My 2010 MDX has finally started burning oil at 93k. Thought I was going to be one of the lucky ones but no dice. I am going to clean engine according to a process used with some success by other MDX owners. My local BG distributor is closed today (snow) so I will ask a question here. BG says to add 109 to cold engine but I have read that adding to hot engine gives better results. What is your experience? Thanks.
BG 109 EPR
- Thread starter artbuc
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BrendanC
$100 site donor 2024
I’ve used EPR many times. Go for a drive and get the engine nice and hot. Dump the EPR in, run at 2k rpm for 20 minutes then dump the oil hot. Wear gloves, you do not want EPR on your skin.
I would probably do a piston soak first and then do the BG oil cleaner thing.
I would do it hot.
I would do it hot.
This is a good method here. Good luck OP, it seems some chase this issue with multiple flushes/soaks etc to no avail. On the other side, a guy claimed his MDX stopped burning after MMO in oil and Lucas UCL in the tank(incidentally at same time). Hope the 109 is all you need!
Thx. Acura extended warranty but at the time I was not burning enough to qualify for the rebuild. Seems like it just took off in last 4-5 months. I like to keep cars at least 15-20 years. This is killing me because otherwise it is perfect.
I am concerned about causing major engine damage so will probably do first flush exactly per instructions.
I am concerned about causing major engine damage so will probably do first flush exactly per instructions.
PCV changed at all?
Just did a couple weeks ago. Old one was working, new one did not help. Honda charges $45 for my PCV valve.
HPL EC30 for a couple rounds. Check the threads with pictures. I have some in my posts.
BG EPR is very good also. I posted about that also. I'd rather a slower cleaner that gets the carbon out. My pics of EC30 filters are AFTER doing BG EPR the year before. I didn't and don't have much burning issues prior to the flushes. Just wanted to clean up more.
If you don't have VCM disabled, do that as it keeps the cylinders from shutting down. PCV change also as mentioned.
BG EPR is very good also. I posted about that also. I'd rather a slower cleaner that gets the carbon out. My pics of EC30 filters are AFTER doing BG EPR the year before. I didn't and don't have much burning issues prior to the flushes. Just wanted to clean up more.
If you don't have VCM disabled, do that as it keeps the cylinders from shutting down. PCV change also as mentioned.
If it were my car I would just skip over all the other stuff and start with a Berryman’s B12 piston soak.
I have also done it this way.
The stuff works
Shorten your OCI to keep the rings clean.
I would take another approach, and this is if I wanted to do this BG 109 EPR, and this is from what I have seen others do.
1) Go out and get the cheapest 10W-30 oil or 10W-40, hey even 15W-40, also get a new oil filter.
2) Take your car out for a drive and come back and change your oil and oil filter.
3) Put in your cheap oil of your choice and after the engine has gotten hot, add your BG109 EPR
4) Run it for 20 minutes at 2000 rpms and then change your oil.
Why am I saying to use new oil and a new oil filter, you can see if this product really works, and I think this product works better with new oil versus old oil. All the naysayers that say this BG 109 EPR does not work, change your oil, and with new oil run it for 20 minutes at 2000 rpms and then drain the oil and see what it looks like. Then get some new oil and add this BG 109 EPR and run it for 20 minutes, and drain the oil and see what it looks like.
The engine restore guru on MDX forum starts with Liquid Moly 2037 on old oil for 20 minute idle, then start EPR on clean oil and fresh filter. He also adds EPR to hot oil. I am sure BG has a good reason for recommending cold oil, will find out tomorrow.
You could do a chem tool b12 piston soak with current fill first then run the epr cleaner on same oil for 20min before dumping. That way you don’t have to waste$$ dumping a lot of oil. No need too use fresh oil for the cleaning IMO.
Piston soak and use a leakdown tester to force all of the chemical into the rings.
Seems to be a lot of positive experience with piston soak. I have EPR on order so will do that first. If clogged oil rings are the problem, I should see some improvement. Based on results I will do piston soak.
On a V6, how do you get B12 around entire circumference? I do not have a leak down tester. Can’t I just install spark plugs and turn engine over by hand?
On a V6, how do you get B12 around entire circumference? I do not have a leak down tester. Can’t I just install spark plugs and turn engine over by hand?
I wouldn’t crank it with the plugs in, even by hand.
As far as getting it around the entire circumference you’ll probably get a lot of transport by capillary action, but if it were me I would tilt or lean the car as far as I could to get one bank near vertical, then swap sides and do the other one.
It works I always it use new oil and filter.
If I have to piston soak, I will do one cylinder at a time when it is at the bottom of its stroke.
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