Amsoil SS 5w30 (new formula) 1.5T Honda 4554mi
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Originally Posted By: Mainia
Originally Posted By: Danh
While we’re always cautioned about reading too much in UOA wear metals, this looks really good. And it also supports the notion that modest (e.g.
Out of curiosity, how are you handling the possible warranty issue using a non-approved viscosity? I’d love to switch my Honda products to 5w-30 but can’t get over the worry that receipts that show the wrong grade could cause trouble.
If you live in the USA that would not be a problem with the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. Most turbos call for 5-30 or 5-40. 5-20 is ONLY being usedto meet CAFE standards so you can get that .00005 extra mile per gallon and it has NOTHING to do with engine wear and longevity. My 2018 Hyundai Kona AWD 1.6 turbo calls for 5w-30. All Audi's call for 0w to 5w 40. There is some issue not going to far only because SOME cars are sensitive to thicker oil with their adjustable cam timing that in all cases retards timing so it is on the safe side. So really going to 5w 30 is a win win for this fuel absorbing oil system.
Iirc, the Magnuson-Moss Act says that you do not have to use a manufacturer’s branded product to maintain the warranty, but allows OEMs to specify fluids types. So, while Honda can’t mandate the use of Honda motor oil, they can specify the oil type and viscosity. If this were not true, an owner could use straight weight, non-detergent motor oil of any weight and not jeopardize their warranty.
In the case of Honda’s 1.5T Engine, afaik 0w-20is the viscosity spec world-wide, so it isn’t just a U.S. thing. Honda’s Customer Service team can be absolute jerks to deal with and, in the event of oil-related engine failure could absolutely deny a claim if your oil change documentation showed 5w-30 instead of 0w-20. Now maybe they wouldn’t and maybe they couldn’t prevail, but fighting such a decision would take months of time I’d rather not spend.
Originally Posted By: Danh
While we’re always cautioned about reading too much in UOA wear metals, this looks really good. And it also supports the notion that modest (e.g.
Out of curiosity, how are you handling the possible warranty issue using a non-approved viscosity? I’d love to switch my Honda products to 5w-30 but can’t get over the worry that receipts that show the wrong grade could cause trouble.
If you live in the USA that would not be a problem with the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. Most turbos call for 5-30 or 5-40. 5-20 is ONLY being usedto meet CAFE standards so you can get that .00005 extra mile per gallon and it has NOTHING to do with engine wear and longevity. My 2018 Hyundai Kona AWD 1.6 turbo calls for 5w-30. All Audi's call for 0w to 5w 40. There is some issue not going to far only because SOME cars are sensitive to thicker oil with their adjustable cam timing that in all cases retards timing so it is on the safe side. So really going to 5w 30 is a win win for this fuel absorbing oil system.
Iirc, the Magnuson-Moss Act says that you do not have to use a manufacturer’s branded product to maintain the warranty, but allows OEMs to specify fluids types. So, while Honda can’t mandate the use of Honda motor oil, they can specify the oil type and viscosity. If this were not true, an owner could use straight weight, non-detergent motor oil of any weight and not jeopardize their warranty.
In the case of Honda’s 1.5T Engine, afaik 0w-20is the viscosity spec world-wide, so it isn’t just a U.S. thing. Honda’s Customer Service team can be absolute jerks to deal with and, in the event of oil-related engine failure could absolutely deny a claim if your oil change documentation showed 5w-30 instead of 0w-20. Now maybe they wouldn’t and maybe they couldn’t prevail, but fighting such a decision would take months of time I’d rather not spend.
Patman
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Gubkin
Sample 1 ?
Sample 2 ?
Sample 3 ?
Why are you angry?
Sample 1 ?
Sample 2 ?
Sample 3 ?
Why are you angry?
Originally Posted By: Danh
Originally Posted By: Mainia
Originally Posted By: Danh
While we’re always cautioned about reading too much in UOA wear metals, this looks really good. And it also supports the notion that modest (e.g.
Out of curiosity, how are you handling the possible warranty issue using a non-approved viscosity? I’d love to switch my Honda products to 5w-30 but can’t get over the worry that receipts that show the wrong grade could cause trouble.
If you live in the USA that would not be a problem with the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. Most turbos call for 5-30 or 5-40. 5-20 is ONLY being usedto meet CAFE standards so you can get that .00005 extra mile per gallon and it has NOTHING to do with engine wear and longevity. My 2018 Hyundai Kona AWD 1.6 turbo calls for 5w-30. All Audi's call for 0w to 5w 40. There is some issue not going to far only because SOME cars are sensitive to thicker oil with their adjustable cam timing that in all cases retards timing so it is on the safe side. So really going to 5w 30 is a win win for this fuel absorbing oil system.
Iirc, the Magnuson-Moss Act says that you do not have to use a manufacturer’s branded product to maintain the warranty, but allows OEMs to specify fluids types. So, while Honda can’t mandate the use of Honda motor oil, they can specify the oil type and viscosity. If this were not true, an owner could use straight weight, non-detergent motor oil of any weight and not jeopardize their warranty.
In the case of Honda’s 1.5T Engine, afaik 0w-20is the viscosity spec world-wide, so it isn’t just a U.S. thing. Honda’s Customer Service team can be absolute jerks to deal with and, in the event of oil-related engine failure could absolutely deny a claim if your oil change documentation showed 5w-30 instead of 0w-20. Now maybe they wouldn’t and maybe they couldn’t prevail, but fighting such a decision would take months of time I’d rather not spend.
I have been told by Redline that local dealers have tried to deny warranty from use of their non API oil but never from the manufacture. Once they pushed the Magnusen-Moss Warranty Act to have the dealer prove it was the oil, the dealer had a hard time proving it was the oil and it stopped there. Never the manufacture.
I think it would not take much when backed by an oil engineer and common logic of training a jury simple oil principles. With a Honda 1.5 turbo's massive fuel dilution problems, that going to a 5w-30 would induce a failure or even going to a 0w-40 of a top level oil like Redline or Amsoil Signature Series that the ADDED boundary layer strength would ONLY be a PLUS PLUS. With the Amsoil Sig Series that has more AW Phosphorous and is the only reason it did not pass API. NOW if you have ATF or non detergent oil yes ...you have a warranty issue and I bet the manufacture would come after that. Using high end boutique engine oil is not an issue from my research. Using cheap non-API private labeled oil from "Chip's Food and Fuel" you do have an issue. There also have be car manufacture mechanics on different forums that say they never denied the motor because of motor oil other then if they see RED as it being ATF or if it smells like Hypoid gear oil. Some take a sample to save but it never gets sent out and they just replace the motor.
That's fine, it's your car, do what you feel is right. I will take the risk on what I feel is right. Especially me with my manufacture were on a Hyundai that has been rumored to have thin big end rods that need a thick boundary layer of oil to stop spinning a bearing on a crank-to-rod bearing hit or rub.
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Originally Posted By: Mainia
Originally Posted By: Danh
While we’re always cautioned about reading too much in UOA wear metals, this looks really good. And it also supports the notion that modest (e.g.
Out of curiosity, how are you handling the possible warranty issue using a non-approved viscosity? I’d love to switch my Honda products to 5w-30 but can’t get over the worry that receipts that show the wrong grade could cause trouble.
If you live in the USA that would not be a problem with the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. Most turbos call for 5-30 or 5-40. 5-20 is ONLY being usedto meet CAFE standards so you can get that .00005 extra mile per gallon and it has NOTHING to do with engine wear and longevity. My 2018 Hyundai Kona AWD 1.6 turbo calls for 5w-30. All Audi's call for 0w to 5w 40. There is some issue not going to far only because SOME cars are sensitive to thicker oil with their adjustable cam timing that in all cases retards timing so it is on the safe side. So really going to 5w 30 is a win win for this fuel absorbing oil system.
Iirc, the Magnuson-Moss Act says that you do not have to use a manufacturer’s branded product to maintain the warranty, but allows OEMs to specify fluids types. So, while Honda can’t mandate the use of Honda motor oil, they can specify the oil type and viscosity. If this were not true, an owner could use straight weight, non-detergent motor oil of any weight and not jeopardize their warranty.
In the case of Honda’s 1.5T Engine, afaik 0w-20is the viscosity spec world-wide, so it isn’t just a U.S. thing. Honda’s Customer Service team can be absolute jerks to deal with and, in the event of oil-related engine failure could absolutely deny a claim if your oil change documentation showed 5w-30 instead of 0w-20. Now maybe they wouldn’t and maybe they couldn’t prevail, but fighting such a decision would take months of time I’d rather not spend.
I have been told by Redline that local dealers have tried to deny warranty from use of their non API oil but never from the manufacture. Once they pushed the Magnusen-Moss Warranty Act to have the dealer prove it was the oil, the dealer had a hard time proving it was the oil and it stopped there. Never the manufacture.
I think it would not take much when backed by an oil engineer and common logic of training a jury simple oil principles. With a Honda 1.5 turbo's massive fuel dilution problems, that going to a 5w-30 would induce a failure or even going to a 0w-40 of a top level oil like Redline or Amsoil Signature Series that the ADDED boundary layer strength would ONLY be a PLUS PLUS. With the Amsoil Sig Series that has more AW Phosphorous and is the only reason it did not pass API. NOW if you have ATF or non detergent oil yes ...you have a warranty issue and I bet the manufacture would come after that. Using high end boutique engine oil is not an issue from my research. Using cheap non-API private labeled oil from "Chip's Food and Fuel" you do have an issue. There also have be car manufacture mechanics on different forums that say they never denied the motor because of motor oil other then if they see RED as it being ATF or if it smells like Hypoid gear oil. Some take a sample to save but it never gets sent out and they just replace the motor.
That's fine, it's your car, do what you feel is right. I will take the risk on what I feel is right. Especially me with my manufacture were on a Hyundai that has been rumored to have thin big end rods that need a thick boundary layer of oil to stop spinning a bearing on a crank-to-rod bearing hit or rub.
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Originally Posted By: parshisa
Very true on fighting honda in case something goes south. Although, wouldn’t the UOA be the proof that lubricant was doing the job and failure has nothing to do with the viscosity?
It could help, but if you didn’t have UOAs for every OCI it could be argued any damage occurred during one of the undocumented ones.
I submitted a series of UOAs to Honda to argue my fuel dilution case. Was told to go away. So I don’t think UOAs have much credibility with them. Or they’re just difficult to deal with...
Very true on fighting honda in case something goes south. Although, wouldn’t the UOA be the proof that lubricant was doing the job and failure has nothing to do with the viscosity?
It could help, but if you didn’t have UOAs for every OCI it could be argued any damage occurred during one of the undocumented ones.
I submitted a series of UOAs to Honda to argue my fuel dilution case. Was told to go away. So I don’t think UOAs have much credibility with them. Or they’re just difficult to deal with...
Originally Posted By: parshisa
Yep. I still remeber the look service manager gave me when I showed him UOA with fuel dilution numbers...
Well at least he could act well he knew it was happening before you even showed him if he was worth his weight in farts.
Yep. I still remeber the look service manager gave me when I showed him UOA with fuel dilution numbers...
Well at least he could act well he knew it was happening before you even showed him if he was worth his weight in farts.
Originally Posted By: Mainia
Originally Posted By: Danh
Originally Posted By: Mainia
Originally Posted By: Danh
While we’re always cautioned about reading too much in UOA wear metals, this looks really good. And it also supports the notion that modest (e.g.
Out of curiosity, how are you handling the possible warranty issue using a non-approved viscosity? I’d love to switch my Honda products to 5w-30 but can’t get over the worry that receipts that show the wrong grade could cause trouble.
If you live in the USA that would not be a problem with the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. Most turbos call for 5-30 or 5-40. 5-20 is ONLY being usedto meet CAFE standards so you can get that .00005 extra mile per gallon and it has NOTHING to do with engine wear and longevity. My 2018 Hyundai Kona AWD 1.6 turbo calls for 5w-30. All Audi's call for 0w to 5w 40. There is some issue not going to far only because SOME cars are sensitive to thicker oil with their adjustable cam timing that in all cases retards timing so it is on the safe side. So really going to 5w 30 is a win win for this fuel absorbing oil system.
Iirc, the Magnuson-Moss Act says that you do not have to use a manufacturer’s branded product to maintain the warranty, but allows OEMs to specify fluids types. So, while Honda can’t mandate the use of Honda motor oil, they can specify the oil type and viscosity. If this were not true, an owner could use straight weight, non-detergent motor oil of any weight and not jeopardize their warranty.
In the case of Honda’s 1.5T Engine, afaik 0w-20is the viscosity spec world-wide, so it isn’t just a U.S. thing. Honda’s Customer Service team can be absolute jerks to deal with and, in the event of oil-related engine failure could absolutely deny a claim if your oil change documentation showed 5w-30 instead of 0w-20. Now maybe they wouldn’t and maybe they couldn’t prevail, but fighting such a decision would take months of time I’d rather not spend.
I have been told by Redline that local dealers have tried to deny warranty from use of their non API oil but never from the manufacture. Once they pushed the Magnusen-Moss Warranty Act to have the dealer prove it was the oil, the dealer had a hard time proving it was the oil and it stopped there. Never the manufacture.
I think it would not take much when backed by an oil engineer and common logic of training a jury simple oil principles. With a Honda 1.5 turbo's massive fuel dilution problems, that going to a 5w-30 would induce a failure or even going to a 0w-40 of a top level oil like Redline or Amsoil Signature Series that the ADDED boundary layer strength would ONLY be a PLUS PLUS. With the Amsoil Sig Series that has more AW Phosphorous and is the only reason it did not pass API. NOW if you have ATF or non detergent oil yes ...you have a warranty issue and I bet the manufacture would come after that. Using high end boutique engine oil is not an issue from my research. Using cheap non-API private labeled oil from "Chip's Food and Fuel" you do have an issue. There also have be car manufacture mechanics on different forums that say they never denied the motor because of motor oil other then if they see RED as it being ATF or if it smells like Hypoid gear oil. Some take a sample to save but it never gets sent out and they just replace the motor.
That's fine, it's your car, do what you feel is right. I will take the risk on what I feel is right. Especially me with my manufacture were on a Hyundai that has been rumored to have thin big end rods that need a thick boundary layer of oil to stop spinning a bearing on a crank-to-rod bearing hit or rub.
.
Yes, with enough time and resources you could probably get someone (arbitrator, jury...) to agree the issue was not with the oil’s viscosity. But again, it takes a lot time and money, so I’d rather not risk it. Terry Dyson, for one, will appear as an expert witness for an individual. But I suspect his time ain’t cheap.
OEM dealers are evaluated by warranty claims compared to the norm and if their experience is substantially worse than equivalent dealers there are consequences. So, it’s not too surprising some dealers used the lack of Redline API approval (or any other excuse) as a reason to deny claims. Did Redline tell you what happened to these claims? Did corporate over-rule or was the consumer stuck? Either way, it does show that not using the specified fluids has at least the potential to make your life more difficult. Ymmv.
Originally Posted By: Danh
Originally Posted By: Mainia
Originally Posted By: Danh
While we’re always cautioned about reading too much in UOA wear metals, this looks really good. And it also supports the notion that modest (e.g.
Out of curiosity, how are you handling the possible warranty issue using a non-approved viscosity? I’d love to switch my Honda products to 5w-30 but can’t get over the worry that receipts that show the wrong grade could cause trouble.
If you live in the USA that would not be a problem with the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. Most turbos call for 5-30 or 5-40. 5-20 is ONLY being usedto meet CAFE standards so you can get that .00005 extra mile per gallon and it has NOTHING to do with engine wear and longevity. My 2018 Hyundai Kona AWD 1.6 turbo calls for 5w-30. All Audi's call for 0w to 5w 40. There is some issue not going to far only because SOME cars are sensitive to thicker oil with their adjustable cam timing that in all cases retards timing so it is on the safe side. So really going to 5w 30 is a win win for this fuel absorbing oil system.
Iirc, the Magnuson-Moss Act says that you do not have to use a manufacturer’s branded product to maintain the warranty, but allows OEMs to specify fluids types. So, while Honda can’t mandate the use of Honda motor oil, they can specify the oil type and viscosity. If this were not true, an owner could use straight weight, non-detergent motor oil of any weight and not jeopardize their warranty.
In the case of Honda’s 1.5T Engine, afaik 0w-20is the viscosity spec world-wide, so it isn’t just a U.S. thing. Honda’s Customer Service team can be absolute jerks to deal with and, in the event of oil-related engine failure could absolutely deny a claim if your oil change documentation showed 5w-30 instead of 0w-20. Now maybe they wouldn’t and maybe they couldn’t prevail, but fighting such a decision would take months of time I’d rather not spend.
I have been told by Redline that local dealers have tried to deny warranty from use of their non API oil but never from the manufacture. Once they pushed the Magnusen-Moss Warranty Act to have the dealer prove it was the oil, the dealer had a hard time proving it was the oil and it stopped there. Never the manufacture.
I think it would not take much when backed by an oil engineer and common logic of training a jury simple oil principles. With a Honda 1.5 turbo's massive fuel dilution problems, that going to a 5w-30 would induce a failure or even going to a 0w-40 of a top level oil like Redline or Amsoil Signature Series that the ADDED boundary layer strength would ONLY be a PLUS PLUS. With the Amsoil Sig Series that has more AW Phosphorous and is the only reason it did not pass API. NOW if you have ATF or non detergent oil yes ...you have a warranty issue and I bet the manufacture would come after that. Using high end boutique engine oil is not an issue from my research. Using cheap non-API private labeled oil from "Chip's Food and Fuel" you do have an issue. There also have be car manufacture mechanics on different forums that say they never denied the motor because of motor oil other then if they see RED as it being ATF or if it smells like Hypoid gear oil. Some take a sample to save but it never gets sent out and they just replace the motor.
That's fine, it's your car, do what you feel is right. I will take the risk on what I feel is right. Especially me with my manufacture were on a Hyundai that has been rumored to have thin big end rods that need a thick boundary layer of oil to stop spinning a bearing on a crank-to-rod bearing hit or rub.
.
Yes, with enough time and resources you could probably get someone (arbitrator, jury...) to agree the issue was not with the oil’s viscosity. But again, it takes a lot time and money, so I’d rather not risk it. Terry Dyson, for one, will appear as an expert witness for an individual. But I suspect his time ain’t cheap.
OEM dealers are evaluated by warranty claims compared to the norm and if their experience is substantially worse than equivalent dealers there are consequences. So, it’s not too surprising some dealers used the lack of Redline API approval (or any other excuse) as a reason to deny claims. Did Redline tell you what happened to these claims? Did corporate over-rule or was the consumer stuck? Either way, it does show that not using the specified fluids has at least the potential to make your life more difficult. Ymmv.
They said nothing became of them. How do you just say out of thin air it was the oils fault, when clearly you are running far better oil and viscosity isn't a engine killer. Redline said it came back as material failure, not oil failure. Seems to me Honda FAILS on keeping viscosity within spec. Seems we need to ban them from even saying a word about anything since their FAILED on keeping viscosity in line with their own spec. Some cars are running 5W-50 oil. While I would never pass the 0w/5w- 40 spec with my asian cars engine builders that builds/tuner regularly run 5w=40 oil in all thehotrodable cars with no issues.
I think all this fear based Dogma of warranty claims about oil when using high end quality oil is plain FUD Dogma, at least in the USA. You guys in Canada are screwed because you don't have the MMWA to stop the manufactures from throwing out the "sweeping generality" of "sorry you voided warranty" and that's that. No SORRY YOU voided your own warranty by going GDI turbo and making a fuel bath of oil in my Honda oil pan.( Your oil pan) Sorry your bad design of GDI and turbo combo alone with your obvious horrible fuel mapping has caused this dilution problem that can be somewhat de-elevated by upping viscosity. Also add life long walnut blasting warranty, because EVERY manufacture has known for the last 3 years that a dual injector per cylinder completely solves the intake carbon issue in it's tracks, yet they still don't add the second injector as Ford and Toyota/Lexus has on some/most of their products. Class action lawsuit on that warranty failure.
As far as oil expert to court, I just don't see it , nor do Redline and Amsoil otherwise they would not put that warranty on their oil as a rider. Just FUD and Dogma from the merry-go-round of car forums of FUDsters and "by the manual FUDsters."
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I think all this fear based Dogma of warranty claims about oil when using high end quality oil is plain FUD Dogma, at least in the USA. You guys in Canada are screwed because you don't have the MMWA to stop the manufactures from throwing out the "sweeping generality" of "sorry you voided warranty" and that's that. No SORRY YOU voided your own warranty by going GDI turbo and making a fuel bath of oil in my Honda oil pan.( Your oil pan) Sorry your bad design of GDI and turbo combo alone with your obvious horrible fuel mapping has caused this dilution problem that can be somewhat de-elevated by upping viscosity. Also add life long walnut blasting warranty, because EVERY manufacture has known for the last 3 years that a dual injector per cylinder completely solves the intake carbon issue in it's tracks, yet they still don't add the second injector as Ford and Toyota/Lexus has on some/most of their products. Class action lawsuit on that warranty failure.
As far as oil expert to court, I just don't see it , nor do Redline and Amsoil otherwise they would not put that warranty on their oil as a rider. Just FUD and Dogma from the merry-go-round of car forums of FUDsters and "by the manual FUDsters."
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Mania - I agree. The only oil-based argument I could ever see a dealship making is there was very little/none in the engine or it was so far past it’s OCI that there was black sludge at the time of they examined it.
This idea that an engine with what appears to be a normal volume of servicable oil in it that happens to have some failure will lead to a dealership interrogation of which viscosity was used or was it SN+ certified is silly IMO. They simply have no way of telling and either one of those as a cause of failure has such an astronomically low probability of being the cause compared to material defect that I just don’t see it ever being an issue.
This idea that an engine with what appears to be a normal volume of servicable oil in it that happens to have some failure will lead to a dealership interrogation of which viscosity was used or was it SN+ certified is silly IMO. They simply have no way of telling and either one of those as a cause of failure has such an astronomically low probability of being the cause compared to material defect that I just don’t see it ever being an issue.
Originally Posted By: PWMDMD
Mania - I agree. The only oil-based argument I could ever see a dealship making is there was very little/none in the engine or it was so far past it’s OCI that there was black sludge at the time of they examined it.
This idea that an engine with what appears to be a normal volume of servicable oil in it that happens to have some failure will lead to a dealership interrogation of which viscosity was used or was it SN+ certified is silly IMO. They simply have no way of telling and either one of those as a cause of failure has such an astronomically low probability of being the cause compared to material defect that I just don’t see it ever being an issue.
Last I’ll say on this subject is that a dealership doesn’t have to “interrogate” the oil’s viscosity, it is visible on any and all receipts supporting oil changes. But again, if you’re comfortable with the exposure, go for it.
Mania - I agree. The only oil-based argument I could ever see a dealship making is there was very little/none in the engine or it was so far past it’s OCI that there was black sludge at the time of they examined it.
This idea that an engine with what appears to be a normal volume of servicable oil in it that happens to have some failure will lead to a dealership interrogation of which viscosity was used or was it SN+ certified is silly IMO. They simply have no way of telling and either one of those as a cause of failure has such an astronomically low probability of being the cause compared to material defect that I just don’t see it ever being an issue.
Last I’ll say on this subject is that a dealership doesn’t have to “interrogate” the oil’s viscosity, it is visible on any and all receipts supporting oil changes. But again, if you’re comfortable with the exposure, go for it.
There’s really no point in using anything but signature series if i go with Amsoil. Both OE and XL are regular group 3 hydrocracked oil, at least they were in previous formulation. TBN/noack are no different from any off the sh of D1G2. Correct me if I’m wrong
Originally Posted By: parshisa
There’s really no point in using anything but signature series if i go with Amsoil. Both OE and XL are regular group 3 hydrocracked oil, at least they were in previous formulation. TBN/noack are no different from any off the sh of D1G2. Correct me if I’m wrong
Agreed. I see no point in using those at that price. They're not superior to M1 or PUP.
There’s really no point in using anything but signature series if i go with Amsoil. Both OE and XL are regular group 3 hydrocracked oil, at least they were in previous formulation. TBN/noack are no different from any off the sh of D1G2. Correct me if I’m wrong
Agreed. I see no point in using those at that price. They're not superior to M1 or PUP.
Originally Posted By: Danh
Originally Posted By: PWMDMD
Mania - I agree. The only oil-based argument I could ever see a dealship making is there was very little/none in the engine or it was so far past it’s OCI that there was black sludge at the time of they examined it.
This idea that an engine with what appears to be a normal volume of servicable oil in it that happens to have some failure will lead to a dealership interrogation of which viscosity was used or was it SN+ certified is silly IMO. They simply have no way of telling and either one of those as a cause of failure has such an astronomically low probability of being the cause compared to material defect that I just don’t see it ever being an issue.
Last I’ll say on this subject is that a dealership doesn’t have to “interrogate” the oil’s viscosity, it is visible on any and all receipts supporting oil changes. But again, if you’re comfortable with the exposure, go for it.
I had arguments with "you" attorneys. So worried that "law" will be used when the MMWA clearly protects the user in so so many cases. I have a relative who I just talked to last night who has worked at the largest Audi dealer in Minnesota. In 10 years he has worked there they NEVER have pulled a oil sample or questioned oil in an Audi motor that blow up. Again they FIRST thing they check, is it car oil, not ATF or not gear oil. If it looks like car oil it gets warrantied no questions asked, and they never pull oil samples.
Also I checked out my 2018 Hyundai Kona 1.6T and it is speced for 5w-30 and in their writings in the owners manual they wrote 5w-40is ok if 5w-30 is not available. MEANING full approval on 5w-40 to use, as it logically should. Most high perf car from Europe and some from the USA use it because it is better for high perf use case even without a turbo. The Honda 1.5 T is high perf. I bet if we look at the owners manual we would see the words if no 5-20 can be optained 5w-30 can be used and again that means FULL approval for use. Still it is a moot point since they will never reject because of 5-30 use in a 5-20 car. That is PURE FUD FUD FUD FUD.
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Originally Posted By: PWMDMD
Mania - I agree. The only oil-based argument I could ever see a dealship making is there was very little/none in the engine or it was so far past it’s OCI that there was black sludge at the time of they examined it.
This idea that an engine with what appears to be a normal volume of servicable oil in it that happens to have some failure will lead to a dealership interrogation of which viscosity was used or was it SN+ certified is silly IMO. They simply have no way of telling and either one of those as a cause of failure has such an astronomically low probability of being the cause compared to material defect that I just don’t see it ever being an issue.
Last I’ll say on this subject is that a dealership doesn’t have to “interrogate” the oil’s viscosity, it is visible on any and all receipts supporting oil changes. But again, if you’re comfortable with the exposure, go for it.
I had arguments with "you" attorneys. So worried that "law" will be used when the MMWA clearly protects the user in so so many cases. I have a relative who I just talked to last night who has worked at the largest Audi dealer in Minnesota. In 10 years he has worked there they NEVER have pulled a oil sample or questioned oil in an Audi motor that blow up. Again they FIRST thing they check, is it car oil, not ATF or not gear oil. If it looks like car oil it gets warrantied no questions asked, and they never pull oil samples.
Also I checked out my 2018 Hyundai Kona 1.6T and it is speced for 5w-30 and in their writings in the owners manual they wrote 5w-40is ok if 5w-30 is not available. MEANING full approval on 5w-40 to use, as it logically should. Most high perf car from Europe and some from the USA use it because it is better for high perf use case even without a turbo. The Honda 1.5 T is high perf. I bet if we look at the owners manual we would see the words if no 5-20 can be optained 5w-30 can be used and again that means FULL approval for use. Still it is a moot point since they will never reject because of 5-30 use in a 5-20 car. That is PURE FUD FUD FUD FUD.
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Originally Posted By: parshisa
There’s really no point in using anything but signature series if i go with Amsoil. Both OE and XL are regular group 3 hydrocracked oil, at least they were in previous formulation. TBN/noack are no different from any off the sh of D1G2. Correct me if I’m wrong
Agreed, I always cocktail my oil with 1 Qt of Redline to get more Ester in there, but since this is a turbo motor and Hyundai's have had LOTS of motor design issue and have been known to deny warranty on the "best warranty in the business" too many times. I will stick with one oil company and will not cocktail, so I have the backing of Amsoil if I smoke my motor. If I cocktail they will be of no help and so won't Redline. Once warranty is off I will be back to my cocktailing with adding 1 Qt of Redline to get more Ester in. As far as full Redline I will give it a test for one change and see if I get high iron or other metal that always accompanies Redline it seems. I need to wait for 20,000 miles to have a fully balance wear metals pattern with Amsoil.
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There’s really no point in using anything but signature series if i go with Amsoil. Both OE and XL are regular group 3 hydrocracked oil, at least they were in previous formulation. TBN/noack are no different from any off the sh of D1G2. Correct me if I’m wrong
Agreed, I always cocktail my oil with 1 Qt of Redline to get more Ester in there, but since this is a turbo motor and Hyundai's have had LOTS of motor design issue and have been known to deny warranty on the "best warranty in the business" too many times. I will stick with one oil company and will not cocktail, so I have the backing of Amsoil if I smoke my motor. If I cocktail they will be of no help and so won't Redline. Once warranty is off I will be back to my cocktailing with adding 1 Qt of Redline to get more Ester in. As far as full Redline I will give it a test for one change and see if I get high iron or other metal that always accompanies Redline it seems. I need to wait for 20,000 miles to have a fully balance wear metals pattern with Amsoil.
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