Can more oil=longer drain intervals

Status
Not open for further replies.
I think I would be conservative and change to M-1 EP. At 7500 I would do a UOA with Blackstone. Based on the results,I would adjust my next OCI. IMO, I think a 10,000 OCI with the EP oil will be easily obtainable, and possibly more.
 
9.1 quarts doesn't have to work near as hard as 4.1 quarts. Engine oil is in a closed loop system; similar to cars making laps on a race track. So if you take one single molecule out of 9.1 quarts of oil, that one molecule doesn't have to make as many laps around the track as a molecule working in 4.1 quarts of oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
9.1 quarts doesn't have to work near as hard as 4.1 quarts. Engine oil is in a closed loop system; similar to cars making laps on a race track. So if you take one single molecule out of 9.1 quarts of oil, that one molecule doesn't have to make as many laps around the track as a molecule working in 4.1 quarts of oil.


Interesting...makes sense.
 
Originally Posted By: silvercivicsi
My grandmother has an LS430 that I do the oil changes on. I stick to div>


Ok question for you, are you using the Toyota Synthetic 0w20 in it?

I usually don't care what brand of oil I use, but the guys over at club lexus swear by it, so I'm going to give it a try. And I usually would never consider doing an extended drain, but everyone (at least on the internet) keeps telling me I can easily do it. This is somewhat new to me (looking up different brands of oil, etc), I'm a guy who used to put whatever I could find in my honda Accord. I've put 5w30, 10w30, diesel oil, synthetic, conventional...sometimes all of it at the same time. And for most of it's life it ran on Super Tech or bulk oil. It has 282k miles on it and it still runs pretty well.
 
There are some drawbacks to large sumps, too. For example, larger amount of oil takes longer to warm up, reach operating temp, and evaporate moisture and fuel. So, for cars that are short tripped, this may actually be less than ideal.

Granted, one would hope that the manufacturer designed the large sump in such a way as to still allow for the oil to warm up fairly quickly.
 
Originally Posted By: doublebase

Ok question for you, are you using the Toyota Synthetic 0w20 in it?

I usually don't care what brand of oil I use, but the guys over at club lexus swear by it, so I'm going to give it a try. And I usually would never consider doing an extended drain, but everyone (at least on the internet) keeps telling me I can easily do it. This is somewhat new to me (looking up different brands of oil, etc), I'm a guy who used to put whatever I could find in my honda Accord. I've put 5w30, 10w30, diesel oil, synthetic, conventional...sometimes all of it at the same time. And for most of it's life it ran on Super Tech or bulk oil. It has 282k miles on it and it still runs pretty well.


Nope, I'm not sure what the previous owner used but I've been putting in Mobil 1 and Pennzoil for the past couple years with OEM filters. How much is the toyota 0w-20? If it's much more than $4 a quart I would just use something else, I can't imagine its THAT much better than any other top-shelf synthetic.

IMO as long as you keep up with the oil changes and other maintenance the brand you use isn't going to matter so much. Yes some will be better but as long as you stay within spec you are G2G. My uncle has a 84 toyota pickup and he treats it much the same way as you do with your accord. Gets an oil change once a year regardless of miles and he tops off with whatever he can find in the garage. I've seen him put in 20w-50, straight 40w, 0w-20, etc. Thing still runs smooth as ever and has half a million miles on it.
 
Originally Posted By: silvercivicsi
Originally Posted By: doublebase

Ok question for you, are you using the Toyota Synthetic 0w20 in it?

I usually don't care what brand of oil I use, but the guys over at club lexus swear by it, so I'm going to give it a try. And I usually would never consider doing an extended drain, but everyone (at least on the internet) keeps telling me I can easily do it. This is somewhat new to me (looking up different brands of oil, etc), I'm a guy who used to put whatever I could find in my honda Accord. I've put 5w30, 10w30, diesel oil, synthetic, conventional...sometimes all of it at the same time. And for most of it's life it ran on Super Tech or bulk oil. It has 282k miles on it and it still runs pretty well.


Nope, I'm not sure what the previous owner used but I've been putting in Mobil 1 and Pennzoil for the past couple years with OEM filters. How much is the toyota 0w-20? If it's much more than $4 a quart I would just use something else, I can't imagine its THAT much better than any other top-shelf synthetic.

IMO as long as you keep up with the oil changes and other maintenance the brand you use isn't going to matter so much. Yes some will be better but as long as you stay within spec you are G2G. My uncle has a 84 toyota pickup and he treats it much the same way as you do with your accord. Gets an oil change once a year regardless of miles and he tops off with whatever he can find in the garage. I've seen him put in 20w-50, straight 40w, 0w-20, etc. Thing still runs smooth as ever and has half a million miles on it.



Apparently you don't know about tgmo(toyota genuine motor oil) in the 0w-20 flavour.
So I'll inform you. It's a mobil product with a crazy high viscosity index,crazy high in moly,that's a friction modifier and is a very good product.
Around here we figure it's the unicorn tears that make it so good.
So please. If you don't know maybe become informed by asking rather than just assuming something.

Op
This guy doesn't know what he's talking about. TGMO is hellagood.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: silvercivicsi
Originally Posted By: doublebase

Ok question for you, are you using the Toyota Synthetic 0w20 in it?

I usually don't care what brand of oil I use, but the guys over at club lexus swear by it, so I'm going to give it a try. And I usually would never consider doing an extended drain, but everyone (at least on the internet) keeps telling me I can easily do it. This is somewhat new to me (looking up different brands of oil, etc), I'm a guy who used to put whatever I could find in my honda Accord. I've put 5w30, 10w30, diesel oil, synthetic, conventional...sometimes all of it at the same time. And for most of it's life it ran on Super Tech or bulk oil. It has 282k miles on it and it still runs pretty well.


Nope, I'm not sure what the previous owner used but I've been putting in Mobil 1 and Pennzoil for the past couple years with OEM filters. How much is the toyota 0w-20? If it's much more than $4 a quart I would just use something else, I can't imagine its THAT much better than any other top-shelf synthetic.

IMO as long as you keep up with the oil changes and other maintenance the brand you use isn't going to matter so much. Yes some will be better but as long as you stay within spec you are G2G. My uncle has a 84 toyota pickup and he treats it much the same way as you do with your accord. Gets an oil change once a year regardless of miles and he tops off with whatever he can find in the garage. I've seen him put in 20w-50, straight 40w, 0w-20, etc. Thing still runs smooth as ever and has half a million miles on it.



Apparently you don't know about tgmo(toyota genuine motor oil) in the 0w-20 flavour.
So I'll inform you. It's a mobil product with a crazy high viscosity index,crazy high in moly,that's a friction modifier and is a very good product.
Around here we figure it's the unicorn tears that make it so good.
So please. If you don't know maybe become informed by asking rather than just assuming something.

Op
This guy doesn't know what he's talking about. TGMO is hellagood.


Yes I read that it's made by Mobil and has the high moly pack in it, that's why I'm considering going for it. I'm able to get it for $60 a case, which equals to about $5 a quart. So that's basically what I'd be paying for mobil 1 at Walmart.

Right now I'm running nine quarts of Carquest 0w20 synthetic in it - which is basically Valvoline synthetic - but I'm not going to use it again because it has basically no moly or boron in it and relies heavily on a sodium additive for anti corrosion. I've got to say though my car seems to like it, I'm at 4000k miles on it and I haven't used a drop...been getting good gas mileage with it too.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy


Apparently you don't know about tgmo(toyota genuine motor oil) in the 0w-20 flavour.
So I'll inform you. It's a mobil product with a crazy high viscosity index,crazy high in moly,that's a friction modifier and is a very good product.
Around here we figure it's the unicorn tears that make it so good.
So please. If you don't know maybe become informed by asking rather than just assuming something.

Op
This guy doesn't know what he's talking about. TGMO is hellagood.



We know that between US and Canada the TGMO may not made by the same supplier. And if you get it bulk from the dealer, there is no telling what exactly you're getting. It may not even be 0w20 if the dealer is really shady. TGMO is also available in 5w20 and 5w30 viscosities.
Since TGMO is Toyota branded, their supplier choice will be driven primarily by cost. Just because one supplier makes it now, doesn't mean Toyota will stick with them. Regional availability and pricing play a major role as well, so TGMO in one place is not guaranteed to be the same as TGMO in another.

That is why there is no product data sheet for TGMO oils. Toyota does not want to commit itself to one supplier. And why would they?

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3334021/Who_makes_TGMO_0w20_in_Canada?
 
Did Toyota really recommend 5K OCIs for this application?
That seems really short, especially with nine quarts of oil in this smallish V-8.
I'd pay attention to what Toyota recommends for normal service, since your use of the car is by no means severe.
Does this high-zoot car lack an OLM?
If it does have an OLM, pay attention to it and use it as your guide to OCIs.
OTOH, after 400K with a healthy engine, it's hard to tell you not to continue doing what you've been doing.
These Toyota V-8s are awesome.
Land Crushers, along with their Lexus badged brothers seem to run forever and we even have a member here who still drives an eighties LS400 who pays no attention to oils used or OCIs and still has a good running engine after close to the miles you have on your car.
Maybe I should be looking for one of these rather than a Mercedes of similar vintage.
Not only cheaper than a Benz, but probably better cars mechnically.
 
My moms Elantra has a 4.5 quart sump and has a 1.8L engine. My Jeep has a 6 quart sump and has a 4.0 engine. Look at the math.. My engine is twice as big and only holds 1.5 quarts more. That's a huge sump for such a little car.

The normal service interval is 7500 miles on any SN GF5 oil. This should be easily obtainable if it sees enough high mileage. Heck, the new grand Cherokees with the Penastar 3.6 seem to be making it up towards 8000 miles with PYB before the OLM goes off.

Heck, the Ford 6.0 diesel holds 15 quarts of oil and the normal service interval is 7500 miles as well. The list goes on.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Did Toyota really recommend 5K OCIs for this application?
That seems really short, especially with nine quarts of oil in this smallish V-8.
I'd pay attention to what Toyota recommends for normal service, since your use of the car is by no means severe.
Does this high-zoot car lack an OLM?
If it does have an OLM, pay attention to it and use it as your guide to OCIs.
OTOH, after 400K with a healthy engine, it's hard to tell you not to continue doing what you've been doing.
These Toyota V-8s are awesome.
Land Crushers, along with their Lexus badged brothers seem to run forever and we even have a member here who still drives an eighties LS400 who pays no attention to oils used or OCIs and still has a good running engine after close to the miles you have on your car.
Maybe I should be looking for one of these rather than a Mercedes of similar vintage.
Not only cheaper than a Benz, but probably better cars mechnically.


I don't have 400k on the engine, I meant I have 4k on the OCI with the Carquest oil that I'm running in it now. My bad. Lol! I only have 85k miles on it.

And no I don't have an oil change monitor on it, I think they started adding those in 2010, but I'm not sure. Five thousand miles is the manufacturer recommendation.

And I would definitely consider the LS over a Benz of the same vintage. The LS is just more reliable...and with the LS you still get the power of an S class. I do think the S class would give you a quieter ride though, but it's tough to beat the overall quality of these cars. I looked at all the top luxury cars before buying this thing...A8, Mercedes, BMW, Infiniti, Cadillac...they all had their strong points, but none of them just worked as properly as the Lexus. I did love the A8 though.
 
Back in the 90's when our local Ford Falcon and Holden Commodore 6 cylinders went from 10,000km service intervals to 15,000km, the manufacturers increased their sump capacities by almost 1 litre, taking them up to around 6 litres.
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
My moms Elantra has a 4.5 quart sump and has a 1.8L engine. My Jeep has a 6 quart sump and has a 4.0 engine. Look at the math.. My engine is twice as big and only holds 1.5 quarts more. That's a huge sump for such a little car.

The normal service interval is 7500 miles on any SN GF5 oil. This should be easily obtainable if it sees enough high mileage. Heck, the new grand Cherokees with the Penastar 3.6 seem to be making it up towards 8000 miles with PYB before the OLM goes off.

Heck, the Ford 6.0 diesel holds 15 quarts of oil and the normal service interval is 7500 miles as well. The list goes on.


The Penastar engine is almost making it 8k miles on conventional oil? Interesting.
Well the whole purpose of this thread was to get an idea if I can extend my intervals past the 5k recommendation...I think I'll give it a try.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: silvercivicsi
Originally Posted By: doublebase

Ok question for you, are you using the Toyota Synthetic 0w20 in it?

I usually don't care what brand of oil I use, but the guys over at club lexus swear by it, so I'm going to give it a try. And I usually would never consider doing an extended drain, but everyone (at least on the internet) keeps telling me I can easily do it. This is somewhat new to me (looking up different brands of oil, etc), I'm a guy who used to put whatever I could find in my honda Accord. I've put 5w30, 10w30, diesel oil, synthetic, conventional...sometimes all of it at the same time. And for most of it's life it ran on Super Tech or bulk oil. It has 282k miles on it and it still runs pretty well.


Nope, I'm not sure what the previous owner used but I've been putting in Mobil 1 and Pennzoil for the past couple years with OEM filters. How much is the toyota 0w-20? If it's much more than $4 a quart I would just use something else, I can't imagine its THAT much better than any other top-shelf synthetic.

IMO as long as you keep up with the oil changes and other maintenance the brand you use isn't going to matter so much. Yes some will be better but as long as you stay within spec you are G2G. My uncle has a 84 toyota pickup and he treats it much the same way as you do with your accord. Gets an oil change once a year regardless of miles and he tops off with whatever he can find in the garage. I've seen him put in 20w-50, straight 40w, 0w-20, etc. Thing still runs smooth as ever and has half a million miles on it.



Apparently you don't know about tgmo(toyota genuine motor oil) in the 0w-20 flavour.
So I'll inform you. It's a mobil product with a crazy high viscosity index,crazy high in moly,that's a friction modifier and is a very good product.
Around here we figure it's the unicorn tears that make it so good.
So please. If you don't know maybe become informed by asking rather than just assuming something.

Op
This guy doesn't know what he's talking about. TGMO is hellagood.


Not saying it isn't good but when a vehicle sees ~2000 miles a year is that crazy high viscosity index and crazy high moly level going to really do anything? Plenty of UOA's with Mobil 1 and PP show great wear levels so I trust those products. Perhaps in a situation with higher miles driven or other factors (like OP) the TGMO may be better. OP simply asked me what I was using in the car and I responded.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
This is also why you'll see most German makes with long OCIs have fairly large oil sumps.

Here are some calculators for you to play with:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?...p=sharing#gid=0


I just used that calculator for my own car, and it suggests 6100 miles with easy driving which I don't do consistently. The internal OCI suggests 22,000 miles though. Could the truth be somewhere in between? I hope so as I'm changing the oil every 11000 miles, give or take...
 
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
This is also why you'll see most German makes with long OCIs have fairly large oil sumps.

Here are some calculators for you to play with:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?...p=sharing#gid=0


I just used that calculator for my own car, and it suggests 6100 miles with easy driving which I don't do consistently. The internal OCI suggests 22,000 miles though. Could the truth be somewhere in between? I hope so as I'm changing the oil every 11000 miles, give or take...


Your OCI has you going a lot of miles between changes, what type of car is it and do you know how it calculates oil indication? I'm not sure exactly how those things work yet, I imagine they all use different methods.
 
No idea what is used for the calculations, though DPF regenerations are definitely in there. I think it'll be mostly based on amount of fuel consumed.

It's the Italian Dodge Dart but with a Diesel engine and double clutch automatic.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alfa_Romeo_Giulietta_%28940%29

I don't get a clearanswer when I ask others when their oil change light comes on; either they've had an oil change but the garage didn't resetthe indicator or they only recently got thecar etc...
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top