Is he some previously banned troll?
Are thinner oils about fuel economy or tighter engines?
- Thread starter ZZman
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It doesn't. The same volume gets there at the same amount of time but at a lower pressure unless you are below the pour point. Engine oil pumps are fixed volume per revolution (other than variable pumps that often just have a bypass solenoid to allow some of the oil to flow back to the sump instead of through the engine, but even those "pump" the same amount regardless of viscosity).
Tolerances has nothing to do with it.
Let's ignore tolerances and clearances because M1 EP 10W-30 is on "price reduction" sale at Wal-Mart.
It says 20K miles
... I dump mine at 7500 miles. Not too thin, not too thick, low vm & Noack. Buy it.
If you don't have a hot running engine like a turbo especially the little ones or pulling heavy loads (trucks, etc.) or very high rpm (racing or burning rubber, teenagers, etc.), you most likely don't need a 40. And 0W is for Alaska and Canada winters. Stay away unless needed.
disclosure:
I've bought some Castrol & M1 Euro 0W-40 here and there mainly because I wanted a good 40 and they had very good sale prices.
It says 20K miles
... I dump mine at 7500 miles. Not too thin, not too thick, low vm & Noack. Buy it.If you don't have a hot running engine like a turbo especially the little ones or pulling heavy loads (trucks, etc.) or very high rpm (racing or burning rubber, teenagers, etc.), you most likely don't need a 40. And 0W is for Alaska and Canada winters. Stay away unless needed.
disclosure:
I've bought some Castrol & M1 Euro 0W-40 here and there mainly because I wanted a good 40 and they had very good sale prices.
None of which changes clearances, which are based on engineering and some basic physics.
Unless aluminum and iron have different coefficients of expansion than they did in the past…
Fine screens for the VVT stuff.
To add ...
1) Engine parts clearances have basically been the same for 50+ years. I've compared bearing clearance specs and they really aren't any tighter now then 50+ years ago. They can only go so tight before a journal bearing will over heat from having too small a clearance, which can result in too small a MOFT, and that can cause metal-to-metal contact, and even more heating and eventual failure ... maybe catastrophic, like a rod through the block. A too tight journal bearing will smoke itself way faster than a too loose journal bearing.
2) As has been shown many times, regardless of bearing clearance, a thicker oil will always result in more MOFT to keep moving parts better separated.
3) The main purpose of thinner oil on the KV100 side is to create less shear drag and therefore give a bit better fuel economy, which is mainly driven by ever increasing CAFE fuel economy reqirements. And it comes with the risk of some increased long term wear, depending on the use conditions (ie, towing, high loads, high speed or track use, etc) of the vehicle vs the oil viscosity and oil temperature.
This stuff has been hashed over in every "thin vs thick" thread, lol.
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I run 0w20 in my Caravan in Louisiana. Oils today are chosen for efficiency.
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So how big do you think oil molecules are?
For those claiming the ever tighter and tighter tolerances, do you know what GD&T is?
It is about fuel economy as well as what's adequate for an engine in typical use for its typical life.
We all know that really worn out engines will still run and move the metal down the road.
We also all know that 200K is a realistic life for a typical vehicle, since most drivers are reasonable with maintenance and not BITOG level OCD.
We further all know that there is nowhere in our country where you can go very fast for very long.
We can surmise that manufacturers recommend oil grades that will improve fuel economy while still providing for 200K durability as we typically use cars in the US.
Finally, we all know that if you track a car or highway tow then a thicker grade might be wise regardless of the typical use grade the manufacturer recommends.
For typical use I'm pretty sure that nobody is opposed to better fuel economy.
We all know that really worn out engines will still run and move the metal down the road.
We also all know that 200K is a realistic life for a typical vehicle, since most drivers are reasonable with maintenance and not BITOG level OCD.
We further all know that there is nowhere in our country where you can go very fast for very long.
We can surmise that manufacturers recommend oil grades that will improve fuel economy while still providing for 200K durability as we typically use cars in the US.
Finally, we all know that if you track a car or highway tow then a thicker grade might be wise regardless of the typical use grade the manufacturer recommends.
For typical use I'm pretty sure that nobody is opposed to better fuel economy.
I say both
Just do the experiment. Some funnels come with a screen in them, or use a paint filter, start with a low viscosity like water. Then use some nice thick gear oil. Then come back here and tell me which flows better through a fine mesh screen. I think its more the Molecules spacing than what their size is, when talking viscosity. Maybe others that are more knowledgeable can touch on that.
Mmmmmm bonus tolerance
A balancing act!
Does this mean we should use thinner beer/oil when clearance is reduced and then back to thicker beer/oil when clearance has increased?
I guess it depends on your tolerance for light beer/oil.
I settle for:
Beer with good chips.
Oil with good HTHS/MOFT.
Gravity is not a positive displacement oil pump.
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