If not, then I'll remember them in another couple hundred thousand miles.
 
Our company makes automotive hub units. Axle nut torque is important. Our company is in constant battle with automotive service departments that simply gun them on. It tees us off because it increases our warranty costs with no way to prove the service departments are at fault.

Dig out the proper torque spec and tighten the axle nut to that specification.
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
I don't buy the over torqued nuts unless they are something crazy where they are almost shearing the studs off. Simple gunning them on with a double check of the gun is all my dad and I have done over the years on many Chrysler vehicles and have had 0 issues with this resulting in wheel bearings or loose wheels for that matter.

What we have seen is alignment problems causing it or just failure due to defect/age.

We have had the wheels off thousands of Chryslers over the years.


That's a contrary opinion! I've been reusing axle nuts for a while though, so I believe it.
 
Originally Posted By: Kestas
Our company makes automotive hub units. Axle nut torque is important. Our company is in constant battle with automotive service departments that simply gun them on. It tees us off because it increases our warranty costs with no way to prove the service departments are at fault.

Dig out the proper torque spec and tighten the axle nut to that specification.


Can I ask why? Looking for a technical, not anecdotal evidence. I'm talking about applications where the axle nut torque has no affect on the bearing pre-load. What exactly is affected in such a case?
 
look @ malibu forums, as MANY bearing failures are noted, starting as early as 30,xxx thou because OE is JUNK!!! Moog makes better suspension parts as do others. OE stuff is made to a low price point for higher profits!!! GM continues to use these junk hubs with crap bearings, one owner noted a warranty replacement @ 40 thou then another @ 75 thou that the stealer wacked him $500 for!!! the GM assembly is about a buck each + all 4 are the same on malibu's. many-most parts are Chinese but some are better, god bless america!!!
 
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