5w40?

[geeman789]

Originally Posted by D1dad
... The car is mint so I don't wanna cause mechanical issues but I'm giving this car to my college son who probably won't be as diligent about checking the oil ...


Life lesson here ...

Give car to son. Show him how to check oil, and when to add oil. Tell him to check oil ONCE A WEEK. Let him know that failure to do so could KILL the car. Send him on his way.

If he fails to follow these instructions and grenades the engine, he will not have a car. We can't hold their hands forever ...

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted by DGXR
If they replaced the CVT under warranty, then I assume the whole powertrain is still under warranty.
Nissans have a 10 year warranty on the CVT tranny specifically and 5 years on the engine. They do seem to be a problem item on a lot of Nissans. (I had a CVT act strange on an Altima rental a couple of years ago, for one example. The rental place, Hertz, said it happens a lot with Altima CVTs.)

You can use Castrol 0w40 from walmart, kinda cheap for what it is. High performance stuff. Or Mobil1 0w40 there at walmart too. Try that and maybe it'll help.
Think of it this way: You're adding a quart every 1500 to 2000 miles, so you don't need to change the oil entirely until 20,000 miles or 2 years, whichever comes first. Be sure to use a Fram Ultra 20,000-mile oil filter if you do that. You're renewing the additive package very often already.

 

[racin4ds]

Originally Posted by benjy
girlfriends 13 malibu 2.5L DI engine is similar, the spec 20 was a joke 30 was better for a while, but at almost 60 thou it was getting worse. so i went to a 5-40 euro + it greatly improved. all oils typical fake synthetic using mostly group 3 highly refined crude oil. DI engines are harder on oil + frequent changes as you do are good as oil is a LOT less than engines. many owners trade often + care less whats "sleeping" in their engines at trade in. many of the cars in usa are spec with 20 water but in europe they use 5-40 quite often as long life trumps the 1/4 mpg from thin oils.


How dare you say that here! The thin oil crowd will burn you at the stake!

OP- Time to teach your kid what its like to be an adult. The car is older and needs the maintenance. He doesn't heed your warning and check it regularly, guess whos without a car?

Heck I'm surprised you got a new Nissan to live that long, since joining with Renault, they are hands down the biggest pieces of garbage on the road and I used to love Nissan. After owning a 2012 new and a 2013 I'll never step foot in another.

 

[D1dad]

Definetely not. No smell or puddles and I just had it up on a hoist for cv shaft and no residue anywhere.

 

[D1dad]

Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
Originally Posted by DGXR
If they replaced the CVT under warranty, then I assume the whole powertrain is still under warranty.
Nissans have a 10 year warranty on the CVT tranny specifically and 5 years on the engine. They do seem to be a problem item on a lot of Nissans. (I had a CVT act strange on an Altima rental a couple of years ago, for one example. The rental place, Hertz, said it happens a lot with Altima CVTs.)

You can use Castrol 0w40 from walmart, kinda cheap for what it is. High performance stuff. Or Mobil1 0w40 there at walmart too. Try that and maybe it'll help.
Think of it this way: You're adding a quart every 1500 to 2000 miles, so you don't need to change the oil entirely until 20,000 miles or 2 years, whichever comes first. Be sure to use a Fram Ultra 20,000-mile oil filter if you do that. You're renewing the additive package very often already.



Yep. Cvt out of nowhere started howling last summer coming home from St. Louis. Nissan extended the warranty to 10 years or a 120k. I'll try some 0 or 5w40. Really nothing to lose if it won't hurt anything else.

 

[D1dad]

I
Originally Posted by benjy
girlfriends 13 malibu 2.5L DI engine is similar, the spec 20 was a joke 30 was better for a while, but at almost 60 thou it was getting worse. so i went to a 5-40 euro + it greatly improved. all oils typical fake synthetic using mostly group 3 highly refined crude oil. DI engines are harder on oil + frequent changes as you do are good as oil is a LOT less than engines. many owners trade often + care less whats "sleeping" in their engines at trade in. many of the cars in usa are spec with 20 water but in europe they use 5-40 quite often as long life trumps the 1/4 mpg from thin oils.

I agree. My 03 was speced for 5 or 10-30 and I ran 10-30, mostly Mobil 1 in it and never saw a difference in fuel economy or cold Ohio winter starts.

 

[D1dad]

One thing I forgot to mention, although I don't know if it means much of anything. After I change the oil, it uses nothing for the first 1k miles. After that it's 1/4 of a quart every 500 or so.

 

[Astro_Guy]

I'd like to second the nomination for a 10w-30 High Mileage. I ran the Volvo in my signature for 3 years and 45k miles on M1 0w-40. Last fall it's oil consumption increased pretty dramatically, albeit still just 1 quart in 5000 miles. I switched to M1 10-w30 High Mileage two months back, and the oil level is holding steady so far. Not an apples to apples comparison since there have been no long distance high speed highway miles, but the initial data is encouraging.

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted by D1dad
Yep. Cvt out of nowhere started howling last summer coming home from St. Louis. Nissan extended the warranty to 10 years or a 120k. I'll try some 0 or 5w40. Really nothing to lose if it won't hurt anything else.
Give Nissan credit for doing right by the owners. Ford had a bizarre transmission with their Focus & Fiesta dual dry-clutch "PowerShift" tranny, some people left the "f" out of the Shift part, and AFAIK, they never extended the warranty, they just hired 200 more lawyers to tick customers off even more.

 

[D1dad]

Yeah Nissan was great about it. I took it over to the closest dealer, mechanic drove it and they installed a new cvt the next day @96k on the car. My car is mint with a new tranny and honestly drives like the day I bought it. Just the dam oil usage that's been there from the beginning. What [censored] me off is manufactures say a quart every 1k is acceptable. My buddy bought a bmw 530 and the gave him a six pack of oil in between changes free of charge.

 

[D1dad]

Originally Posted by Astro_Guy
I'd like to second the nomination for a 10w-30 High Mileage. I ran the Volvo in my signature for 3 years and 45k miles on M1 0w-40. Last fall it's oil consumption increased pretty dramatically, albeit still just 1 quart in 5000 miles. I switched to M1 10-w30 High Mileage two months back, and the oil level is holding steady so far. Not an apples to apples comparison since there have been no long distance high speed highway miles, but the initial data is encouraging.



Ok, I'm not a know all about oil, but why would a 10-30 burn less than a 5-30? Aren't they ultimately the same thing after they warm up?

 

[geeman789]

A 5w30 will usually start with a thinner base oil to meet cold flow requirements, with more VII (viscosity index improver ... temperature sensitive molecules that help oil resist thinning) added to minimize thinning at high temps. A 10w30 will typically start with a thicker base oil, and need less VII to maintain its hot viscosity. A 10w30 is usually more stable, less likely to shear down (get thinner) with use, and will usually have a lower NOACK ( very high temperature evaporation loss ) percentage number than a similar 5w30.

Note my choice of words ... typically and usually. Every oil brand is different, and one brand can have a number of different " flavours ... " of the same grade oil.

So, yes, a 10w30 theoretically COULD have less consumption than a 5w30 ... depends on a variety of factors though.

 

[D1dad]

Originally Posted by geeman789
A 5w30 will usually start with a thinner base oil to meet cold flow requirements, with more VII (viscosity index improver ... temperature sensitive molecules that help oil resist thinning) added to minimize thinning at high temps. A 10w30 will typically start with a thicker base oil, and need less VII to maintain its hot viscosity. A 10w30 is usually more stable, less likely to shear down (get thinner) with use, and will usually have a lower NOACK ( very high temperature evaporation loss ) percentage number than a similar 5w30.

Note my choice of words ... typically and usually. Every oil brand is different, and one brand can have a number of different " flavours ... " of the same grade oil.

So, yes, a 10w30 theoretically COULD have less consumption than a 5w30 ... depends on a variety of factors though.



Thanks. This sounds like what my car may need. The fact that the car uses no oil for the first 1k plus miles has always led me to believe that the engine was extremely hard on the oil. I'm due for an oil change so I'm gonna give a 10w30 a try.

 

[D1dad]

I have a case of 10w30 peak full synthetic laying around that I use for lawnmowers. Any issue with using peak? I always use Bosch premium filters which I stock up on when menards has the 11% sale. The wife's rogue uses the same filter so it's always made sense.

 

[ka9mnx]

Originally Posted by D1dad

Ok, I'm not a know all about oil, but why would a 10-30 burn less than a 5-30? Aren't they ultimately the same thing after they warm up?

Because (using M1 HM 10w-30) he went from a HTHS @3.0 (5w-30) to a HTHS 3.5 oil.

 

[ka9mnx]

Also, he went from a V@100C = 10.5-11.0 to a V@100C = 12.1 oil. The HM oil is "thicker" for ring seal.

 

[aquariuscsm]

Originally Posted by D1dad
Ok, I'm not a know all about oil, but why would a 10-30 burn less than a 5-30?


Stronger,more robust base oil.

 

[D1dad]

Originally Posted by ka9mnx
Also, he went from a V@100C = 10.5-11.0 to a V@100C = 12.1 oil. The HM oil is "thicker" for ring seal.



I'm not trying to be a dumb [censored] here, I just really wanna understand this, which I think I do. Back in the old days we used 10-30 on everything and never had oil related failures. I understand that engine clearances are much tighter, that being said would a much thicker oil like M1 HM cause other issues? I can deal with the consumption and have for years, I just don't wanna fix one issue and have a much worse one pop up?

 

[D1dad]

I e got some delo diesel oil, 10-30 laying around. The kind that ford won't give the ok to use in the power strokes. I believe it has the SN in the starburst symbol

 

[Snagglefoot]

A true Bitogger will know the KV100 of the oil they use. It's readily available In the VOA section of this forum. Just knowing the grade is not enough information.