Chassis braces

[RhondaHonda]

I had weld-in subframe connectors and they definitely tightened up my 1990 Mustang. I did not have a strut tower bar or add anything else at the same time.

 

[edyvw]

Thank you very much for your input!

My setup right know includes:

1. Yellow Konis front and rear.
2. 2 point adjustable sway bars front and rear. The front one is bolted to the stiffer setting, the rear one is set to soft.
3. Adjustable end links front and rear.
4. Reinforced main springs at the rear axle.
5. Front strut bar.

Right now if I insist pressing the gas pedal the car oversteers a little. It used to oversteer more, but I changed the setup to make it more neutral.

I'm afraid EvoX's bushings are not compatible. I can double check it, but I'm pretty sure about it.

What's your opinion about the difference between 80 ShA and 90 ShA regarding comfort and performance? And what's your opinion about 65 ShA about performance? As far as I know, it seems my only option for rear bushings is the 65 ShA ones.

If poly on Mitsubishi is easy to press out and in, go softest material first and see. You ventured into DIY enthusiasts territory and it is about trial and error. You won’t find answer online.
I think, if I remember correctly, higher number is softer. I would go 90 and see. If it feels right, good. If not, go next step stiffer. What you don’t want is other parts suffering from too stiff of a bushing, and then you end up driving car with suspension you want for few thousands miles, and then having loose parts until you change it. They are all interdependent. For example, on BMW if going poly in subframe, you must go at least M3 bushing in rear differential.

 

[inquirer]

If poly on Mitsubishi is easy to press out and in, go softest material first and see. You ventured into DIY enthusiasts territory and it is about trial and error. You won’t find answer online.
I think, if I remember correctly, higher number is softer. I would go 90 and see. If it feels right, good. If not, go next step stiffer. What you don’t want is other parts suffering from too stiff of a bushing, and then you end up driving car with suspension you want for few thousands miles, and then having loose parts until you change it. They are all interdependent. For example, on BMW if going poly in subframe, you must go at least M3 bushing in rear differential.

No, it's the other way around. A bigger number means a harder material.

60 - 65 ShA is about the hardness of the hardest rubber bushings. That's why I'm not sure if installing the 65 ShA poly bushings that are available for the rear of the car worth the hassle.

That's what Stronglflex says about that matter:

• RED color - hardness of about 80 ShA - suspension components have a hardness similar to the original metal-rubber bushes. However, strength of the polyurethane is many times greater, and the unique properties ensure long lasting comfort. Our RED products we recommend for all the "normal" car users who want improve stability and better driving.
• YELLOW color - hardness of about 90 ShA - recommended for racing-sports vehicles, tuned.. etc. The suspension is much stiffer, as at higher speeds is important. Durability ensures stability of polyurethane suspension for many years.

https://www.strongflex.eu/en/content/3-red-or-yellow

I think though that their statement: "hardness of about 80 ShA - suspension components have a hardness similar to the original metal-rubber bushes" is wrong. 80 ShA is harder than any rubber bushing.

 

[jims5600]

Different application than yours,but I installed strut tower braces on both a Camaro and
Mustang,helped each.. On the mustang installed a brace that connected both rear shock
tower together,that helped also

 

[inquirer]

Different application than yours,but I installed strut tower braces on both a Camaro and
Mustang,helped each.. On the mustang installed a brace that connected both rear shock
tower together,that helped also

I have first hand experience regarding the front strut tower bar. In my case it definitely made a noticeable difference.

I wonder how much of a difference a rear strut bar would make. The rear part of a front-engine FWD car is lighter, so I'm not sure if it will have the same impact as the front one.

 

[dumkid]

Keep in mind that most poly bushings are solid while most rubber bushings have holes in them, hardness of the material isn't everything

 

[inquirer]

Keep in mind that most poly bushings are solid while most rubber bushings have holes in them, hardness of the material isn't everything

Correct observation!

As far as I remember though, only the bigger bushing of the front arms is not totally solid among the Lancer's bushings.

 

[edyvw]

No, it's the other way around. A bigger number means a harder material.

60 - 65 ShA is about the hardness of the hardest rubber bushings. That's why I'm not sure if installing the 65 ShA poly bushings that are available for the rear of the car worth the hassle.

That's what Stronglflex says about that matter:



I think though that their statement: "hardness of about 80 ShA - suspension components have a hardness similar to the original metal-rubber bushes" is wrong. 80 ShA is harder than any rubber bushing.

I know on Euro 95A is softer than 75D. But, regardless, go softer first.

 

[edyvw]

Keep in mind that most poly bushings are solid while most rubber bushings have holes in them, hardness of the material isn't everything

A lot of bushings are hydraulic too. Going solid rubber could be improvement if executed right.

 

[inquirer]

I know on Euro 95A is softer than 75D. But, regardless, go softer first.

That's different scales! If you want to make a comparison between Shore A and Shore D have a look at this table.
When using the same scale, a bigger number indicates a harder material. That's true for both A and D scales.

 

[edyvw]

That's different scales! If you want to make a comparison between Shore A and Shore D have a look at this table.
When using the same scale, a bigger number indicates a harder material. That's true for both A and D scales.

Yeah, I didn’t go into details about that as usually I look what is offered for BMW.

 

[ls1mike]

They probably help more when installed on T-top cars, because inevitably their chassis is weaker without the 2 roof pillars.

Did you install the strut bar at the same time with the subframe connectors? If that's the case you can't be sure how much each part contributed to the change of the car's behavior and in what way.

Different times, each made a difference, but you have to remember the car is 440 hp to the wheels

 

[inquirer]

Different times, each made a difference, but you have to remember the car is 440 hp to the wheels

Yes, obviously the horsepower is relevant. Acquired speed is important too though, not only acceleration.