Suspension repairs question

[road_rascal]

So it looks like both of my front struts are at the point of replacing (Rav4 is 11 years old and has 168,200 miles on it) since they're leaking. I'm also going to replace the rear shocks while it's at the shop (nothing has been replaced yet- all original parts). With this many miles would it be wise to go ahead and replace all the ball joints, tie end rods and sway bar links too? I'd like to see how many miles I can get on it before it's completely worn out. It runs great, doesn't burn any oil that I can see, has just superficial undercarriage rust (nothing on the door seems) and I really like this car. Thoughts?

 

[slacktide_bitog]

If the sway bar links are rusty enough, you'll need new ones anyway, since you often have to cut them off the strut since the hex key in the middle strips

As for the ball joints and tie rod ends, not necessarily.

 

[eljefino]

I've seen Toyota ball joints go 300k+. Any replacement could easily be worse, plus you'll be on the hook for an alignment.

Agree with slacktide, you may need end links. Buy those on price, treat them as consumable.

 

[JMJNet]

You or the mechanic can test ball joint easily to see if it needs replacement or not.

 

[thastinger]

Yeah, fix it. It is paid for and likely done depreciating for you.

 

[stevejones]

Replace the struts, sway bar links, and lower control arms. The complete control arm will get the ball joints AND bushings. Use OEM parts, preferably. Have the outer tie rods inspected & go from there.

 

[supton]

Inspect and replace as necessary. But don’t replace unless necessary, aftermarket may not be as good, and who knows if it won’t die tomorrow.

LCA bushings should be checked, might have cracking. Then again, if not too bad, will it hurt to put off for another year or two and have aligned a second time then?

Pull the wheel liners. I am finding them to be excellent sand traps and superb at making rust.

 

[John105]

Inspect and replace as necessary. But don’t replace unless necessary, aftermarket may not be as good, and who knows if it won’t die tomorrow.

LCA bushings should be checked, might have cracking. Then again, if not too bad, will it hurt to put off for another year or two and have aligned a second time then?

Pull the wheel liners. I am finding them to be excellent sand traps and superb at making rust.

Cracking can be misleading. The Lexus dealer and forum as well recommended replacing the LCA bushings, based on age. So I got them and had an indie press the old out and new in. They advised me we’re not sure you’ll notice any difference as there is no play. Because forums know more than people who work on cars for a living, I asked that they proceed. No difference afterwards.

 

[supton]

Cracking can be misleading. The Lexus dealer and forum as well recommended replacing the LCA bushings, based on age. So I got them and had an indie press the old out and new in. They advised me we’re not sure you’ll notice any difference as there is no play. Because forums know more than people who work on cars for a living, I asked that they proceed. No difference afterwards.

Indeed--I wouldn't replace based on superficial cracking, but they do wear. Again, good time to inspect.

And forums sometimes do know more than the dealer. When I had a VW TDi the dealership was not up to date on its oil requirements. But that might be a corner case, as the forum I was on did have a few mechanics and more than a few who were keeping up to date on the car's requirements.

 

[nobb]

How would the OP test for play on the existing joints to see if they require replacements? It's not always that straightforward by feel because it could vary alot. A brand new joint could be very difficult to move freely by hand, but a used joint after 100K would feel much looser but likely still be within spec.

 

[Asterix]

It's easy to test lower ball joints. Jack up the front so the tires are a few inches above the floor. Put a strong bar under the tire and try to pry the tire upwards. A broom handle is not strong enough. A steel digging bar is ideal. Watch and feel for movement. If there's any play in the ball joint, replace it.

This assumes the front spring mounts on the lower arm, which is true for most cars.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

It's easy to test lower ball joints. Jack up the front so the tires are a few inches above the floor. Put a strong bar under the tire and try to pry the tire upwards. A broom handle is not strong enough. A steel digging bar is ideal. Watch and feel for movement. If there's any play in the ball joint, replace it.

This assumes the front spring mounts on the lower arm, which is true for most cars.

If the spring mounts on the lower arm, you must jack it up under the lower arm.
In the OP's case, with a strut mounted to the steering knuckle, jacking under the frame in good.

 

[GMBoy]

I've seen Toyota ball joints go 300k+. Any replacement could easily be worse, plus you'll be on the hook for an alignment.

Agree with slacktide, you may need end links. Buy those on price, treat them as consumable.

That is the absolute truth with aftermarket parts quality being so spotty.

 

[SeaJay]

I have never been one to fix a lot of things that ain't broke.

 

[The Critic]

I've seen Toyota ball joints go 300k+. Any replacement could easily be worse, plus you'll be on the hook for an alignment.

Agree with slacktide, you may need end links. Buy those on price, treat them as consumable.

This.

Though, the answer is different for a MN car than for a CA car.

 

[road_rascal]

Had the new front struts and rear shocks installed yesterday along with new front and rear sway bar links along with an alignment. Shocks and struts are KYB Excel-G's. The ball joints and tie rod ends were still in good shape. Driving home from work it feels like I'm driving a new car.

 

[messedJ]

Replace the struts, sway bar links, and lower control arms. The complete control arm will get the ball joints AND bushings. Use OEM parts, preferably. Have the outer tie rods inspected & go from there.

We may deal with the suspension replacement on this 179k miles RAV4 project. The owner already ordered a set of tires and brake pads from 4Wheelonline. Bushings and tie rods will be added to the list to check.