Calif smog test results failed finally passed but don't understand NOX emissions

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For the first time I had trouble passing California's bi-annual smog check. The results are in the table below.

This for a 1994 Buick Park Avenue Ultra GM's 3.8L Series 1 with a supercharger, but would apply to many vehicles.

First attempt failed because of a small leak in the EVAP system but told verbally vehicle passed the emissions portion that they do first. No charge and no paperwork so no readings.
Second attempt EVAP failed and emissions were not even tested
Third attempt EVAP passed after smoke testing and finding a signicant leak under car near rear passenger door. Failed emmissions because of high NOX at 25 mph 532 with 491 allowed. I could not find any issues so I changed air filter, spark plugs, oil, coolant & added Redline Water Wetter, tires to 35 psi. I was doing small things hoping for the 10% improvement that I needed.
Fourth attempt drove 50 miles on freeway to get fully up to temp. NOX increased signifcantly from 532 to 656 at 25 mph with 491 allowed and from 301 to 624 with 481 allowed. Instead of improvimg emissions they got significantly worse, especially the NOX. I assumed EGR valve failure or blocked passage way. I complete dissablemed the EGR system, bench tested, reinstalled smoke testing, and finally road testing. I found no issues and the command and position voltages using an Actron CP9185scanner were the same and responded as expected. One aspect that still concerns me is electrically disconnecting the EGR valve, and applying an 9 volt external voltage to pins A & E hear the valve click open and having tested this operation on the bench I expected the engine to stuble if not stall. There was no change. Had I not arleady bench verifed the EGR valve opening and closing with 9 V and clear passage way I would have been confident that one of these two ites was an issue. Being unable to find any reach for the RAPID increase in NOX is used a can of CRC Intake Valve clearned followed by a bottle of Redline's fuel injector clearner. I noticed no different in the engine's performance or any of the reading using the Acrtron CP9185scanner.
Fifth attempt I drove conservatively for 9 miles to get the coolant close to operating temperature and the engine block still as cool as possilble. Frankly, I was expected to fail and was pleasantly surprised that I passed.

At this point I am try to understand what the issue was and add that to my knowledge of things to check. My working theory is it was not the valve or fuel injector cleaners as these issues occur rapidly. I am leaning towards a combination of the relatively cool engine block and lower tire pressure. Engine block temp because it would have been the hotest for 4th attempt which had the highest NOX emissions and would also be a sudden change. The low tire pressure because in my mile of test driving, I think the EGR command was triggering at a higher speed than the smog test. by lowering the tire pressure, I was able to get the EGR command to trigger at a slightly slow speed.

Here is the table and I'm looking for suggestions on why my NOX increased so dramatically and quickly and what I did to lower the level to pass smog. So would be appreciative of links t o authority websites on the signifance of the smog results and what to do to lower emissions. So many of the sites are contradictory such as higher/lower octane. Most suggest fully warming a vehicle up and increasing tire pressure yet this is when I got my worst results and I passed with a cool engine block and intentially lower tire pressure.

DatemilageEVAPspeed|rpmEmissionsCO2O2HCCONO
9-Jan219849failedverbal passn/an/an/an/an/a
No issues located replaced a couple marginal hose connections
16-Jan219885failednot checked
Smoke test located a bad hose connector under body by rear passenger door
22-Jan219914passed15 | 1852passed15.060.3452/580.14/0.33301/481
passed25 | 1777failed15.300.2132/330.07/0.31532/481
No issues found changed air filter, spark plugs, oil, coolant & add Redline Water Wetter, tires to 35 psi, driven 50 miles on freeway to get fully up to temp
16-Feb220116passed15|1844failed15.000.2442/580.09/0.33624/481
passed25|1741failed15.000.2236/330.06/0.31656/481
EGR system disassembled, inspected & smoke tested, valve bench, road, and forced open, CRC Intake valve cleaner, Redline Fuel injector cleaner, tires to 22 psi, conservative 9 mile drive for operating temp but cool block
5-Mar220364passed15|1821passed15.010.3951/580.13/0.33335/481
passed25|1760passed15.100.333/330.08/0.31381/481
 
Not an expert, but something you did either reduced combustion temps or reduced the oxygen levels in the fuel air mixture. This could have been timing, air intake temps, egr function or maybe Saturn was in the 11th house that day.

I've been told that CARB has set the allowable limits so low that a lot of older vehicles would have had trouble passing when they where new.
 
Yeah, lowering the combustion temperature lowers NOX but raises CO....Glad you passed.
 
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For the first time I had trouble passing California's bi-annual smog check. The results are in the table below.

This for a 1994 Buick Park Avenue Ultra GM's 3.8L Series 1 with a supercharger, but would apply to many vehicles.

First attempt failed because of a small leak in the EVAP system but told verbally vehicle passed the emissions portion that they do first. No charge and no paperwork so no readings.
Second attempt EVAP failed and emissions were not even tested
Third attempt EVAP passed after smoke testing and finding a signicant leak under car near rear passenger door. Failed emmissions because of high NOX at 25 mph 532 with 491 allowed. I could not find any issues so I changed air filter, spark plugs, oil, coolant & added Redline Water Wetter, tires to 35 psi. I was doing small things hoping for the 10% improvement that I needed.
Fourth attempt drove 50 miles on freeway to get fully up to temp. NOX increased signifcantly from 532 to 656 at 25 mph with 491 allowed and from 301 to 624 with 481 allowed. Instead of improvimg emissions they got significantly worse, especially the NOX. I assumed EGR valve failure or blocked passage way. I complete dissablemed the EGR system, bench tested, reinstalled smoke testing, and finally road testing. I found no issues and the command and position voltages using an Actron CP9185scanner were the same and responded as expected. One aspect that still concerns me is electrically disconnecting the EGR valve, and applying an 9 volt external voltage to pins A & E hear the valve click open and having tested this operation on the bench I expected the engine to stuble if not stall. There was no change. Had I not arleady bench verifed the EGR valve opening and closing with 9 V and clear passage way I would have been confident that one of these two ites was an issue. Being unable to find any reach for the RAPID increase in NOX is used a can of CRC Intake Valve clearned followed by a bottle of Redline's fuel injector clearner. I noticed no different in the engine's performance or any of the reading using the Acrtron CP9185scanner.
Fifth attempt I drove conservatively for 9 miles to get the coolant close to operating temperature and the engine block still as cool as possilble. Frankly, I was expected to fail and was pleasantly surprised that I passed.

At this point I am try to understand what the issue was and add that to my knowledge of things to check. My working theory is it was not the valve or fuel injector cleaners as these issues occur rapidly. I am leaning towards a combination of the relatively cool engine block and lower tire pressure. Engine block temp because it would have been the hotest for 4th attempt which had the highest NOX emissions and would also be a sudden change. The low tire pressure because in my mile of test driving, I think the EGR command was triggering at a higher speed than the smog test. by lowering the tire pressure, I was able to get the EGR command to trigger at a slightly slow speed.

Here is the table and I'm looking for suggestions on why my NOX increased so dramatically and quickly and what I did to lower the level to pass smog. So would be appreciative of links t o authority websites on the signifance of the smog results and what to do to lower emissions. So many of the sites are contradictory such as higher/lower octane. Most suggest fully warming a vehicle up and increasing tire pressure yet this is when I got my worst results and I passed with a cool engine block and intentially lower tire pressure.

DatemilageEVAPspeed|rpmEmissionsCO2O2HCCONO
9-Jan219849failedverbal passn/an/an/an/an/a
No issues located replaced a couple marginal hose connections
16-Jan219885failednot checked
Smoke test located a bad hose connector under body by rear passenger door
22-Jan219914passed15 | 1852passed15.060.3452/580.14/0.33301/481
passed25 | 1777failed15.300.2132/330.07/0.31532/481
No issues found changed air filter, spark plugs, oil, coolant & add Redline Water Wetter, tires to 35 psi, driven 50 miles on freeway to get fully up to temp
16-Feb220116passed15|1844failed15.000.2442/580.09/0.33624/481
passed25|1741failed15.000.2236/330.06/0.31656/481
EGR system disassembled, inspected & smoke tested, valve bench, road, and forced open, CRC Intake valve cleaner, Redline Fuel injector cleaner, tires to 22 psi, conservative 9 mile drive for operating temp but cool block
5-Mar220364passed15|1821passed15.010.3951/580.13/0.33335/481
passed25|1760passed15.100.333/330.08/0.31381/481
From my emissions Inspector job. High nox usually means lean combustion. We had a guy come in with an old Toyota pickup truck that he said would fail every time. He said he always would put a bottle of B12 in the tank then fill with premium and it always passed.
 
So what happens if you remove the EGR valve entirely and idle it? You *should* get a notable exhaust noise and a lumpy, cammy, high idle from the vacuum leak.

I had a saturn with the same electric EGR system and used an old bike brake cable in a drill to roto-root the passages. Worked mint.
 
Not sure if it applies to your car but older Volvo' s from 80's to early 90's had an adjustable air mass meter. You had to used an analyzer stuck on the tail pipe and than you play w/ the screw while reading the Nox and Co levels. I did pay to have this done on my 760 Volvo that would pass the test.
 
So what happens if you remove the EGR valve entirely and idle it? You *should* get a notable exhaust noise and a lumpy, cammy, high idle from the vacuum leak.

I had a saturn with the same electric EGR system and used an old bike brake cable in a drill to roto-root the passages. Worked mint.
Intersting idea to remove the EGR valve creating what should be a signifcant vacuum leak. I did a smoke test with the EGR valve base plate intake tube and did get a significant amount of smoke flowing into the intake manifold. Enough that I concluded that the passage way way open and free flowing. Additionally, the plugging of the passage way in the intake manifold happens over time. remember I went from below 490 to 532 to 656 in just 250 miles.
 
Intersting idea to remove the EGR valve creating what should be a signifcant vacuum leak. I did a smoke test with the EGR valve base plate intake tube and did get a significant amount of smoke flowing into the intake manifold. Enough that I concluded that the passage way way open and free flowing. Additionally, the plugging of the passage way in the intake manifold happens over time. remember I went from below 490 to 532 to 656 in just 250 miles.
And the best thing is the simple act of running it without the valve is an opportunity for it to "blow its nose" and clear out what could have been a problem!
 
Excerpt from Toyota training slides:
Untitled_81.jpg

I would have attached the entire, very informative file but pdf attachments aren't allowed.
 
How old does a car have to be to not have to pass CARB emissions? Model T aged??
I think it is currently 1975 model years and newer require smog. It might be a moving 50 year old exemption. So next year becomes 1976 and newer.
 
Excerpt from Toyota training slides:
View attachment 207278
I would have attached the entire, very informative file but pdf attachments aren't allowed.
This list agrees with my understanding. In fact, I would add one or more partially block fuel inject. The challenge I am having checked and verified the cooling system and EGR system working correctly and the NOX actually increased significantly from 532 to 656 after I verifed these working. Smoke test eliminated vacuum leaks as a source of too much air. 300 miles of road testing and observing the car's performance via OBD II reader I verified spark advance, O2 Sensor response, and closed loop control.

This leaves Carbon build up and not enough fuel via partially blocked injector(s). That is why I used CRC's Valve cleaner and Redline's Fuel Injector cleaner. BUT I would be shocked if either of these was my issues because they take time to occur. In my case I went from some unknown level but below 491 of NOX to 532 in just 30 miles. Next is increased to 656 in just 202 miles. This is something sudden. During this time I noticed no change is car's performance.

Truly not believing I had successfully found the "issue" I deliberately under inflated the tires because this should increase the load and those the amount of EGR commanded at any given speed. I also got the vehicle to the smog station with a coolant temperature of 170 so it would get to operating temp as the test started. I wanted the block as cold as possilble allowing for minumium combustion chamber temperature.

Although I accomplished the short term goal of passing my smog to drive the vehicle again, I am pretty sure I have not found and addressed the issue that caused my NOX to likely double in 300 miles. In fact, there would not be much point in bi-annual testing if emission outputs did routinely double with so little driving.
 
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