Chevron 10W-30 in 2001 Infiniti I30 at 5.5k (VQ30DE-K)

[razel]

2001 Infiniti I30 (Nissan V6 3.0L VQ30DE-K)

4.5 quarts of Chevron Supreme 10W-30 with 3oz Auto-RX using OEM filter
5,464 miles from 14.5K to 20K for 5 months with no extra oil added
Purolator air filter is 4.5K to 10K old
1st oil interval after full 4,500 mile Auto-RX treatment

BLACKSTONE COMMENTS:

Nissan makes very nice wearing engines, and the 3.0L in your Infiniti is no exception. Universal averages show typical wear metals for an oil from this type of engine after about 5,200 miles run on the oil. Your oil was run longer than that and we found all wear reading better than average and in the correct balance to show normal mechanical parts inside. This was 10W/30 engine oil with no gas or anti-freeze in it. The TBN was 1.8, getting marginal, but you could still add some miles to your oil change interval, if you wanted. Try 6000 miles next time.

1st column is current, 2nd is universal averages.

code:

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Aluminum 2 5

Chromium 1 2

Iron 8 14

Copper 5 5

Lead 5 10

Tin 2 1



Molybdenum 56 64

Nickel 0 0

Manganese 0 1

Silver 0 0

Titanium 0 0

Potassium 1 1



Boron 53 41

Silicon 14 15

Sodium 2 8



Calcium 1735 1952

Magnesium 4 357

Phosphorus 653 787

Zinc 894 926

Barium 0 0



VIS @ 210F 61.5 should be 59-68

Flashpoint 435F should be >356F

Fuel
Antifreeze 0

Water 0

Insolubles


TBN 1.8

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The car runs 45 well driven miles during the work day. 90% highway with cruise at 80 MP. . . ooops 65 MPH and 8 miles of traffic below 15 MPH. During traffic car is kept at a steady pace at RPMs below 2000K without leaving more than two car lengths ahead. Gas petal is floored for a few seconds about three times a week to enjoy the engine or to help keep drivers in their place who try to cut ahead after dangerously speeding and slaloming through the right lanes. Was worried that in the morning the car sees less than 2 miles and 2 minutes before it's on the freeway doing 80... I mean 65, but on it's way to 80... I mean 65 the RPM is kept below 3K. Regardless of the disregard for the speed limit and the defense of the left lanes as the faster lanes, my habits don't seem enough to put me be over the 'universal averages.'

Obtained the car and changed oil/oil filter/air filter at 9K. Was dealer maintained from previous owner. Did full Auto-RX treatment and plan to continue using maintenance dose and was interested getting an easy to remember 5K or 10K oil interval. Looks like dino at 5K is fine. Will try a easy to find a easy to obtain and decently priced synthetic oil around the $3 range and run a report on it at 7.5K after my next oil change. Thinking of the Supertech, Napa, or Mobil 1 ($4).

A good plan or does my oil report say otherwise that I should watch out for?

[ September 24, 2004, 12:05 AM: Message edited by: razel ]

 

[Palut]

quote:

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Originally posted by razel:

During traffic car is kept at a steady pace at RPMs below 2000K without leaving more than two car lengths ahead.

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I wish my car could handle revving to 2,000,000 rpms! Nissan must make great motors!

Just kidding. That is a fantastic report! I'd just keep doing what you're doing now, but moving to synthetic certainly wouldn't hurt. Of the oils you mentioned, Mobil 1 would be my first choice.

 

[jorton]

Chevron's base oil is SO good and your oil report is so good you should stay with it. I can see why you use 10w with your location and driving conditions.

Try 5w-30 or 10w-40 with analysis just for comparison.

 

[jorton]

Now I see the boron comes from the oil and not the auto-rx.

Supreme translates to Superior. What a value!

 

[Al]

Finally a Nissan engine that is easy on oil. Very low solubles and amazingly flashpoint for a dino oil. I doubt that Mobil 1 will be able to beat these results. And for another 2500 miles it may not be cost effective. This oil could have gone further easily.

I would try to find the source of the higher silicon level. Its not really bad-just on the upper end of normal. I suspect when the GF-4 oil comes out you will do even better.

 

[razel]

I was concerned about the silicon level too, since the Purolator air filter had the least amount of filtering surface area compared to FRAM and STP, but the air filter is relatively new at 4,500 miles and according to the 'universal averages' it's normal.

The air filter did get inspected, shaken, and any big debris removed once about halfway during this interval. Should the shaking be stopped?

My only interest for trying synthetic is to see any increase with fuel economy and for easy to remember 10k OCI. If this oil can go further, is it fairly safe to go 7.5k? If so, I might as well start using LubeControl and aim for 10k with dino instead.

 

[Al]

quote:

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Originally posted by razel:
The air filter did get inspected, shaken, and any big debris removed once about halfway during this interval. Should the shaking be stopped?

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I use the Purolator on my Nissan Sentra. What I do on my filter is take it out once or twice during its 15K life and vacuum the rippled side (inlet). I then vacuum the side of the filter box towards the engine. My silicon has been pretty low. Again I think the Purolator filter is fine.