Repeat:
What kind of distributor
Second Q:
Does it have any kind of ignition box on it?
What kind of distributor
Second Q:
Does it have any kind of ignition box on it?
Set the dwell to 30 degrees first before setting the timing. Sometimes the mechanical/centrifical weights will hang in the full advanced position. You should be able to grab the rotor and twist it one way or the other and it spring back. Also the engine shouldn’t be idling faster than 700 RPMs in gear. Some times mechanical/centrifical advance begins to advance just off idle speeds.Not sure what brand
There is a small window with a screw..how do i know when it's 30degDwell is the time the points are open. It’s been a very long time, but IIRC it’s usually controlled by the points gap, on that style of cap you should be able to change it with the engine running using the Little door/window in the cap.
Are you sure it has points? No perttonix igniter or similar?
I’m confused by something’s:
You have 3 kinds of advance
Base or initial - what it’s set at at idle
Centrifugal - the distributor adds this by way of weights and springs.
Vacuum- added via the vacuum diagram on the distributor
Using the dial back light you should be looking at the TDC mark, with the TDC mark lined up the timing is whatever the dial is set to.
If there is no change in timing from idle to 4000 something is wrong with the centrifugal.
If I were doing this, I would do this:
Disconnect vac hose, plug any open ports on carb.
Raise and hold the rpm at 4000 or above. Use my dial back light set in 36 and turn the distributor until the tdc lined up with timing pointer, tighten distributor.
Return to idle, use dial back light to line up the tdc and pointer- record this number from the dial.
If there is no change between 4000 and idle the centrifugal is either broken or someone has locked it out - that’s a problem.
Actually there’s other stuff I’d do but that should get you started.
Ignore the vacuum advance until it’s running right. (And maybe forever)
Yes that's the only issue at hand and the starter connectors are loose but it won't tighten up for some reason. What causes the dieseling when it's shut off?Wow... You're going to love how much better the car runs once you get the ignition timing fully functional.
I would suggest an HEI conversion, but looking at how close it is to the firewall, it doesn't look like it would fit unfortunately. I am a fan of modern electronic ignition in legacy applications.Yes that's the only issue at hand and the starter connectors are loose but it won't tighten up for some reason. What causes the dieseling when it's shut off?
Yes it's so close to firewall and the capacitor that I couldn't turn it anymore that's why it's at 13I would suggest an HEI conversion, but looking at how close it is to the firewall, it doesn't look like it would fit unfortunately. I am a fan of modern electronic ignition in legacy applications.
13 base should be fine. What octane gas do you have in it?Yes it's so close to firewall and the capacitor that I couldn't turn it anymore that's why it's at 13
That's why it is running-on. 10 degrees was also probably stock base for 87. You can run 12-14 base with 91, which is what I'd recommend. I'd also take a peek at doing a Pertronix dizzy upgrade like the one I linked, the magnetic pickup is a lot better than points. They also have some nicer billet units, but I don't think you need that as it sounds like this mill is pretty mild.87 but it's almost empty. Think i will go with shell premium this tank. The carb needs a good cleaning it kinda nasty
You need a dwell/tach meter and if I remember correctly it requires an alan wrench. Before I purchase one I set many a points with a match book cover but you may need to be more precise.There is a small window with a screw..how do i know when it's 30deg
14-15 base is OK as long as you have 91 in the tank.So in your honest opinion..what's the highest advance that could be set and be functional or am I at the limit. The more advance I put the more vacuum I get. Right now it's like 15"