Another "best" oil filter

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New engine - BBC - I'd be all over a Napa Gold with a magnetic drain plug in the pan and a filter mag.

The issue here is not micron sized particles, it is actual shed metal, machining debris, etc. You need a tough filter and an oversized one will not hurt anything if you used a lot of assembly paste. But it will be on there for what, 500 miles? Or maybe 3 dyno pulls?

I'd be much more concerned with having the valve covers loose and popping them off quick to make sure the push rods were all spinning, than worry about which filter ...
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Originally Posted By: Motorking
Mike,
Did the engine builder block off the filter bypass in the engine block? If so, do not make mistake of using any oil filter that does not have a bypass built into the filter can. You risk collapsing the filter as it fills with break in material. All Standard GM filters from ANY filter companies do not have bypass valves in then BC GM puts it in the engine block. It has been a long standing (and very misguided) modification to block off this bypass. It's fine to do so if you run a FRAM HP4 or WIX Racing filter as they both have bypass valves in them bc both companies are well aware of this stupid mod. Good luck, sounds like a [censored] boat.


Wow, learn something new every day. I'll have to call the builder tomorrow and find out. I had already decided on Wix filters for the initial break in, 25-30 min at varying speeds. As others have said the first one is to keep the larger chunks away from the engine, I expect the amsoil filters after will be adequate. Especially since I get them at a discounted price
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The Wix 51515 has a 8-11 psi bypass, so guess I'm good to go.
 
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Originally Posted By: Mike Thompson
The Wix 51515 has a 8-11 psi bypass, so guess I'm good to go.


Just don't do any high engine revs until the oil is at full operating temperature. That will ensure the bypass valve will not open up. If the engine also has a bypass valve in the block, and if it's set lower than the filter then it will open first.
 
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