Grease / Anti-Seize - Replacing CV AXLE and would like to know best practice

[Trav]

So, is it actually inserting into the seal itself (because it seems like it would spread the seal too much?) or just acting as a guide to keep the shaft concentric to the seal?

Right, it goes in the seal, the part of the axle that rides on the seal is larger. I found this picture that shows what I am talking about. The axle on the right you can see the splines then the shaft then a raised area that the seal rides on.

 

[Trav]

So Yea' or Nay on the Anti-seize? I'm seeing about a 50/50 response from many.

Yea, it is cheap insurance. In the rust belt I have used it or loctite (acts like anti seize) on everything that is threaded except in plastic for over 50 years. It really pays in the long run.

 

[JGmazda]

I spent some time on another forum discussing this topic. Someone posted this video and it does make sense to me. Interesting.

 

[PontiacHO]

Some replacements from GM used to come prelubed with white lithium.

 

[D60]

I spent some time on another forum discussing this topic. Someone posted this video and it does make sense to me. Interesting.

Interesting. This is what @GMBoy said and was later shouted down by another poster as "not true"

 

[JGmazda]

Interesting. This is what @GMBoy said and was later shouted down by another poster as "not true"

Well that in itself is very interesting! I'm finding there is quite a division on this topic. Some say they would rather use anti-seize because of their past experiences with removing parts. Others have pointed to what was said in this video. I never knew this topic was so divisional. Hmmmm...

 

[D60]

Well that in itself is very interesting! I'm finding there is quite a division on this topic. Some say they would rather use anti-seize because of their past experiences with removing parts. Others have pointed to what was said in this video. I never knew this topic was so divisional. Hmmmm...

Meh, while the vid does say they recommend using nothing, I'm inferring that light use of a lubricant or anti-seize is fine.

Sounds like an old adage....hmmm... oh yes: Everything in moderation

 

[JGmazda]

Meh, while the vid does say they recommend using nothing, I'm inferring that light use of a lubricant or anti-seize is fine.

Sounds like an old adage....hmmm... oh yes: Everything in moderation

Funny you wrote that! That was what I was conveying in another thread related to this question. I viewed a mechanic on YT that dusted a light spray of copper anti-seize onto the bearing. I thought that was a good idea.... Overall, I'm glad we are on the same page.

 

[willbur]

Meh, while the vid does say they recommend using nothing, I'm inferring that light use of a lubricant or anti-seize is fine.

Sounds like an old adage....hmmm... oh yes: Everything in moderation

"except moderation" rest of the adage. LOL

 

[willbur]

Interesting. This is what @GMBoy said and was later shouted down by another poster as "not true"

I think the youtube guy means slathering half a can of AZ or grease on the CV. A very light coating is likely ok to aid removal, per Trav

 

[Trav]

Just a thin coat with a brush is all it takes, you don't lather the thing up.

 

[Astro14]

Appreciate all you responses Gentlemen! Thank you. Good info! I would agree it makes sense to use some form of anti-seize.

Noting that, The splines really do not slide "In & out" in normal operation. I could see using grease if this were the case. From what I've learned, Anti-seize is a grease with metal powder added. (Not to serve as a lubrication element, but to keep parts separated.)

The copper comes as a spray or a paste. Nickel is expensive. Another consideration is that Copper is not supposed to be good for aluminum.

Thoughts???

Thoughts??? Yeah…

A mechanic with 50+ years of experience gave you a recommendation.

Why are you overthinking it?

When @Trav makes a recommendation, you would do well to simply follow his advice. Sure, nickel is expensive compared with other anti-seize products, but you buy a $20 can that will last you for decades (like mine has) and the cost is amortized over dozens of jobs.

Spending a couple pennies more on the best product for your job seems like a wise investment.

 

[JGmazda]

Thoughts??? Yeah…

A mechanic with 50+ years of experience gave you a recommendation.

Why are you overthinking it?

When @Trav makes a recommendation, you would do well to simply follow his advice. Sure, nickel is expensive compared with other anti-seize products, but you buy a $20 can that will last you for decades (like mine has) and the cost is amortized over dozens of jobs.

Spending a couple pennies more on the best product for your job seems like a wise investment.

You made a good point. (50+ years! Allrighty then!! I'm open to that experience!)

I'm not a penny-pincher, just want to do the best thing... which is why I'm here. So yes...advice taken! Thank you!