2012 Nissan Maxima Suspension Overhaul

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Sep 16, 2010
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I'm replacing the entire suspension on my 2012 Nissan Maxima SV. I can get all these OEM parts from Nissan for @ $800-$900. Are there better parts out there with different brand name I should consider such as Sachs, Moog, Mevotech, etc etc. Moog has all this stuff but as I understand, Moog quality has significantly gone down hill when reading numerous blogs. I can replace Strut Assembly & Shock with Sachs for cheaper. What about Control Arms, Tie Rods, End links etc etc? Anything better or should I just stick with OEM.

2x Complete Rear Shock Absorbers

1x Front Complete Strut & Spring Assembly (Driver)

1x Front Complete Strut & Spring Assembly (Passenger)

1x Front Stabilizer / Sway Bar End Link (Passenger)

1x Front Stabilizer / Sway Bar End Link (Driver)

1x Rear Stabilizer / Sway Bar End Link (Passenger)

1x Rear Stabilizer / Sway Bar End Link (Driver)

1x Front Lower Control Arm w/Ball Joint (Passenger)

1x Front Lower Control Arm w/Ball Joint (Driver)

2x Front Inner Tie Rod End Links

1x Front Driver Side Outer Tie Rod End

1x Front Passenger Side Outer Tie Rod End
 
Front quick struts: Monroe
Rear struts: Mando
Sway bar links: Delphi, Sankei 555, or CTR
Control arms: Delphi
Tie Rods: Hitachi or CTR

Rock Auto doesn't sell CTR, but they are good parts. They're an OE supplier, and the parts are made in South Korea. Partsgeek has them for a fair price.

RA also doesn't sell 555, but again, Partsgeek does.

Napa carries both brands but at a much higher price :sneaky:

Unfortunately, CTR doesn't make control arms for your Maxima.
 
If you can get all of that for ~$900 as genuine OEM, I'd say that sounds pretty good. I've done a complete suspension refresh a couple of times in the past, although never on a Nissan vehicle. I like to stick with OEM for springs and bushings. For stuff like tie rod ends, I don't know if there would be much difference between OEM and Moog.

One thing I've learned; be sure to replace the bearings on strut towers. When those wear out it causes a lot of weird vibrations.
 
If you can get all of that for ~$900 as genuine OEM, I'd say that sounds pretty good. I've done a complete suspension refresh a couple of times in the past, although never on a Nissan vehicle. I like to stick with OEM for springs and bushings. For stuff like tie rod ends, I don't know if there would be much difference between OEM and Moog.

One thing I've learned; be sure to replace the bearings on strut towers. When those wear out it causes a lot of weird vibrations.
Agreed - for $900, OE for all.
 
One thing to watch out on the quick struts: Nissan's Value Advantage (aka Value Disadvantage) parts are not actual OEM Nissan parts at all, but rather cheap aftermarket parts reboxed :sneaky:

Monroe quick struts are likely better than NVA quick struts. Only buy them from the dealer if they really are genuine Nissan and NOT NVA!
 
Thanks everyone. Here is a partial list. They don't appear to be NVA. Will go with Sachs for rear shocks which are half the price of OEM and just as good. Definitely going with Hitachi for tie rods. Everything else oem.

E4C01-9DA0JNW
E4C00-9DA0JNW
54618-3JA0C
54668-3JA0C
56261-JA00A
56261-JA00B
54501-9N00B
54500-9N00B

What is a fair price for a mechanic to charge for installation of all this?
 
I've not heard bad things about Nissan Value Advantage for brake parts. Suspension I have no idea. Regardless, that is a good price for all of that for OEM.

In terms of install cost, that's a tough one. Most shops will have to charge more for labor with customer supplied parts. I'd expect another $800-900 for labor, alignment and incidentals.
 
What is a fair price for a mechanic to charge for installation of all this?
simplest way is to figure out book time x local hourly rate. Some public libraries have access to Alldata or Chilton’s(owned by Cengage) and there’s book time figures for flat-rate times.

I’m seeing 5.5 hours of labor based on warranty times for the LCAs + tie rods + shock assemblies up front. 1.2 hours for the rear shocks and sway bar links.
 
I've not heard bad things about Nissan Value Advantage for brake parts. Suspension I have no idea. Regardless, that is a good price for all of that for OEM.

In terms of install cost, that's a tough one. Most shops will have to charge more for labor with customer supplied parts. I'd expect another $800-900 for labor, alignment and incidentals.
NVA brakes get pretty squeaky when down to last 25% or so. Sort of like other cheap brands. Seem to stop fine otherwise
 
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NVA brakes get pretty squeaky when down to last 25% or so. Sort of like other cheap brands. Seem to stop fine otherwise
It also depends who makes the pads - friction edge codes are the key here. Safe to assume Nissan OE is from Akebono, Japan Friction(the former Hitachi Chemical and Showa Denso brake friction division) or Advics(Sumitomo Electric brake division) and NVA is either Wagner(Driv), Roulunds Friction India(MAT Holdings) or a Chinese supplier.

The Toyota TCMC service pads can be noisy vs. “warranty” pads but a neighbor has Indian-made brakes on her RAV4(O’Reilly BrakeBest Select) that are chatty.
 
I'm replacing the entire suspension on my 2012 Nissan Maxima SV.
I can get all these OEM parts from Nissan for @ $800-$900.
Good price.
Are there better parts out there with different brand name I should consider?
Anything better or should I just stick with OEM?

Honestly, it really depends on how much longer you are planning on keeping your car for.

If you're only keeping it in order to trade it in on a new car pretty soon, then whatever is cheapest is best.
If you're planning on doubling the mileage your car currently has, then OEM is the best.
 
I would guess the Hitachi are the OEM parts for the tie rod ends.

None of the pre-assembled struts packages will be as good as the OEM - but OEM will need to be assembled. If your going with pre-assembled KYB would be my choice.

Mevotech control arms - especially if they have a supreme model for your car, are very well liked in the Nissan Off-road world.
 
I just checked with the dealer. The E4C01-9DA0JNW Strut Assembly comes pre assembled. Sachs Rear Shocks & Hitachi Tie Rods are on the way from Rock Auto & Tire Rack. About to pull the trigger on OEM Dealer parts I listed above.

I've got 3 major projects in the pipeline in the next 2-4 weeks.

1. Brakes Overhaul: Power Stop K6075 Front and Rear Z23 Carbon Fiber Kit. Already have kit. Powerstop Calipers arrive today
2. Suspension Overhaul: Ordering parts now
3. Replace Coil Packs and Sparks with Hitachi Coil Packs & NGK Iridium's

Will probably do Brakes & Suspension at same time since I think they both require an alignment. Amazing how my tax return going poof like a puff of smoke into the air. Need to do it. Long overdue. Car rides like crap. Cool thing most likely won't need to do this again for quite some time. 89K miles on it now. Bought used.
 
I just checked with the dealer. The E4C01-9DA0JNW Strut Assembly comes pre assembled. Sachs Rear Shocks & Hitachi Tie Rods are on the way from Rock Auto & Tire Rack. About to pull the trigger on OEM Dealer parts I listed above.

I've got 3 major projects in the pipeline in the next 2-4 weeks.

1. Brakes Overhaul: Power Stop K6075 Front and Rear Z23 Carbon Fiber Kit. Already have kit. Powerstop Calipers arrive today
2. Suspension Overhaul: Ordering parts now
3. Replace Coil Packs and Sparks with Hitachi Coil Packs & NGK Iridium's

Will probably do Brakes & Suspension at same time since I think they both require an alignment. Amazing how my tax return going poof like a puff of smoke into the air. Need to do it. Long overdue. Car rides like crap. Cool thing most likely won't need to do this again for quite some time. 89K miles on it now. Bought used.

I didn't know you were getting brakes too :D
 
Car rides like crap. Cool thing most likely won't need to do this again for quite some time. 89K miles on it now. Bought used.
You’re wasting your time. Maximas from that era never rode well anyway. If anything, look into your tires.

Unless the struts or control arm bushings are leaking, the improvements from this work will be minimal at best.
 
Struts and Shocks are gone. Struts leaking. Rides like a hardtail mountain bike. I go over potholes and bumps and my teeth rattle. I used to own a 99 Maxima. Had a little over 400K miles on it before it just fell apart and died.....lol. I miss that car. I did an overhaul something similar to what I'm doing to 2012 when the 99 I think had 250K miles. Rode like a new car. I was shocked. I figured since I need new struts and shocks, why not replace more. The biggest expense really are the struts and control arms and of course labor. I tend to keep my cars until they fall apart. Good investment.
 
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