Choosing between Mobil EP or plain ole Vanilla

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unoit

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Hi,
Trying to decide if EP is even needed for my situation. I have a 2017 Toyota Tundra, 5.7 engine. Driving 7000 to 8000 miles a year. Been using EP 0W-20. Want to start using 5W-30. Would plain ole vanilla Mobil be just fine? Or should I continue with EP? Many Thanks.
 
The 5.7 is pretty easy on oil and since you're only going for 8k miles, the vanilla will be good enough!
 
Regular is fine.

It's a good, better, best tier....

M1 - 10k miles
EP - 15k miles
AP - 20k miles
 
Originally Posted by unoit
Hi,
Trying to decide if EP is even needed for my situation. I have a 2017 Toyota Tundra, 5.7 engine. Driving 7000 to 8000 miles a year. Been using EP 0W-20. Want to start using 5W-30. Would plain ole vanilla Mobil be just fine? Or should I continue with EP? Many Thanks.

I would choose Mobil-1 0W30 AFE and run it yearly.
 
I don't believe in the M1 spin off flavors. I think vanilla M1 is fine for all applications. BTW: great choice on M1 5w-30 for yearly oil changes.
 
Originally Posted by unoit
Hi,
Trying to decide if EP is even needed for my situation. I have a 2017 Toyota Tundra, 5.7 engine. Driving 7000 to 8000 miles a year. Been using EP 0W-20. Want to start using 5W-30. Would plain ole vanilla Mobil be just fine? Or should I continue with EP? Many Thanks.


I can't speak for your Toyota but I ran "plain vanilla" Mobil 1 5W-30 in our 'tough on oil" 2.3 Ecoboost Explorer for 8,200 miles and the UOA came back real good, even with some fuel dilution. The TBN was 3.1, still useful life left in the oil. I'm not savvy enough to post a link to the UOA but I posted it this past October in the UOA section if you want to see it. I've done other runs, 6,200-7,000 miles with this Mobil 1 5W-30 and the UOA's have all been good despite some fuel dilution from this DI turbo engine and winter with auto starts to heat the vehicle.

Whimsey
 
Continue with EP. It's a better base oil and only costs a few dollars more.

Good slug of PAO real synthetic fluid in it. Will perform better all the way around.

It's served my Tacoma well over the last several years. Started using EP at around 75K. Used regular M1 before that. Truck now has 223K and uses no oil between changes.
 
Originally Posted by unoit
Hi,
Trying to decide if EP is even needed for my situation. I have a 2017 Toyota Tundra, 5.7 engine. Driving 7000 to 8000 miles a year. Been using EP 0W-20. Want to start using 5W-30. Would plain ole vanilla Mobil be just fine? Or should I continue with EP? Many Thanks.


Did you ever use the 2 years free maintenance?
Dealers should use Toyota 0W20 which is made by ExxonMobil but supposedly has more moly than the non-Toyota flavors ...

Curious if you noticed anything different when you switched oil?

As far as M1 EP, I use it in our Tuscon (GDI engine) and dump it at 7K miles. I may try a regular M1 and see how it does. Not a huge price diff.
In general, I'm afraid of keeping any oil longer than 7K +/-
 
Originally Posted by OilUzer


As far as M1 EP, I use it in our Tuscon (GDI engine) and dump it at 7K miles. I may try a regular M1 and see how it does. Not a huge price diff.
In general, I'm afraid of keeping any oil longer than 7K +/-


Why?

Is the four dollars extra per jug cost-prohibitive?

EP, the greater percentage of the base oil being a true GIV PAO, is a great bang for the buck, especially when you can utilize a rebate or find it otherwise on sale.

It's not just that it has a longer TBN. It's actually better oil as well.
 
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Much more PAO in the 0W20, versus the 5W30, which the OP wants to run.
I still think the best recommendation here is 0W30 AFE.


I've read in here that the M1 AFE 0W-30 oil is really good, too. I haven't tried it.

I should look up VOAs for it and EP and compare. I also wonder if there's a Noack volatility difference. I'd assume EP 10W-30 would be the best, followed by EP 5W-30, then 0W-30.
 
Isn't 'best' a relative question John. Some members here want PAO - some don't. Some only reach for Group III Natural Gas now.
Mobil-1 is the leader in handing out PAO in the mid-priced oil jug market. It's easy to find and lengthens the OCI, for sure.

I have a couple Vanilla jugs from the 2019 Rebate program and will buy a couple 5W30 EPs when the 2020 Rebate program kicks off around April. Less PAO in the 5w30s, but I really don't care with 5K OCIs in my two Korean models. I'm hoping GF-6 / SP are out by then.
 
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Isn't 'best' a relative question John. Some members here want PAO - some don't. Some only reach for Group III Natural Gas now.
Mobil-1 is the leader in handing out PAO in the mid-priced oil jug market. It's easy to find and lengthens the OCI, for sure.

I have a couple Vanilla jugs from the 2019 Rebate program and will buy a couple 5W30 EPs when the 2020 Rebate program kicks off around April. Less PAO in the 5w30s, but I really don't care with 5K OCIs in my two Korean models. I'm hoping GF-6 / SP are out by then.


Well, when I said "best", I was referring to the Noack volatility. I'd assume that the greater the PAO content, the more stable the oil. And the 10W-30, with a narrower spread between winter and hot ratings, should be less volatile.

And PAO is going to have better extreme temp performance, and keep an engine cleaner over time.

No doubt regular M1 is a very good oil. It's just that, in my opinion, EP is better in a few key ways. And the 4 bucks extra per jug is worth it to me.

Again, of course, my opinion.
 
I don't buy into Noack, sheer stable, TBN .....etc.. My OCIs are too short - thus engine kept relatively clean birth to death.
Happy New Year John and my 6th Sense tells me I know you from multiple gun boards.
Am I right?
 
Thank you all for your input. I am going to go 5W-30 EP for now. A few extra dollars to get the EP I feel is worth it as you pointed out. Many Thanks.
 
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