brake pad ears . lube or not

[tmorris1]

The grease is not going to stay there for anywhere near the life of the pads. You do it on someone else's car only to avoid the potential of embarrassing squeaks as they leave your garage.

That is kinda my feeling as well. I Always make sure the slide pins are cleaned and lubed, and I put grease on the back of the pad and on some of the sliding surfaces, but I'm sure it get washed or worn off in a month or 2. When I replace them everything is dry except for the slide pins that are covered by rubber. Maybe it helps break in?

 

[doublebase]

I lube. If I don’t take apart every year, by year two its all frozen, then they wear down the friction fast—but with yearly lubing, they can last well past 100k.

I agree, but have you done a brake job on a Toyota? I see you have several in your signature - if you take apart Toyota brakes every year you’re a better man than me...I can’t stand doing Toyota brakes. Between the clips, those little spring clips that go into the pads...just a royal pain (IMO). And those spring clips that go into the pads themselves are there to prevent exactly what we’re trying to prevent (the pads freezing on the caliper bracket).

But I do agree, taking them apart once a year and lubing them would be helpful.

I own a Toyota, I don’t take them apart and lube them, but I drive a ton. This car never sits, and I think that’s why I haven’t had any issues yet, knock on wood.

 

[supton]

I agree, but have you done a brake job on a Toyota?

Only a few. This hybrid lacks the springs on the pads, I was surprised to see that—but gains these electric parking brakes which I think I now know how deal with.

Now my Tundra… ugh what a mess. I didn’t drive it much, let it go for two years, driving sporadically, and… no front brakes one day. No joke, the pads froze so hard they were not moving. Must have been an hour per side to hammer out. The design is supposed to make easier to do pad slaps, but, the pins swell, and there is so much pad ear surface…. The rears were easy but those 4 piston fronts, lots of power, but lots of work if I didn’t stay on top of them.

The 2011 Camry, I was starting to think about paying a shop to replace the rear dust shields. It‘s an easy grand I guess as the rear wheel bearings get destroyed in the process. (but it got wrecked instead) 11 years old and the dust shield basically fell off in my hands. 10 years is a long time here…

 

[The Critic]

This is only one example for one vehicle but I'll add it to the comments. It's the factory recommendation for maintenance from Nissan on their Frontier pickup product line. For slide pin lubrication they state to use "rubber grease". For the stainless steel pad retainers that the pads slide on they state to use Molykote 7439. I personally use Toyota rubber grease, P/N 08887-01206 because it's cheap and readily available. Molykote 7439, aka Molykote CU7439, is a copper infused anti-seize. I don't use the specific Molykote brand because of the price but I do use Permatex copper anti seize on my brake pad retainers.

View attachment 181496

I did exactly that on a Subaru - using the included CU-7439 - since that was what the service instructions specified. Subaru has since issued a TSB with different instructions.

I used a fine brush and applied an extremely thin coat as well.

After a few years in our climate, all of the pads are wearing somewhat unevenly....presumably due to the sticky nature of this product.

Subaru specifically calls out for lube on their hardware.

Not anymore - they have changed a bit.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10163525-0001.pdf

 

[FowVay]

Did Subaru define what they describe as "brake grease" in their TSB?

 

[ammolab]

Brembro brakes on my Chevy/Holden SS require grease where the pad ears contact the caliper.

 

[The Critic]

Did Subaru define what they describe as "brake grease" in their TSB?

That was clarified on page 1 of the linked document.

 

[Rand]

Not anymore - they have changed a bit.

So put it on the pad ears where they contact the hardware.. thats not much difference than on the hardware imo.
Its hasn't changed to a "dry" recommendation.

I think the recommendation is general. The areas people live in could affect the best practices.

Here you better clean them at least every other year or they are a mess no matter what.

 

[The Critic]

So put it on the pad ears where they contact the hardware.. thats not much difference than on the hardware imo.

It does. If you only put grease on the ears, only a very minimal amount ends up on the surface of the hardware.
They previously wanted you to lightly coat the entire hardware - and from my experience, that results in the pads not sliding very well once grit accumulates.

 

[Rand]

It does. If you only put grease on the ears, only a very minimal amount ends up on the surface of the hardware.
They previously wanted you to lightly coat the entire hardware - and from my experience, that results in the pads not sliding very well once grit accumulates.

must be why I have to clean mine every 2 years. Oem usually last about 3 winters before they start sticking.

I've never subscribed to the lightly coat the hardware not needed on chromed or stainless... now the bracket underneath.. yep.

Your painted hardware looks about how much I put on under the clips. I also probably use too much on my pad ears for a california car.
The pastelub I use is more uh.. pasty than grease too.
its near antisieze thickness but drier... if that makes any sense.

Pastelub™ Synthetic Hi-Temp Brake Lubricant | BPL-2400

Pastelub High-Temp Lubricant from Goodson is OE recommended and won't melt, rub or wash off brake parts. No silicone or petroleum products.

goodson.com

If you ever move to Ohio I know who I'd call for brakes.. I detest brakes but if you have the right tools and youtube for some tips...not so hard.