I have a 2007 Pacifica that has severe negative rear camber. One side is roughly -1.3*, the other side -2.1*, way out of spec. I believe these issues begin after some suspension work.
The OEM load leveling shocks (expensive Nivomats) were worn creating a bouncier than usual ride in the rear. When I pulled them out, at least one of them had completely failed. I went to the salvage yard and got two used ones that passed the "push it against the ground test"-- which with Nivomats means you nearly cannot push them in at all. I also picked up replacement springs from this low mile vehicle at the yard.
I followed the factory replacement instructions: drop the rear subframe (do one side at a time) just enough to slip the springs/shocks out. Replacement was cake and ride quality was restored. I believe but am not certain that this is when the negative camber issues began. I replaced nearly all the front suspension components at this time: struts, strut mounts, lower control arms, sway bar end links, tie rod ends, the whole enchilada so I would only need an alignment once. Roughed in the front alignment myself with hand tools.
Took it to an alignment shop and front needed small adjustments but the rear camber was way out-- which I already knew by looking at it and assumed was adjustable. They tell me it's not adjustable and suggested some "camber bushings" which are installed in one of the 5-link suspension components. I then suspected the used rear spring/shocks might be at fault, so bought new ones. Still the negative camber persists. One just has to stand behind the car and you can see it.
I want to know a) what caused the rear camber alignment to go so far out of whack AND b) how to fix it without using a bandaid like one of those camber bushings which are eccentric and simply spun to the desired camber adjustment. Or perhaps that isn't a bandaid?
Only thing I can think of is suspension bushings are bad creating some play/sloppiness, but they really don't look that way. Some age cracking, but no slop, rust or anything major. I can get all 5 new MOOG suspension links (control arm, 4 other torsion, this and that bar) with new bushings for about $400 shipped, both sides. Replacing all of them would require dropping the subframe and a complete rear end disassembly, which I'd like to avoid-- and not sure it would fix the issue anyway.
Is the camber bushing the way to go on this, and why? I find many threads on Chrysler Forums from folks complaining about rear negative camber on these cars, but have yet to see a solution or cause.
The OEM load leveling shocks (expensive Nivomats) were worn creating a bouncier than usual ride in the rear. When I pulled them out, at least one of them had completely failed. I went to the salvage yard and got two used ones that passed the "push it against the ground test"-- which with Nivomats means you nearly cannot push them in at all. I also picked up replacement springs from this low mile vehicle at the yard.
I followed the factory replacement instructions: drop the rear subframe (do one side at a time) just enough to slip the springs/shocks out. Replacement was cake and ride quality was restored. I believe but am not certain that this is when the negative camber issues began. I replaced nearly all the front suspension components at this time: struts, strut mounts, lower control arms, sway bar end links, tie rod ends, the whole enchilada so I would only need an alignment once. Roughed in the front alignment myself with hand tools.
Took it to an alignment shop and front needed small adjustments but the rear camber was way out-- which I already knew by looking at it and assumed was adjustable. They tell me it's not adjustable and suggested some "camber bushings" which are installed in one of the 5-link suspension components. I then suspected the used rear spring/shocks might be at fault, so bought new ones. Still the negative camber persists. One just has to stand behind the car and you can see it.
I want to know a) what caused the rear camber alignment to go so far out of whack AND b) how to fix it without using a bandaid like one of those camber bushings which are eccentric and simply spun to the desired camber adjustment. Or perhaps that isn't a bandaid?
Only thing I can think of is suspension bushings are bad creating some play/sloppiness, but they really don't look that way. Some age cracking, but no slop, rust or anything major. I can get all 5 new MOOG suspension links (control arm, 4 other torsion, this and that bar) with new bushings for about $400 shipped, both sides. Replacing all of them would require dropping the subframe and a complete rear end disassembly, which I'd like to avoid-- and not sure it would fix the issue anyway.
Is the camber bushing the way to go on this, and why? I find many threads on Chrysler Forums from folks complaining about rear negative camber on these cars, but have yet to see a solution or cause.
