Is the Lisle socket similar to the Power Socket?
corded impact wrench
- Thread starter terry274
- Start date
If you are willing to spend up to $200, get this Earthquake XT battery impact kit from Harbor Freight on clearance for $180. It is rated for 1200 ft./lbs of torque.
Earthquake XT Impact Wrench
The key is using the Lisle weighted socket which is based upon pure physics [Force (N) = mass (kg) × acceleration (m/s²)]. I have a DeWalt XR 20v impact wrench rated for 600 ft./lbs. and have removed over a dozen Honda crankshaft bolts using it with the Lisle weighted socket. In 5 years, I haven't encountered any crank bolt it would not remove. With this combination, you won't need to use a crank pulley holder tool as the impact strikes are intense but momentary; thereby the crankshaft will not rotate.
Earthquake XT Impact Wrench
The key is using the Lisle weighted socket which is based upon pure physics [Force (N) = mass (kg) × acceleration (m/s²)]. I have a DeWalt XR 20v impact wrench rated for 600 ft./lbs. and have removed over a dozen Honda crankshaft bolts using it with the Lisle weighted socket. In 5 years, I haven't encountered any crank bolt it would not remove. With this combination, you won't need to use a crank pulley holder tool as the impact strikes are intense but momentary; thereby the crankshaft will not rotate.
If you are only going to do this job on a Honda motor once, you might want to also consider having a local indy shop loosen the bolt for you and just snuggle it up for the drive home. Years ago, I paid PepBoys $15 to do this on a 1997 Civic.
The other old school shadetree mechanic trick for a Honda J-35 V-6 is to use the starter and breaker bar braced against the frame/pavement to loosen the bolt. It doesn't work on 4 cyl. Hondas since the crank rotates counterclockwise but Honda V-6's rotate clockwise. If you try this method, be sure to follow all precautions to ensure the engine doesn't start and the breaker bar is secured. I have used this method successfully in my younger days; however, you must assume all risks for potential damage or injury.
The other old school shadetree mechanic trick for a Honda J-35 V-6 is to use the starter and breaker bar braced against the frame/pavement to loosen the bolt. It doesn't work on 4 cyl. Hondas since the crank rotates counterclockwise but Honda V-6's rotate clockwise. If you try this method, be sure to follow all precautions to ensure the engine doesn't start and the breaker bar is secured. I have used this method successfully in my younger days; however, you must assume all risks for potential damage or injury.
Yep, don't even bother regulating your compressor. Just run it full bore.
Not sure how it's anymore "dangerous" than anything else techs encounter in the shop on a daily basis. Wear proper PPE and don't be stupid......?????
Generally the theory is too much pressure is hard on the tools, but whatever.
Be sure to construct all air lines from PVC <------THAT IS CALLED HUMOR
Not sure how it's anymore "dangerous" than anything else techs encounter in the shop on a daily basis. Wear proper PPE and don't be stupid......?????
Generally the theory is too much pressure is hard on the tools, but whatever.
Be sure to construct all air lines from PVC <------THAT IS CALLED HUMOR
My 3/4 IR261 with 1/2in hose
You will need to use this type of crank pulley holding tool with a 1/2" breaker bar when removing the 19mm Honda crank pulley bolt with a socket, breaker bar and cheater pipe.
You are going to need the crank holder to tighten the bolt anyway so I would just buy that and not worry about an impact for a one time job. I can tell you my Ridgid cordless with an IR power socket wont take out a Honda crank bolt, generally have to dig out my old MG725 and use a power socket on it. I would be shocked if either of those impacts will pull that bolt.
Not a lot of space in there, I've done a couple of them.
Use a flex bar instead...if that doesn't work add a cheater pipe to it.
When you undo the side motor mount and tip the engine up to get the belt out and in, do not tip it too far.
A block of wood on a floor jack under the oil pan works well...just don't go crazy.
Use a flex bar instead...if that doesn't work add a cheater pipe to it.
When you undo the side motor mount and tip the engine up to get the belt out and in, do not tip it too far.
A block of wood on a floor jack under the oil pan works well...just don't go crazy.
Watch this starting at 6.55:
Love his channel, too bad about the tensioner. It’s more important these days to buy quality timing belt kits. Can’t trust gates anymore.
Yep, like has already been said, the electrics aren't going to touch that bolt. The cheapest way without buying a bunch of tools will for you to become comfortable with the starter bump method.
That or have a local garage get it loose.
I've used that holder before and you're going to need an extra set of hands. It is easy for it to slip and shatter the side out of the hex on the pulley, ask me how I know. **If you have this design pulley
**
Now, putting it back on, I've always used an impact. As long as you don't hammer away on it putting it back on, it will be fine. I think as soon as you start it, the Honda Pixies come out and magically spin the bolt back to half a million ft/lb anyways, so I've never been terribly concerned with them coming back off.
That or have a local garage get it loose.
I've used that holder before and you're going to need an extra set of hands. It is easy for it to slip and shatter the side out of the hex on the pulley, ask me how I know. **If you have this design pulley
**
Now, putting it back on, I've always used an impact. As long as you don't hammer away on it putting it back on, it will be fine. I think as soon as you start it, the Honda Pixies come out and magically spin the bolt back to half a million ft/lb anyways, so I've never been terribly concerned with them coming back off.
I’m not sure where I saw the video, but the heavier socket has more inertia than a regular impact and made all the difference using the same impact wrench.
Buy a good cordless impact and use it for rotations, suspension work etc…I have an old Craftsman 19.2 volt with the old NiCad batteries and it was gutless. But I bought Lithium battery and charger off of Amazon and it really made a difference. I even used the impact to drive huge lag screws into really wet 6x6s for a dock project.
A long breaker bar up against the cradle and bump the starter (no crank it) a couple of times will loosen it right up, you can put it back on with an impact without going through the x torque plus degrees fiasco, they never loosen on their own.
A good impact for the money is this one from HF, it has the same power as the larger one but is much smaller. It is made in Taiwan and is also sold under the Hazet and other brands. A 3/8 hose and Milton V fittings provide enough air, use a power socket.
I bought one for under $100 with a 25% coupon, it is impressive.
A good impact for the money is this one from HF, it has the same power as the larger one but is much smaller. It is made in Taiwan and is also sold under the Hazet and other brands. A 3/8 hose and Milton V fittings provide enough air, use a power socket.
I bought one for under $100 with a 25% coupon, it is impressive.
Yep. I recently had the timing belt replaced on my wife's Acura and decided to take it to the Honda dealer rather than take a chance on an aftermarket kit.
JHZR2
Staff member
Strange to me that one of these is rated at 1050 ftlb, while the other is only 300. Yet the power requirement looks like 1A different.
I bought a corded impact as my first. It was ok for lug bolts but was pretty weak. The battery operated units are far superior of course.
I’d give the old Craftsman air impact a try on something first. Verify its specs.
Definitely get the heavy wall socket too.
The corded Bauer from Harbor Freight made 610 ft.lbs of breakaway torque on the torque test channel. It made 568 or breakaway with a 50' extension cord. I only paid 60.00 which is the sale price for mine. If you want to see tests of all the various impact wrenches go here:
The cordless Ultra Torque Hercules impact wrench made it's 1200 ft lbs of breakaway torque. The Bauer referenced above advertises 1050 ft.lbs but only made about half that. Either way it is very powerful for the money and has a lot of good feedback from users.
The cordless Ultra Torque Hercules impact wrench made it's 1200 ft lbs of breakaway torque. The Bauer referenced above advertises 1050 ft.lbs but only made about half that. Either way it is very powerful for the money and has a lot of good feedback from users.
