Crank engine for lubrication

[Kira]

-5C. = +23F. That is warm in the world of pumping engine oil.
Drain down and time required to pump up is your concern.
If your startup had symptoms like clattering or prolonged oil light ON, you'd be thinking of oil pump condition or clogging/starvation.
You needn't concern yourself.
Using quality oil + filter + timely maintenance is what's needed.

My truck engine, a 4.0l SOHC V6 Ford vintage 2005, squealed briefly but harshly when started after a 48 hour nap.
The engine features oil charged timing chain tensioners.
I read about priming the oil system and trusted the feedback.
With a good battery, it took 8 seconds of cranking to kill the idiot light.
That was condemned as completely unnecessary by the fine people here. They suggested I was going to burn up my starter.
2-3 seconds is all the cranking I ever need to eliminate any startup noise.

Also, it's been my experience that ADB valves' work from 0% to 100%.

 

[JavierH19]

it's Altima 2.5L , oil 5w30 and it reaches -5c in the morning in winter

-5c is 23F, at that temperature 20w-50 is still pumping just fine. During the texas winter storm my truck started as if it were the summer but at 20f using thicker 15w-40. Could not tell a difference in starting time or sound, engine was quiet as always. I would not worry friend.

 

[JavierH19]

You are making a science project out of this.

?

 

[JavierH19]

There's plenty of oil left on bearing surfaces after 24 hours even in the cold to provide lubrication before pressure is achieved.

Oh i think you got the opposite of what i meant. I don't believe that the oil film disappears in a day, I believe that the film stays on there for a year or more. Sure the majority of it drains in no time but it never fully drains so a protective layer stays there. I guess a thicker oil that isn't too thick to pump easily could leave a slightly thicker layer on the surface without reducing oil delivery speed. This was discussed a while ago.

How long does an oil film stay on engine parts after shutdown

Does anyone have any idea how long a protective layer of oil stays on the engine parts after shutdown? I am not talking about enough oil for a lubed start. I am just talking about a thin film that would prevent rust from starting. This is on a car that is not driven much. I drive it ocassionaly...

bobistheoilguy.com

 

[Skippy722]

it's Altima 2.5L , oil 5w30 and it reaches -5c in the morning in winter

You’re totally fine not cranking it to build pressure. -5C/23F isn’t really that cold, heck even at -29C/-20F I wouldn’t bother, I just let it come down off high idle before moving.

 

[KrisZ]

Why are people worrying about oil flow?

 

[02zx9r rev2]

Why are people worrying about oil flow?

Because this is BITOG

 

[qais90]

-5C. = +23F. That is warm in the world of pumping engine oil.
Drain down and time required to pump up is your concern.
If your startup had symptoms like clattering or prolonged oil light ON, you'd be thinking of oil pump condition or clogging/starvation.
You needn't concern yourself.
Using quality oil + filter + timely maintenance is what's needed.

My truck engine, a 4.0l SOHC V6 Ford vintage 2005, squealed briefly but harshly when started after a 48 hour nap.
The engine features oil charged timing chain tensioners.
I read about priming the oil system and trusted the feedback.
With a good battery, it took 8 seconds of cranking to kill the idiot light.
That was condemned as completely unnecessary by the fine people here. They suggested I was going to burn up my starter.
2-3 seconds is all the cranking I ever need to eliminate any startup noise.

Also, it's been my experience that ADB valves' work from 0% to 100%.

Thank you very much

 

[qais90]

-5c is 23F, at that temperature 20w-50 is still pumping just fine. During the texas winter storm my truck started as if it were the summer but at 20f using thicker 15w-40. Could not tell a difference in starting time or sound, engine was quiet as always. I would not worry friend.

Thanks alot man

 

[Fish Fry]

My 41 Chevy sits in the Garage during winter because I avoid the salt.
Before I start it the first time in spring, I pull the dizzy and use a drill with an oil pump adapter (basically a big screw driver shaft) to spin the oil pump till I see oil coming out of the rockers and than some.

But on a daily driver, I can see no reason to worry about that, even if it sits for a month or two.

 

[tmorris1]

That is not true for all cars. Before doing that (which is a good tip) I'd be sure that your vehicle has that feature.

Probably true, but every fuel injected vehicle I have ever owned has had this feature so my bet is most have it. I would at least try this before pulling fuel pump fuses.

 

[Kira]

^^I was told ALL fuel injected vehicles have it and said so here.
I was immediately corrected (thank you) and tried it a few other cars and indeed not all have a "clear flooded engine" feature.
At least not the identical KEY ON...accelerator to floor...KEY START method.

I had the idea to keep track via a poll.

 

[MSCH]

Hello everyone,

I read somewhere a way build oil pressure in engine before engine starting to minimise cold start friction by disconnecting fuel pump relay and cranking the engine without starting it for few seconds,
Is that really beneficial in cold weather start??
Thanks in advance.

it might be beneficial in a truly cold climate but it sounds like a royal PITA too.
We mused to say any maintnence or pre trip stuff has to follow the 3 R's .
it has to be reliable, it has to be repeatable and it has to be realistic.

this pre start lube routine fails the realistic test.

 

[Trav]

Probably true, but every fuel injected vehicle I have ever owned has had this feature so my bet is most have it. I would at least try this before pulling fuel pump fuses.

Generally if it has a cable operated throttle body it will not work, it only works with ECM controlled electric throttle bodies.
There may be some exceptions but none that I have come across, with a cable throttle body foot to the floor it will start and rev its nuts off, not the best thing for a cold engine.

 

[KrisZ]

Because this is BITOG

Exactly my point, one would think people would be more educated about the subject given this is an oil forum.

 

[tmorris1]

Generally if it has a cable operated throttle body it will not work, it only works with ECM controlled electric throttle bodies.
There may be some exceptions but none that I have come across, with a cable throttle body foot to the floor it will start and rev its nuts off, not the best thing for a cold engine.

That is not true in my experience. They still have a throttle position sensor.

 

[Snagglefoot]

Here are the temps in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada vs Baghdad. Most folks in Edmonton are just fine with 5w30. May I suggest a 5w40 for your application.

 

[dumkid]

The only times I've cranked the engine with the fuel pump relay removed was after installing new lifters in my car, and after I got a car that had sat for 12 years. It took about 20 seconds of cranking for the idiot light to go out on my car after the lifters, rocker arms, oil filter and plug (I changed the oil when I did the lifters) and rocker tubes had been removed. So I was priming the whole oil system. Most starts the oil light goes out less than 1 second after the engine fires.

 

[qais90]

Here are the temps in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada vs Baghdad. Most folks in Edmonton are just fine with 5w30. May I suggest a 5w40 for your application.

View attachment 180264View attachment 180265

I did pour 5w40 once in a very hot summer once and replaced it after 10k kilometres without a drop of oil consumption