Someone like Molakule can come along and bust my chops if I'm out of line, but ... I understand that PAO and Ester oils have a hard time accepting the commercial add paks and require some petroleum as a carrier. Therefor, even what we would all agree is "full synthetic" is actually a sophisticated syn-blend
So you may not be getting 100% synthetics, even if the label says so. I'm not sure what the limit is on carrier content ... I do know that European Synthetics have stricter labeling constraints. So if you are looking for a "real" synthetic you may be looking at Red Line, Amsoil, Motul 300V, or another Euro product ...
As I understand it, even Mobil1 is now partly Group III or III+ ... Except maybe for AFE or one of the variants ...
Some folks tout synthetics as superior w/o defining what superior is ... I have never found a professional paper that shows that full synthetics actually lubricate better. If anyone knows of one, please point me there? I have been looking a long time. If it actually lubricated better, I might be interested. Have not seen that ...
I understand about better heat stability and even extended drain intervals. But that does not meet my definition of "superior". Although, when I used to build desert bike motors, I ran Motul 300V because I needed the heat stability. I needed an oil that would survive and lubricate. But for water cooled cars and trucks, that is not what I need.
I want superior lubrication. Near zero wear, even on cold starts (by Cali stds
), and fuel dilution handling (carbs/cams). I can get those properties in most good, well refined oils.
So far PAO's have not proved the price premium worth it - to me ... And the USA marketing just makes it more confusing. So I have to rely on personal knowledge, information from friends who race or build motors, etc.
BITOG is a good place to hash out issues, but MUCH is opinion and facts are hard to come by. Folks here do try and some info sneaks out into the daylight. But on average, it's marketing tripe repeated. EX: Chevron claims a percentage less wear with their new CK4 oils over their previous CJ4 oils (which were very good). But they fail to explain why and what factors have changed to get this improvement ...
So you may not be getting 100% synthetics, even if the label says so. I'm not sure what the limit is on carrier content ... I do know that European Synthetics have stricter labeling constraints. So if you are looking for a "real" synthetic you may be looking at Red Line, Amsoil, Motul 300V, or another Euro product ...
As I understand it, even Mobil1 is now partly Group III or III+ ... Except maybe for AFE or one of the variants ...
Some folks tout synthetics as superior w/o defining what superior is ... I have never found a professional paper that shows that full synthetics actually lubricate better. If anyone knows of one, please point me there? I have been looking a long time. If it actually lubricated better, I might be interested. Have not seen that ...
I understand about better heat stability and even extended drain intervals. But that does not meet my definition of "superior". Although, when I used to build desert bike motors, I ran Motul 300V because I needed the heat stability. I needed an oil that would survive and lubricate. But for water cooled cars and trucks, that is not what I need.
I want superior lubrication. Near zero wear, even on cold starts (by Cali stds
So far PAO's have not proved the price premium worth it - to me ... And the USA marketing just makes it more confusing. So I have to rely on personal knowledge, information from friends who race or build motors, etc.
BITOG is a good place to hash out issues, but MUCH is opinion and facts are hard to come by. Folks here do try and some info sneaks out into the daylight. But on average, it's marketing tripe repeated. EX: Chevron claims a percentage less wear with their new CK4 oils over their previous CJ4 oils (which were very good). But they fail to explain why and what factors have changed to get this improvement ...