Garage Door Won't Go Down

[Gebo]

I have a Chamberlain 1/2 hp garage door opener. I have an intermittent problem in that it won't go down about 75% of the time. Now if I hold the button on the wall switch I can force it to go down. When it doesn't go down, it will do down about 1 to 3 feet and then stop and reverse. The warning light flashes. It acts like something has blocked the eye sensors but nothing is in the way. I tested the sensors and they are both on and
when I stick my hand between them the lights go out so I know they are working properly. Me being the OCD guy I am, I had another sensor and another wall unit. Replaced them just for kicks and it didn't help. I took off the actual panel box surrounding the limit switches to see if they were
working properly. When the door shuts and opens normally the limit switches open and shut like they should.

I took off this piece here looking for broken solder joints but couldn't find any. The one thing I did discover is the black 204C0137 box is hot as fire.
It will burn my fingers. It was completely rebuilt in 2018.

Any direction? Suggestions?

 

[samven]

This is probably not going to help but I had an intermittent problem with my door not going down but only in the afternoon. I went through many of the same troubleshooting procedures you have without any luck. Just by chance I happened to notice that the afternoon sun was shining directly into to sensor. If I shaded that sensor the door worked. I ended up clipping a piece of cardboard on top of the sensor that extended out about 3 inches and shaded the sensor without getting in the way of the beam. I have not had the problem since.

 

[Gebo]

Thanks for the advice. I'm thinking I gonna need a logic board.......

 

[gman2304]

Just by chance I happened to notice that the afternoon sun was shining directly into to sensor

I’ve noticed mine gets a little wonky occasionally at the change of seasons.

 

[supton]

204C0137 is a transformer. Either it's gone bad or something is heavily loading it down. I would disconnect all sensors and loads and see if it still gets hot, then hook one thing up at a time and monitor. I would not think a shorted sensor would do this, but who knows.

I don't know anything about this item but I am wondering if voltage to the controller is dropping during motor down, enough that a sensor is being read as being blocked. Low voltage can do odd things...

Nothing looks overheated in your pics (other than the varnish on the transformer), so either the load is elsewhere--or it's a bad transformer. The fact that it sorta works makes me think it's this transformer or the regulator right after it. Edit: look at the capacitor next to it, it looks suspiciously small for a buss cap, but I'm wondering if it's gone bad. Usually the expand a bit or leak their guts though.

 

[SHOZ]

The 22v is probably for the sensors, limit switches and push button.

 

[Gebo]

204C0137 is a transformer. Either it's gone bad or something is heavily loading it down. I would disconnect all sensors and loads and see if it still gets hot, then hook one thing up at a time and monitor. I would not think a shorted sensor would do this, but who knows.

I don't know anything about this item but I am wondering if voltage to the controller is dropping during motor down, enough that a sensor is being read as being blocked. Low voltage can do odd things...

Nothing looks overheated in your pics (other than the varnish on the transformer), so either the load is elsewhere--or it's a bad transformer. The fact that it sorta works makes me think it's this transformer or the regulator right after it. Edit: look at the capacitor next to it, it looks suspiciously small for a buss cap, but I'm wondering if it's gone bad. Usually the expand a bit or leak their guts though.

Sooooo...are you thinking replacing the logic board?

What color is the capacitor you are speaking of?

 

[supton]

Found this video, looks about the same, with a bad transformer:

Sooooo...are you thinking replacing the logic board?

What color is the capacitor you are speaking of?

Sounds like best bet.

Blue, the electrolytic right next to the transformer.

 

[2010Civic]

I'd just buy a new opener. They aren't that expensive. Plus you'll have 2 extra openers if you get another Chamberlain.

 

[Gebo]

Found this video, looks about the same, with a bad transformer:


Sounds like best bet.

Blue, the electrolytic right next to the transformer.

I found one in Texas and a few on eBay.

 

[Gebo]

I'd just buy a new opener. They aren't that expensive. Plus you'll have 2 extra openers if you get another Chamberlain.

Openers are fine. I’m thinking it’s something else.

 

[supton]

Openers are fine. I’m thinking it’s something else.

I think he means that you could get two more, so four of your cars can have door openers. Or you and 3 of your closest friends.

 

[Nukeman7]

I'd just buy a new opener. They aren't that expensive. Plus you'll have 2 extra openers if you get another Chamberlain.

^^^ This for certain. A new logic board is probably >$100 for that old unit. I highly recommend upgrading to an ultra-quiet belt drive Chamberlain unit with myQ WiFi capabilities built in. Here is the unit that I installed last year and I would gladly pay twice its cost to do it again.

Lowes Chamberlain Belt Drive GDO

 

[mk378]

Release the door from the opener to make sure it moves freely by hand. The opener usually has an overload feature that will stop if the door binds up.

 

[Gebo]

Release the door from the opener to make sure it moves freely by hand. The opener usually has an overload feature that will stop if the door binds up.

Not binding at all...

 

[Gebo]

^^^ This for certain. A new logic board is probably >$100 for that old unit. I highly recommend upgrading to an ultra-quiet belt drive Chamberlain unit with myQ WiFi capabilities built in. Here is the unit that I installed last year and I would gladly pay twice its cost to do it again.

Lowes Chamberlain Belt Drive GDO

Hmmmm. Logic board for my 2002 opener is a little less than $100 for a used one. You have a most excellent point.... 21 years probably is a good life for a garage door opener

 

[Dinoburner]

That transformer is fried, it happens and it will cause logic board issues. Check the input and output to the spec on the label. Another reason for erratic operation is week door springs causing changing loads on the lift mechanism.

 

[supton]

Hmm, the more I look at that, the more it looks like a regular 22V center tapped transformer. I had been thinking it had multiple windings, something lower for the micro, but maybe it has a buck, maybe just a straight linear and the controller is low power (it's not doing that much, after all). That pin the rectifier diodes goes to, is not matched on the other side--yes, it looks like a 2 layer board. But sometimes I think they keep unused pins on parts like this, helps with vibration resistance. That pin I bet is n/c and thus rather than route trace around it, they just went through it.

If it was me, I'd just root around in my pile of supplies and find a 24Vdc 1A supply. I try to keep one around, for all the 24Vdc relays that I don't have. Passed over a couple at the transfer station, thought of grabbing, then was reminded that I don't have a use for them... my luck, my Craftsman opener will do this same thing, next week.

 

[SC Maintenance]

I had a similar problem recently. I believe it was my belt drive jamming - overloading the motor.

Long version - I recently burnt out my garage door opener. It just smoked going down one day. Pulled it off and the start / run capacitors had smoked, figured it was just old or whatever, so I swapped the identical opener on the other stall over to that door since its the door my wife uses to park inside. Just the motor, not the belt drive. Well a month later it smoked - same way. Replaced it - new one was $150 bucks. When I took the old belt drive off I found a chunk out of one of the pulleys.

Only thing I can think of is the belt jammed and over-current the motor. I have had no issues since. The door itself always went up and down with no issues when disconnected from the opener.

 

[Nukeman7]

Hmmmm. Logic board for my 2002 opener is a little less than $100 for a used one. You have a most excellent point.... 21 years probably is a good life for a garage door opener

My previous Chamberlain chain drive unit was from 2005 and all the plastic pieces deteriorated from age, heat and vibration. The belt drive is 70% quieter than a chain drive, less messy, and just as durable. The myQ app feature is great, especially if you drive off and don't remember if you closed the door or if the kids lock themselves out of the house. The only drawback is your old transmitters won't be compatible with the new GDO.

If you opt to install a new Chamberlain GDO, avoid the top-of the line models that have the proximity sensor on the wall switch panel. The proximity sensor's circuit board will fail and cause the door to open and close randomly throughout the day/night. It is a well documented issue that I have experienced with GDOs installed at two different residences.