Same experience with pro select. Tried it last summer because it was cheap.I’ve used 30HD and this from Lowe’s.
The 30HD gummed up and collected so much debris that it would cause the saw to bog.
Same experience with pro select. Tried it last summer because it was cheap.I’ve used 30HD and this from Lowe’s.
The 30HD gummed up and collected so much debris that it would cause the saw to bog.
I have had sap filled wood create that issue regardless of what chain oil I’m using. Fortunately I don’t have any pines on my place now.Same experience with pro select. Tried it last summer because it was cheap.
I was thinking of the same thing.Has anyone made a chain saw with an oil passage out to the end of the bar? You want the oil to go on right before the chain reaches where all the wear occurs on the underside of the bar. The standard design applies oil as the chain leaves the top of the powerhead and counts on it not being flung off before reaching the cutting zone.
Yes the bar gets hot and is moving along a good speed. Seems like it would activate AW addtives.As always, I question the Project Farm testing methodology. While it looks good, there are always variables. When the video showed "no appreciable chain stretch" on the Oregon lube segment, the chain was obviously very loose. This makes one wonder if he maintained equal chain tension (on new, stretchy chains no less) throughout the test. Unequal chain tension is probably the biggest variable that would affect much of the meaningful data.
Other questions: does anti wear additives designed for internal engine points of wear correlate with chainsaw bar/chain points of wear? Does the extreme pressure test rig correlate with chainsaw bar/chain wear? Stihl has a thinner winter grade bar oil that was not tested.
The smoke? I don't recall my bars and chains ever smoking like in the videos. Was his test not in line with real world use? Were the chains tensioned too tight?
Then, one has to ask if the Tractor Supply Harvest King oil is consistent from year to year or do they use the cheapest bid every time? I'm just not convinced. With over 4 decades of semi-professional chainsaw use and various dedicated bar oils, I don't recollect the bars or chains wearing out excessively before the teeth were filed down to point of no use. In the end, use what makes you happy and don't over think it.
If I'm cutting dried hard woods I try to make most of the cuts on the top of the bar.Has anyone made a chain saw with an oil passage out to the end of the bar? You want the oil to go on right before the chain reaches where all the wear occurs on the underside of the bar. The standard design applies oil as the chain leaves the top of the powerhead and counts on it not being flung off before reaching the cutting zone.
I run carbide chains till they break twice.Why bother, chains get replaced all the time. The oil honestly won't make it last longer.
Same.The tacky factor isn't just to assist with lubing the chain, although it might help slightly. You don't want it slinging everywhere and making a huge mess. I will actually refuse to work on saws where the owner runs used motor oil or gear oil through their saw. The entire saw is usually caked in oily mess, and I'd have to spend hours cleaning it before I could even get to repairing it. Not to mention the oil slings off onto the ground, onto your clothes, into wetlands, etc.
Yeah it's crazy to me people will cheap out on bar oil on an expensive power tool like a chainsaw. Like I stated before I just refuse to work on those saws, because most of those people don't want to pay for my time to clean the nasty crap off the saw before I can work on it, and usually want it fixed for free.Same.
Most of the saws that came in with lubing problems were from people running old engine oil or whatever garbage they had laying around... probably complete with dead bugs, leaves, etc.
End up plugging the pump or lines, often killing it.
Saw many blown engines from a combo of dull chains and not using bar oil. Ton of revs trying to cut, slinging oil everywhere. That oil gets into the cooling fan, fins, carb... pretty much everywhere. Clogs up airflow, saw overheats, and the basically minimal load WOT trying to "cut" doesn't help either.
On my processor the hydraulic oil does make a bit of mess, but the engine isn't sucking in much of it.
We did away with the time wasters by charging a minimum of 1/2hr labor on anything that came in.Yeah it's crazy to me people will cheap out on bar oil on an expensive power tool like a chainsaw. Like I stated before I just refuse to work on those saws, because most of those people don't want to pay for my time to clean the nasty crap off the saw before I can work on it, and usually want it fixed for free.
Not if you sharpen by hand, and don't cut dirt and rocks to often. I've only really bought faster chains, to replace the original ones and they seem to go for a long long time. Like a couple dozen of cord of clean hardwood?Why bother, chains get replaced all the time. The oil honestly won't make it last longer.