Originally Posted by P10crew
Cline you prefer the bushed method.... could you post more about that. are you saying that when I replace this I should get a reman bushed or new?
More questions
For this application will the stock hard parts hold 500-600 hp or should I upgrade if so would you please post what stock parts should be upgraded ?
When you say dual feeding are you doing this by leaving off the second seal ring or is there more to it than that ?
There is a small oring in the back of the case that seals to an oil passage in the tail housing. I dug it out of its land but looks like it may have been a bonded ring to the orifice plug. I have the new orifice from gm but it doesn't have the oring on it. Is this oring going to be in the rebuild kit or do I need to order it separately?
Could you please post up what Sonnax and Transgo parts I will need get?
The high energy kits at wit look like they are not BW. do you have a brand preference for frictions and bands ?
Kolene steels or stock?
will I likely need the transgo 48-ACT-TL kit?
Do I want scarf cut seal rings or the uncut?
What method or tool are you using to pull all of the various bushings from their bores?
For the bushing kit and bonded pistons do I need to specify a certain brand?
Are the center support and 4th clutch bolts from WIT ok or from another supplier ?
Thanks
A reconditioned "Bushed" forward drum is a MUCH cheaper option than a new OE drum.
The Input/Turbine shaft can become unstable at @550 tq, Though some live at 750 tq......Horsepower doesn't break hard parts. Torque, Weight & Shock DOES.
CK Performance Input Shaft.....
HERE
A billet Forward Hub is not needed for your application.....But I highly recommend rollerizing between the Hub & Direct Drum.......
*If you have a lathe & can find a Ford AXOD Bearing part# E6DZ-7F404-A.....You can rollerize your stock Forward Hub! The bearing has long been discontinued by Ford & NOS stock has about dried-up from me & other builders buying all we can get a hold of!
*If you want to simply buy your way into a rollerized Hub.....
HERE
You will need the Orificed Cup Plug with a seal!.....A new one will be included in a aftermarket seal(Paper & Rubber) kit. New 4th Clutch Housing & Center Support bolts will also be included in this kit & seem as good as OE.
CK Performance MASTER SHIFT RECALIBRATION kit
HERE Includes.....
*Aluminum TH400 Direct Piston, Wider clutch work surface that is much superior than a Bonded Steel piston, Better support for High Rate Return Springs that are also included.
*High Rate Intermediate Clutch Return Springs & TH400 style spring retainer plate. The flimsy 4L80E retainers are known to distort so much it makes contact with the Intermediate Sprag retainer.
*HD Intermediate Clutch snap ring....Prevents snap-ring & case lug blow out.
*Output Rollerize components.
*New Water-Jet cut separator plate with 3rd & 4th Accumulator passages deleted.
*3rd & 4th Accumulator delete support plate.
*Self-Lubricating trust washer for between the 2 rear carriers.
*Fluted Bushing for the Overdrive Carrier Sun-Gear for better lubrication.
*Instructions on Dual Feeding & Lube-to-line Bypass included!
TransGo 48-ACT-TL is what I use on EVERY 4L80E I build, Too bad you have to buy 6 valve kits to get the tool kit. But, Yes I recommend you renew the Actuator Feed Limit bore!
This unit is just fine with regular steel plates, The only thing I use Kolene Steels on is the 3-4 Clutch on 700R4/4L60E units.
Borg Warner High Energy is what I prefer, WIT likes to push Raybestos & Exedy friction modules.....Don't let them do that! Insist on a Borg Warner Module!!!! Picture of a module I bought from WIT below.
*Sonnax part# 4L80E-LB1
*Sonnax part# 34200-05K.....Fits PR Valve bore & TCC valve bores.
*Sonnax part# 34994-17K.....End Plug for the AFL Filter, Replace the filter with the new one in the seal kit.
*Sonnax part# 34994-01K.....Drop-in TCC Regulator Valve.
*Sonnax part# 34006-SP.......OPTIONAL, Drive in Backwards from the instructions with Loctite Red on the OD, Locates the shims & bearing without measuring the reveal on the TH400 busing included in the CK calibration kit.
The OE bonded pistons are made by National, All the aftermarket ones are as well.
OE Bushings are made buy Federal Mogul, You would have to buy them individually from a dealer.....The Seal Aftermarket branded ones sold in a kit by WIT are pretty good! Clevite kits used to be readily available....Haven't seen them in a few years now.
I have machined a lot of my own bushing installers on a lathe for outside what can be done with universal bushing knocker tool kits. The long Center Support Bushing is really the only bushing that requires a special installer.
The use of a Arbor Press helps A LOT!