Can't Complete Oil Change: Terrible Oil Filter Design

[ZebRuaj]

I've had shops crank those caps on. Cracked one on a Rav4 on removal trying to help a friend out.

Make sure your tool has the flutes cut down the side to fit onto the exposed teeth on the cap, and not the cheaper ones that just fit barely over the top.

I also upgraded to the OEM aluminum filter housing over the plastic one on my personal vehicle after breaking one doing the oil change for a friend.

 

[The Critic]

That oil change is easy, but you need to get the oil filter cap which uses a 24mm socket and also has the cut-outs for the teeth. Then you need a very very long breaker bar to crack it loose because most people way overtighten the canister.

 

[Delta]

Originally Posted by anndel
I have this

Glad somebody posted this. This is the same one I have for the Camry and is an incredibly well built tool. You can use a 3/8 ratchet or put a 27mm (I think) socket with breaker bar on it to remove a real tight one. Had the same issue when I ran out of free dealer oil changes and started doing them myself. Thing was on incredibly tight.

 

[JMJNet]

This is the original tool design for Toyota's cartridge housing.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015PK3AG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The MotivX tool looks good also.

 

[y_p_w]

Flotool used to sell that style with a 3/8" square fitting as well as a 1" hex fitting to use a 1" wrench.

However, there shouldn't be any problem using a 3/8" socket wrench or breaker bar provided the tool can withstand that kind of use.

Lisle has a couple of the 65 mm 14 flute caps designed for Toyota filter housings. And for those asking, no it's not something that one can simply attach a strap wrench or jam a screwdriver into an oil filter.

This is the cheaper one that Lisle sells. It has two heavy welds to attach the cup to the base, with only a 3/8" square fitting.

https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/65mm-14-flute-end-cap-filter-wrench-for-toyota

They also have a heavier duty one made of forged metal (aluminum?) that I suppose is targeted for professionals.

https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/61040-65mm-14-flute-end-cap-wrench-for-toyota

 

[CrackyWainwright]

Originally Posted by anndel
I have this

Very good. I need that tool too. Thanks for the link.

 

[Gokhan]

My favorite. I had it for two decades and it never failed either with spin-on or cartridge filters. Super-clever design with that thick metal piece embedded in hard plastic.

It fits tight though. When the oil filter or housing cap gets stuck in it, I hold the filter or cap and tap the cap wrench on the floor, which frees it.

 

[barryh]

Morons that over torque things is no good reason to berate cartridge filters in general.

I thought the cartridge filter design on my car was a huge step forward as it allows me to change the oil without spilling a drop. Something that couldn't be done with a spin on filter. I've no idea what the correct torque is but it's obvious that sealing is achieved by O rings sliding in the housing which means it only needs to be hand tight.

 

[Gokhan]

Amazon has a very good one for half the price:

https://www.amazon.com/Filter-Wrench-Toyota-Tundra-Highlander/dp/B07JG83SQR/ref=asc_df_B07JG83SQR/

Napa is selling decent ones, too, perhaps including even the one I have or one very similar to it.

 

[Rand]

Originally Posted by barryh
Morons that over torque things is no good reason to berate cartridge filters in general.

I thought the cartridge filter design on my car was a huge step forward as it allows me to change the oil without spilling a drop. Something that couldn't be done with a spin on filter. I've no idea what the correct torque is but it's obvious that sealing is achieved by O rings sliding in the housing which means it only needs to be hand tight.


Right I went from the pentastar cartridge (3.2L) to the spin on filter on the 2.0T, I guess its back to collecting 2 liter bottle and sawing it in half

put it up over the filter and voila.. no drips/spills.

The nice thing about the spin-on filter is less worrying about people messing it up. The early pentastar filter housing was easy to break.. and a not trivial job to replace.

What I did for that was put a Line on the housing/lid so you could match them up when putting it back together.

 

[toneydoc]

Toyota makes a tool for removal of the hard plastic cap
It has a 6 sided nut type end on the cap for a socket instead of a hole in it
It is a little pricey but I bought it and it works well
Go to the dealer and look at it or look at it online

Oh and by the way, you will have to use more force than you are accustomed to using
while removing the canister
And be sure to pay close attention to the new round ring placement when you change them

 

[2004tdigls]

take some making tape and wrap it around the top of the filter housing, this will ensure the tool doesn't slip

I have the same problem with my tdi

 

[atikovi]

Originally Posted by CrackyWainwright
I'm glad Scotty Kilmer also can't make sense of why Toyota uses this weird system when a can filter has worked so well for us for decades.


Cheaper (theoretically) to replace just the paper filter media than the whole metal can. Also environmentally better as less oil trapped in the filter when it's tossed.

 

[blupupher]

Hmm, I think if I had one of these vehicles I would get the metal filter cap as well as a good removal tool.

I don't understand why Toyota puts these on the underside of the vehicle.
One of the advantages of cartridge is less mess.
With this design, seems to be more of a hassle to remove filter drain bolt, let it drain, then remove filter housing, with oil still probably inside to make a bit of a mess with.
Topside caps make no mess at all, and no extra drain bolt to mess with.

 

[Maddog1337]

I used to use the cup style wrenches as well, but after encountering some stubborn ones I only use Channellock 2012s. Beyond a space limitation, you will not struggle with these:

 

[Gokhan]

Originally Posted by Maddog1337
I used to use the cup style wrenches as well, but after encountering some stubborn ones I only use Channellock 2012s. Beyond a space limitation, you will not struggle with these:

Clamp-style wrenches cannot be used with cartridge-style oil filters. They will immediately destroy the housing cap.

 

[slo town]

I like that Lyle tool. It fits the flutes and grabs the tabs both.

FWIW, I think cartridge filters are superior to spin ones. Cartridge filter elements are larger and you can see the media without having to do a C&P.

Scott

 

[CR94]

It's not a "terrible" design. Your problem is the cretin who grossly overtightened the filter cap. It does not need to be as tight as a spin-on does to avoid leaks. Don't try drastic methods on an overtightened cap unless you have a spare cap on hand, in case you have to break the original.

A cheap (~$4) stamped-steel Steelman brand tool works just fine for me. It might not on a stupid-tight cap.

 

[JeffKeryk]

I believe the torque spec is 18 pound feet.
I have dealt with some pretty tight ones. Kinda stupid...

 

[RayCJ]

I hope the OP is aware that there's a small band-steel retaining clip that needs to be pushed out of the way while loosening the cartridge cap. There are plastic notches on the cap and when it's tightened, the strip of band steel presses up against the one of the notches to (presumably) prevent the cap from unscrewing from vibration.

Put the filter cap wrench on the cap, use a screwdriver to momentarily pry the band-steel spring out of the way and then, unscrew the wrench. As the cap unscrews after a couple turns, the band steel will no longer be in proximity of the plastic tabs on the cap. -And yes, I agree, it seems totally unnecessary.

I found this out the hard way (just like are) on my son's Corolla.

Ray