The guy is just aimlessly trolling at this point.In terms of lubrication of the crankshaft and rods, the soft component is the journal bearings. What's that got to do with oil burning?
5w-30 for new Honda 3.5L v6
- Thread starter rbk777
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Yep ... the film thickness changes as the piston/rod assembly goes through it's 4-cycles and the pressure on the oil film increases and decreases. The oil film is essentially acting like a cushion against those dynamic loads. Rod bearings see a lot more of this than the crankshaft bearings, and that's why rod bearings take more abuse and fail before crank bearings. Also, as the oil becomes thinner, the MOFT is much more likely to go to zero somewhere in those 4-cycles.
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SammyChevelleTypeS3
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4WD
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An entire website about it ?
of those often very "hated" boutique oils like Amsoil, Shaeffer's and HPL. Thanks for great belly laugh!!! Both of our cars are not worth $50,000 together.
No - not really. We thinks that what you get for your $ vs off the shelf stuff is marginal, except under certain circumstances.
We thinks that almost all oil, blended by any major manufacturer, is good oil.
Most of us even thinks that any weight between 0W-20 and 15W-40 is going to run just fine in almost any gasoline engine.
Most of us look at data posted here by people who run HPL and say "dang, that really might be the best one out there", but we look at "really fantastic oil" for $5 a quart (less if you coupon shop) and then look at "super fantastic oil" for $16.50, we go with the one that's 1/3 the price and is ALMOST as good.
As a caveat, I'll list a circumstance. if I bought a vehicle that I knew was kinda gunked up, based on the data I see here, I would probably run a sump full of the super fantastic stuff to let it do it's thing - it cleans like all get out. But honestly, if I knew the engine was kind of gunked up in the first place, unless it was a fabulous deal, I'd probably not buy that vehicle.
Lots of folks here call oil a hobby. That's cool. I don't get it, but I don't get pokemon or that weird anime my stepdaughter likes either.
PS - Amsoil is also great oil. Schaeffer's used to be, but I don't know if it still is. It probably is. Wish @BOBISTHEOILGUY was still around. He could tell us.
Since PD pump (godfather of thin vs. thick flow rates) and M1 0W-40 (godfather of manly oils) have been discussed in this thread ... lol, I am now curious if the RPM also increases (jumps up a little automatically) when the VCM or the cylinder deactivation mechanism is activated (shutting down some cylinders)? Don't mean to hijack but it is kind of related to the heat topic.
I don't remember the RPMs ever changing when my Hondas have engaged VCM. Honestly, most of the time, the only reason you could tell was because the Eco light would light up on the dashboard.
The VCM system is known to cause significant fuel dilution in these vehicles. Ask yourself why the computer is set for 5k mile oci’s when most newer cars are 10k-15k mile oci’s. By using a 30wt you are giving yourself a cushion as the oil becomes thinner due to fuel dilution. Starting with a 30wt @ 10cst that becomes a 20wt @ 8cst after 5k miles is much better than starting with an 8cst that dilutes down to 6cst. 20wt’s are recommended solely for CAFE purposes. As many have said look up your vehicle oil specifications in other countries and you will see what oil weight the engine was designed for 
The J35 Honda V6s do not have any issues with fuel dilution and it is certainly not caused by VCM. VCM causes other issues. The Honda 1.5 turbo DI engines do have an issue with fuel dilution but they do not have VCM.The VCM system is known to cause significant fuel dilution in these vehicles. Ask yourself why the computer is set for 5k mile oci’s when most newer cars are 10k-15k mile oci’s. By using a 30wt you are giving yourself a cushion as the oil becomes thinner due to fuel dilution. Starting with a 30wt @ 10cst that becomes a 20wt @ 8cst after 5k miles is much better than starting with an 8cst that dilutes down to 6cst. 20wt’s are recommended solely for CAFE purposes. As many have said look up your vehicle oil specifications in other countries and you will see what oil weight the engine was designed for
Still worth checking UOA before making any decisions.
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Wife and I didn't notice anything on the 1,500 mile journey back when buying our van.
Just curious: why so many people are scared by fuel dilution? Nothing to worry about, IMO. In reasonable amount, of course.The VCM system is known to cause significant fuel dilution in these vehicles. Ask yourself why the computer is set for 5k mile oci’s when most newer cars are 10k-15k mile oci’s. By using a 30wt you are giving yourself a cushion as the oil becomes thinner due to fuel dilution. Starting with a 30wt @ 10cst that becomes a 20wt @ 8cst after 5k miles is much better than starting with an 8cst that dilutes down to 6cst. 20wt’s are recommended solely for CAFE purposes. As many have said look up your vehicle oil specifications in other countries and you will see what oil weight the engine was designed for
When car starts, thinner and diluted oil is a best thing that you can dream about: it reaches all corners of the engine much faster than without being diluted. When engine get warmer, fuel just evaporates from the oil. So no dilution on normal conditions.
Did I miss something?
P.S. In my youth when no multigrade oil was available, gas truck drivers used to add few ounces of gas to the crankcase in the winter. Since usual winter temperature in my home city was/is -15-20C, this makes perfect sense.
Anything above 2-3% is considered high in the industry. Fuel dilution lowers viscosity and could result excessive wear.
Anatoly,
IMO, even being diluted for 3-4% oil is still thicker that at 100 C. So how can it make any harm? Fuel will be evaporated *before* oil reaches operating temperature.
Not always, did not help in my case after 40min drive and fuel dilution still 5%.
No. It's not about dreaming the oil "reaches all corners of the engine". It's about the MOFT in the bearings. There is zero benefit to diluted oil, from reduced film thickness to degradation of the VM.
Cold starting viscosity is represented by the winter rating. You no longer have to live in the days of diluted fuel to get acceptable cranking and pumpability.
Never mentioned 20 grade oils. I mentioned 0wXX and VIIs, because it’s widely known that a super high VI (especially those 200+) have much higher Noack results; it’s not quite, but nearly linear increase as VI increases. Higher volatility = higher amount of oil mist in PCV system = more propensity for IVD.
I doubt we’ll see much sanctioned testing on that front, since I’m willing to bet cheap VIIs are less expensive than good base oils.