Flesh wound on the oil pan or replace it on next OCI?
- Thread starter jayjr1105
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Originally Posted by jayjr1105
I've driven it about 200 Miles since the incident. No lights and engine is running well. I did order the pan, it was $90 and yes, they claim no gasket. I thought having a gasket would make it easier. Now I have to try and not make a mess with silicone. I assume the high temp orange RTV is sufficient?
I would use the Gray.
https://www.permatex.com/ten-common-gasketing-mistakes/
I've driven it about 200 Miles since the incident. No lights and engine is running well. I did order the pan, it was $90 and yes, they claim no gasket. I thought having a gasket would make it easier. Now I have to try and not make a mess with silicone. I assume the high temp orange RTV is sufficient?
I would use the Gray.
https://www.permatex.com/ten-common-gasketing-mistakes/
Originally Posted by BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted by jayjr1105
I've driven it about 200 Miles since the incident. No lights and engine is running well. I did order the pan, it was $90 and yes, they claim no gasket. I thought having a gasket would make it easier. Now I have to try and not make a mess with silicone. I assume the high temp orange RTV is sufficient?
I would use the Gray.
https://www.permatex.com/ten-common-gasketing-mistakes/
Thanks, I'll grab the gray if I can find it at walmart. Going in a few minutes. That guide is great. I had a good chuckle on the head gasket part.
Originally Posted by jayjr1105
I've driven it about 200 Miles since the incident. No lights and engine is running well. I did order the pan, it was $90 and yes, they claim no gasket. I thought having a gasket would make it easier. Now I have to try and not make a mess with silicone. I assume the high temp orange RTV is sufficient?
I would use the Gray.
https://www.permatex.com/ten-common-gasketing-mistakes/
Thanks, I'll grab the gray if I can find it at walmart. Going in a few minutes. That guide is great. I had a good chuckle on the head gasket part.
The Mazda RTV is grey FWIW.
Per Permatex website.....
"OEM specified. Permatex® Ultra silicones were developed to meet today's technology changes. Sensor-safe, low odor, noncorrosive. Outstanding oil resistance and joint movement tolerance. Eight times more flexible than cork/composite gaskets; three times more oil resistant than conventional silicones. Temperature range -65ºF to 500ºF (-54°C to 260°C) intermittent; resists auto and shop fluids and vibration."
Ultra Grey Suggested Applications: Valve covers, oil pans, automatic transmission pans, intake manifold end seals, timing covers, water pumps, thermostat housings.
"OEM specified. Permatex® Ultra silicones were developed to meet today's technology changes. Sensor-safe, low odor, noncorrosive. Outstanding oil resistance and joint movement tolerance. Eight times more flexible than cork/composite gaskets; three times more oil resistant than conventional silicones. Temperature range -65ºF to 500ºF (-54°C to 260°C) intermittent; resists auto and shop fluids and vibration."
Ultra Grey Suggested Applications: Valve covers, oil pans, automatic transmission pans, intake manifold end seals, timing covers, water pumps, thermostat housings.
As its not a difficult job I would probably change it and check the pick up tube and mounting carefully or just replace it for peace of mind.
I wimped out and returned the ultra grey to autozone and ordered the optimum black for half the price on amazon. Still 3.5 oz and apparently a step up from ultra black.
Now if I could figure out factory torque specs for my pan.
Now if I could figure out factory torque specs for my pan.
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Its going to be something super low like 10lb/ft. It doesn't take much, and if you're wanting to use a torque wrench to do it then you'll want a 1/4" wrench to do it.
Most people will very slightly tighten the pan, just to the point of the RTV making contact, let it sit for an hour, and then finish tightening.
Most people will very slightly tighten the pan, just to the point of the RTV making contact, let it sit for an hour, and then finish tightening.
Originally Posted by ctechbob
Its going to be something super low like 10lb/ft. It doesn't take much, and if you're wanting to use a torque wrench to do it then you'll want a 1/4" wrench to do it.
Most people will very slightly tighten the pan, just to the point of the RTV making contact, let it sit for an hour, and then finish tightening.
I feel like I read somewhere that 30ft lbs is the average for the oil pan bolts. I should probably call the dealer to find out for sure.
I'm going to follow the directions on the permatex site that someone posted above. Make my continuous bead, let it sit for 15 minutes, install on the engine only finger tight, let sit for an hour then torque to spec. I'll do this at night and fill the engine oil the next morning since you're supposed to let it sit for 24 hours before filling with fluid.
Its going to be something super low like 10lb/ft. It doesn't take much, and if you're wanting to use a torque wrench to do it then you'll want a 1/4" wrench to do it.
Most people will very slightly tighten the pan, just to the point of the RTV making contact, let it sit for an hour, and then finish tightening.
I feel like I read somewhere that 30ft lbs is the average for the oil pan bolts. I should probably call the dealer to find out for sure.
I'm going to follow the directions on the permatex site that someone posted above. Make my continuous bead, let it sit for 15 minutes, install on the engine only finger tight, let sit for an hour then torque to spec. I'll do this at night and fill the engine oil the next morning since you're supposed to let it sit for 24 hours before filling with fluid.
Which engine ?
FYI I obtained the 10,000 some page service manual for my car from a fellow reddit user. It's 71-97 inch lbs which translates to about 7-8 ft lbs. I have the parts/tools/info, now I just need the Wife to approve a few hours alone to get the job done
Remember my admin in our company had a low profile Mustang and we had a celebration in a park and she went over something it and ripped the oil pan.
Good to know you are safe.. crazy things happen on the freeways these days - as a policy never go behind a vehicle that is hitching or a truck with open cargo or an idiot hanging his bike with strings to the trunk. Never know when they fly right off and onto you!!
Good to know you are safe.. crazy things happen on the freeways these days - as a policy never go behind a vehicle that is hitching or a truck with open cargo or an idiot hanging his bike with strings to the trunk. Never know when they fly right off and onto you!!
Originally Posted by DavidJones
I'd use Permatex Ultra Black. It's about $5 a tube. This is a place where more is NOT better. Spread lightly......
No! Do not do this. RTV needs to be squirted out in a bead to ensure that it "squishes" evenly.
I'd use Permatex Ultra Black. It's about $5 a tube. This is a place where more is NOT better. Spread lightly......
No! Do not do this. RTV needs to be squirted out in a bead to ensure that it "squishes" evenly.
Originally Posted by jayjr1105
Yes, I know a 3-5mm bead, finger tight, wait an hour and torque to factory specs which is 6-8ft lbs.
I have only used the factory RTVs for Toyota, Honda and Nissan. The OEM service instructions have always specified installing and torquing to spec right away. There has never been a need to wait an hour before torquing, or to re-torque after an hour.
Yes, I know a 3-5mm bead, finger tight, wait an hour and torque to factory specs which is 6-8ft lbs.
I have only used the factory RTVs for Toyota, Honda and Nissan. The OEM service instructions have always specified installing and torquing to spec right away. There has never been a need to wait an hour before torquing, or to re-torque after an hour.
Originally Posted by The Critic
Originally Posted by jayjr1105
Yes, I know a 3-5mm bead, finger tight, wait an hour and torque to factory specs which is 6-8ft lbs.
I have only used the factory RTVs for Toyota, Honda and Nissan. The OEM service instructions have always specified installing and torquing to spec right away. There has never been a need to wait an hour before torquing, or to re-torque after an hour.
I did some digging and found someone on reddit that gave me the entire Mazda 3 2013 service manual (10,000+ pages). You are right, it says to tighten it pretty much right away...
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/04/full-82667-31774-screenshot_5.jpg "[Linked Image]")
Originally Posted by jayjr1105
Yes, I know a 3-5mm bead, finger tight, wait an hour and torque to factory specs which is 6-8ft lbs.
I have only used the factory RTVs for Toyota, Honda and Nissan. The OEM service instructions have always specified installing and torquing to spec right away. There has never been a need to wait an hour before torquing, or to re-torque after an hour.
I did some digging and found someone on reddit that gave me the entire Mazda 3 2013 service manual (10,000+ pages). You are right, it says to tighten it pretty much right away...
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Originally Posted by jayjr1105
Originally Posted by The Critic
Originally Posted by jayjr1105
Yes, I know a 3-5mm bead, finger tight, wait an hour and torque to factory specs which is 6-8ft lbs.
I have only used the factory RTVs for Toyota, Honda and Nissan. The OEM service instructions have always specified installing and torquing to spec right away. There has never been a need to wait an hour before torquing, or to re-torque after an hour.
I did some digging and found someone on reddit that gave me the entire Mazda 3 2013 service manual (10,000+ pages). You are right, it says to tighten it pretty much right away...
But the instructions assume you are using the factory RTV.
If you are using Permatex then you need to follow their instructions.
Originally Posted by The Critic
Originally Posted by jayjr1105
Yes, I know a 3-5mm bead, finger tight, wait an hour and torque to factory specs which is 6-8ft lbs.
I have only used the factory RTVs for Toyota, Honda and Nissan. The OEM service instructions have always specified installing and torquing to spec right away. There has never been a need to wait an hour before torquing, or to re-torque after an hour.
I did some digging and found someone on reddit that gave me the entire Mazda 3 2013 service manual (10,000+ pages). You are right, it says to tighten it pretty much right away...
But the instructions assume you are using the factory RTV.
If you are using Permatex then you need to follow their instructions.
Jay jr I would like to recommend the use of permatex Right Stuff. I really like this stuff and pretty much use it on everything except gasoline contacted parts. This was recommended to me by a gm tech about 3 years ago and I have been useing it on everything from Cushman 8hp motors to GM LSX plants with great success.
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